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Thread: Dual battery, s

  1. #21
    Expert coop's Avatar
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    Righto, thanks guy's I'll keep you posted

  2. #22
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    i used a battery link kit and it worked awesome. i got it cheap at autobarn on sale..

    also i used a optima yellow top. but if i could do it again i would go full river.. higher CCA, cheaper and bigger capacity for the same money.

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    coop (24th December 2014)

  4. #23
    Expert coop's Avatar
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    G, day all, I've finally decided on the redarc bc/dc 1225 and an optima yellow top mounted in my draws as I think this will be the best position close to the fridge, so thanks for all of your advice. Cheers guy's.

  5. #24
    Advanced Flex's Avatar
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    One thing you need to consider is the loads that will be running off your second battery. If you are running device which pull more than 25A (the 1225 maximum output current) your battery will never charge or will very slowly as the BCDC1225 can't give out enough current.
    For example my second battery runs my amplifier, head unit and fridge, which on average draws around 20-25A so with BCDC1225 there would be no current left to charge the battery. Also the BCDC1225 will reduce it's output current if the ambient temperature goes above 55 degrees C which can happen if mounted under the bonnet on a hot day.

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    coop (9th January 2015)

  7. #25
    Expert coop's Avatar
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    Maybe I should go with the 1240 ?

  8. #26
    Patrol Guru Rock Trol's Avatar
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    If you are running the fridge, charging phone/laptop and LED lighting off the rear battery then the 1225 would be enough. A 1240 will charge quicker though. Have you decided what do you want to use the battery for? It might just be cheaper and simpler to put a wet cell under the bonnet with a normal VSR. It would save heaps of money and still be the most versatile option as you can use as starter, help with winching, big amp etc.

    I have a redarc 1220 and Dekka AGM battery under the bonnet. It has worked well for the last couple of years but I am noticing the battery does not seem to hold a charge as well as it used to. Will monitor the situation, but unless I get 5-6 years out of the battery then it was not a cost effective way to go. I would have been a lot better off staying with the VSR and lead acid battery set up that the car had when I bought it.
    Last edited by Rock Trol; 11th January 2015 at 05:07 PM.

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    coop (12th January 2015)

  10. #27
    Expert coop's Avatar
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    It's mainly going to operate the fridge, led lights and a 300w inverter, im not running a winch at the moment but am looking at fitting one in the future so I might look at an under bonnet option when i get one. Thanks for the advice guys. Cheers Tony.

  11. #28
    CERTIFIABLY INSANE Drewboyaus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock Trol View Post
    If you are running the fridge, charging phone/laptop and LED lighting off the rear battery then the 1225 would be enough. A 1240 will charge quicker though. Have you decided what do you want to use the battery for? It might just be cheaper and simpler to put a wet cell under the bonnet with a normal VSR. It would save heaps of money and still be the most versatile option as you can use as starter, help with winching, big amp etc. I have a redarc 1220 and Dekka AGM battery under the bonnet. It has worked well for the last couple of years but I am noticing the battery does not seem to hold a charge as well as it used to. Will monitor the situation, but unless I get 5-6 years out of the battery then it was not a cost effective way to go. I would have been a lot better off staying with the VSR and lead acid battery set up that the car had when I bought it.

    AGM's typically don't like under bonnet installation.

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

    1997 GQ Patrol RX, TB42E. Mods: OME 2" lift, 33" BFG KM2'S, ARB winch bar & reconditioned X9 Superwinch, IPF 900 spotties HID conversion, ARB side steps and scrub bars, Kaymar rear step & spare wheel carrier & jerry holder, Rear 55W LED worklight, Safari Snorkel, 147L LRA tank, Extended diff breathers, dual batteries, GME UHF, Home built drawer and fridge slide, ARB 60L fridge.

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  13. #29
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flex View Post
    One thing you need to consider is the loads that will be running off your second battery. If you are running device which pull more than 25A (the 1225 maximum output current) your battery will never charge or will very slowly as the BCDC1225 can't give out enough current.
    For example my second battery runs my amplifier, head unit and fridge, which on average draws around 20-25A so with BCDC1225 there would be no current left to charge the battery. Also the BCDC1225 will reduce it's output current if the ambient temperature goes above 55 degrees C which can happen if mounted under the bonnet on a hot day.
    You cant just say your applications are drawing 25A and the 1225 is to small.
    The fridge for example may draw a maximum of 5a/h but how many amps per hour?? Might have a duty cycle of 20% so in reality it's only 1a/h.. (example only)
    Same with amplifiers. They state maximum amp draw. If your only listening to soft music the draw will be much less.

    Anyway imo the ctek 1225 is a good choice with a good battery, mounted in the back.
    I wouldn't worry about dual battery while winching, you winch with motor running so the alternator is doing most the work..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

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    coop (12th January 2015)

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