OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21

Thread: Why go 15's over 16's?

  1. #1
    Expert ozzymalone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Aspley, QLD
    Posts
    306
    Thanks
    222
    Thanked 56 Times in 40 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Why go 15's over 16's?

    Very broad question but I am looking to replace at least three of my tyres to match up running sizes.
    The wagon currently sits on 16X8' nissan steelies shod with 285/75s on the front with 265/75s on the rear.

    In the interest to do the job properly and cost effectively i was wondering why people run 16 inch rims over 15inch. I currently want to run 33's all round so my dilemma is this. Do i purchase play tyres 33inch muddies (Bighorns no doubt) on 15inch rims/16rims and run a set of daily A/T tyres on 15/16's or just replace the three in the 16' rims? HELP PLEASE!

    Why go to 15's Pro's/Con's please......what are you running and why? (Lift etc)
    SPEED METAL NEVER WENT AWAY>>>>> ONLY OUR HEARING DID!!!

  2. #2
    Patrol God nissannewby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    North brissy
    Posts
    8,198
    Thanks
    1,513
    Thanked 5,665 Times in 3,158 Posts
    Mentioned
    110 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    16's have to be run on some models to clear calipers etc. However if you can fit 15's on there without any clearance issues it shouldnt be a drama. 15 and 16" tyres are much of a muchness these days in price etc. Theres no real pro's and con's really unless there is a certain tyre you would like to run that is only made in a certain rim size. There maybe a slight difference in "bagging" but this will hardly be noticeable on something where the difference is only an inch. I run 15's on my GQ simply cos thats what it came with and same deal with my GU it came with 16's so thats what i run.

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to nissannewby For This Useful Post:

    ozzymalone (8th May 2012)

  4. #3
    Banned Bigrig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    South of Brissy, QLD
    Posts
    9,886
    Thanks
    527
    Thanked 2,206 Times in 1,474 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Whoah!! Can of worms being opened people!!!! lmao

    Easy decision for me mate, and no doubt you'll get conjecture from everyone as everyone has different needs - so that would be my first point - when deciding, take on the advice BUT weigh up with personal honesty what your 'true' needs would be.

    Me? I run 15's. Had 16" alloys which I sold to get King Rims 15" steel. Couple of reasons - I somewhat go at it off road (less touring and more hard track work). Subsequently, I need to be able to repair a bent rim on the side of the road. Also, I want more sidewall on the tyre itself so when I deflate them they bag out more ... smaller rim still using a 33" tyre means more tyre side wall to keep the tyre height - more sidewall generally means more ability to bag and flex about off road. This can also mean more tyres off the bead and more side wall damage, but that's a risk I'm willing to take for the benefit.

    Taller side walls also means less handling performance on road, but again, I'm not touring as such so no biggie for me. Smaller the side wall, less flex of the tyre in cornering etc and hence better response feel at the wheel. Same principle as all the rice burners apply who use paper thin profiled tyres on their cars.

    Others will be able to offer more comments no doubt boss, and even further detail on side wall strengthening present in larger diameter tyres that go onto smaller rims (to assist in protecting the tyre from puncture generally).

  5. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Bigrig For This Useful Post:

    Ade (8th May 2012), ozzymalone (8th May 2012), Rusty86 (8th May 2012)

  6. #4
    SPAMINATOR growler2058's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Shed
    Posts
    23,652
    Thanks
    15,807
    Thanked 12,954 Times in 6,829 Posts
    Mentioned
    45 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    !5's more side wall

    IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK

    WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!

  7. #5
    Expert ozzymalone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Aspley, QLD
    Posts
    306
    Thanks
    222
    Thanked 56 Times in 40 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Appreciate the input as always! Well I spose' if its got factory 16's I will stay with em' and go for the 33 Bighorns.

    It may be less sidewall but im only just getting into the "sport" - i use this term loosely as i like to think of drinking as a "sport" also, so that shouldn't end it for me.
    And i guess it saves me buying a whole set of street tyres/rims.

    Ta'
    SPEED METAL NEVER WENT AWAY>>>>> ONLY OUR HEARING DID!!!

  8. #6
    Patrol God taslucas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    North West Tas
    Posts
    10,804
    Thanks
    3,366
    Thanked 6,886 Times in 3,670 Posts
    Mentioned
    56 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    I kept to 15 when I got new rims because the tyres I wanted were cheaper in 15", and most my mates run 15" so if in trouble I can borrow one, I also have a few odd 15" rims kicking around that I can use if I'm in trouble. I kept with the steel rims for the same reason as bigrig, they can be fixed out on the trail.

    Tap, crackle, pop
    Hello from Under Down Under!

  9. #7
    Patrol Freak BillsGU's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Thurgoona
    Posts
    1,224
    Thanks
    40
    Thanked 601 Times in 389 Posts
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ozzy - your current tyre mix (different front to rear) is not a good idea as the tyres can turn at different rates which is not good in 4 wheel drive as you will get wind up happening. Years ago 15s were for some crazy reason much cheaper than 16s. Other than that I agree with Biggus. Just make sure 15s fit on FRONT AND REAR in case they don't clear the brake calipers.

  10. #8
    Expert
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Nelson Lakes, New Zealand
    Posts
    147
    Thanks
    10
    Thanked 26 Times in 23 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    15's more side wall = more bagging and cheaper tires over here than 16's

  11. #9
    Dribble Master Clunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    22,555
    Thanks
    14,474
    Thanked 12,763 Times in 7,162 Posts
    Mentioned
    119 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Iwent 15 for no other reason than price............. approx $300 cheaper for the set of 5 over a full set of 16s. Doesn't sound much I knowbut its 300 to spend on something else.......

    And as Bills GU said..... change your current set up as soon as possible, your gonna do some damage to your 4wd system if ya dont


  12. #10
    SPAMINATOR growler2058's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Shed
    Posts
    23,652
    Thanks
    15,807
    Thanked 12,954 Times in 6,829 Posts
    Mentioned
    45 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by ozzymalone View Post
    Appreciate the input as always! Well I spose' if its got factory 16's I will stay with em' and go for the 33 Bighorns.

    It may be less sidewall but im only just getting into the "sport" - i use this term loosely as i like to think of drinking as a "sport" also, so that shouldn't end it for me.
    And i guess it saves me buying a whole set of street tyres/rims.

    Ta'
    15" sunraysia type rims in the offset ya want are about $70 brand new mate


    Tappin N Crappin

    IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK

    WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •