This might be a veeeeery long shot, but I used to have a company car that had the same symptoms, turned out the brake light switch running from the pedal was wearing prematurely and intermittantly sticking in the "on" position, fooling the engine management system into thinking I had my foot on the brakes, when it happened it'd cut power so you'd hit the accelerator and it'd feel like it was running on one pot.
Meticulously going through all of the connectors in the loom may be your best bet. Also the 'Knockometer" method might work in this case. Tapping the handle of a screwdriver on components and wiring loom. In a perfect world, it would be excellent to do that while the car was on a dyno, as you could see if there was a change. (we used to do that on locomotives on load test and it worked in many hard to fix cases).
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
Hey mate, no I haven't. But I'll take that onboard. The problem is, if something is broken, then why does it drive ridiculously good sometimes. One would think it would be a slug all the time. I've tried all the surface bits, like full NADS, Egr blocked, new intercooler, new MAF's, cleaned MAF's, new air filter, new fuel filter.... List goes on.
Haven't driven it for 3rd day now and my blood pressure is normal now. Don't intend to, while I ponder what to do, whilst consulting with the finance minister.
2005 TD42TI
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______ 2017 D-Max _______
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growler2058 (21st May 2014), Hodge (21st May 2014), Stropp (22nd May 2014), Winnie (21st May 2014)
Hodge (21st May 2014)
Well I dropped the gq off to Patrolapart this morning.
Lets just say it has to spend the night there.
I've been treating it like poo and neglecting it for a few years and the list of things is quite extensive....lol
Cracked engine mounts to bearings to radius arms to the nylons and much more...
It's getting a small makeover and I promised myself to look after it from now on...bahaha