Engine Number to Voltage

[the ferret]

The thing is Lionel, does yours have a rod or a cable?, rod is 24 and cable is 12v, but if it's 12v it would most likely have a turbo!
Cheers the ferret.

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret, Rodney and Others,

Here are some photographs showing some more detail of what I have got to work with. Can anyone let me know if I am missing any parts. The first photograph is of either the remnants of a slide or a cable control?

Is there anything I am missing off the throttle control on the inlet manifold - apart from the air cleaner & pre-cleaner?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

Sadly there is no sign of a turbo ever being fitted. The previous owner was a mechanic so he may have already done a complete 24 volt to 12 volt conversion. Since the vehicle was a deceased estate it is a bit hard to contact the previous owner to ask what work was done on the motor.

Oh buying the vehicle was one of those sight unseen spur of the moment eBay purchases. You know the type where you put on a single bid and hope someone comes along and outbids you - well no one did. Perhaps they were more clever than I was!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

While I was taking photographs I thought I would take some of how the seat box has to be modified so the smaller 4WD/2WD transfer case lever (?) has to be freed from the current seating arrangement. Is that tube on top of the gearbox meant to look like it has been cut off as standard or is something else missing from it?

All the fun of the fair hey!

My goal is to get the vehicle able to move around my paddock under its own propulsion while being able to change gears. Other things like brakes, gauges and other road worthy concerns are all minor elements at the moment. At this stage the only wiring I will do is to be able to get the engine started and be able to turn it off.

My main objective is to have the motor and gearbox splashing oil around internally so things do not deteriorate any further. Plus the clutch working properly. Hopefully I am not too late to do this. I am not sure when the engine last turned over so it will be interesting.

Rodney since you have Land Rover experience do you think that the clutch master cylinder of a Land Rove Series 3 would be sufficient in capacity to handle the Nissan SD33 clutch? It looks like the previous owner was going to use it - maybe he never got around to converting it over? Who knows???

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

Injector pump control rod missing, Dash pot (vacuum controlled) missing from bracket next to inlet.
I would be hoping the inside of injector pump is better than the outside, and that as it has a metal oil filler cap( Not plastic ) this motor seems to have come from a big wooden ship that a bloke named Noah built to transport animals quite some time ago!!.
Cheers, the ferret.

EDIT, unless this thing was kept in a shed, I would be pulling the drain plugs to check for water, any water in the box and it's all over yellow rover.

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

Thank you for the reply. I found another link to the Edic Motor and this time the bloke gives a commentary of the positions.

I did not know that Noah was so advanced. I thought he only had paddles or maybe a treadmill the animals used to turn a propeller!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApntvoWVh_M

Apart from being the same vintage as Noah do you have any idea of the year of manufacture of the motor from what the photographs show? I sent an email to Nissan Australia and contacted some dealers with the engine number and they have not got back to me as yet.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[the ferret]

Hi Lionel,
From what I can see, this is a very early SD33 NA., about 1980, the gearbox is not Nissan as is the transfer, the clutch could be anything, I'd say the Rover master cylinder would do the job with a Nissan slave.
By the looks I doubt if the fuel primer will work, never know tho.
The oil filler cap seems to be from a L28 or P40 petrol motor.
Does the motor turn by hand?
As you say, the history of the motor and what was done to it is lost forever, I wish my Ancestors from 1645 had made notes, it would help so much with my tree lol.
Carry on regardless, ( rewardless )
Cheers, the ferret.

[Lionelgee]

Hello The Ferret,

Going back to 1645 with your Family Tree is a very good effort.

As far as priming goes I have learnt from the benefit of other people's wisdom. I have another Land Rover which is a pretty much 100% stock standard Long Wheel Base Series 3 ute. It is powered by a 2.25 litre four cylinder diesel 3. The previous owner installed dual fuel tanks and he fitted an electric fuel pump to work in between them. Fortunately for me, this also doubles up as a priming pump. So I did not have to use the old hand primer when I accidentally ran one tank dry trying to work out the positioning of the tank switch lever. I just have to turn the pump on, open up the bleed screw and once it has a nice stream of diesel tighten the bleed screw up, Then I just move onto bleed screw number two.

I plan on doing a similar installation on the Nissan. Well I hope a similar installation on the Nissan will work? Cross fingers.

I have not tried to turn the motor over yet - the viscous fan does not allow a direct turn on to the motor by hand and the alternator pulley belts were disconnected to try in turn through the belts. I will be optimistic and I will believe what the previous owner's son said. That the motor was overhaul prior to his dad getting sick. Okay call me gullible.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[happygu]

A few bits and pieces and you will be up and running in no time at all .....

[the ferret]

You can use a spanner/ socket on the Harmonic bolt to turn it.
After bleeding the injector pump, you need to bleed an injector as well (two spanners)
I would have thought that if it was originally a petrol, that a 5 speed Nissan box would be fitted, as the SD 33 will be screaming at 80ks.
With regard to the transfer lever, you should be able to make up something similar to the Nissan remote operation.
Once you have bled the fuel, fitted starter etc, push the fuel control lever forward (start), then back to centre (run), then try and start it, to stop motor, pull the lever rearwards (stop)
Cheers, the ferret.

Yep, 1645, I think my GGGGGGrandfather worked in a Nissan factory making SD33s.