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Would anybody have a photo they could post of exactly where the pyro probe gets fitted.I'm about to fit an autometer pyro guage to the patrol. Also,would the supacheap auto oil catch can kits be sufficient to use,I know the provent 200 is the preffered choice and you only get what you pay for but it should do the job.
Cheers
Scrubrat
I don't have any photo's but you want the probe for the pyro mounted as close to the turbo as possible. There are 2 different mounting methods, one uses a hose clamp arrangement and is an easy DIY job, the other requires a fitting to be welded onto the dump pipe. I'm not sure what the autometer pyro's use.
Personally I think you would be wasting your money fitting a supercheap catch can from the reports I've read they just don't filter out enough oil mist to be confident your MAF sensor will stay clean.
Tony
The autometer ones come with both fittings. They have the probe which you can drill a hole in the dump pipe to suit, insert the probe with a ceramic washer and clamp to hold in place which is all included or it also comes with a nut that can be welded in the pipe.
I did the ceramic washer, probe and drilled hole which worked fine for me.
As Tony said mate, easy DIY job.
The autometer pyro has the clamp and ceramic washer so hopefully won't be to hard of a job to install.I've heard the heat shield is a bit of a bugger to get off tho. As for the catch can,I have heard that a complete kit is up around $300,but then again it's a small price to pay for piece of mind.
Cheers tony
This might help you a little bit on the pyro. I forgot to do a detailed post about the install but there is some small info there about it.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ro+boost+gauge
The heat shield on a zd30 is a pain to get off . not much fun at all.
I'll go with the clamp and ceramic washer,sounds like getting the heatshield on and off is the hardest part of the whole job.
Thanks guys
It is a bit of a pain to get the heatshield off but it's not too bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by scrubrat
Tony
what i did mate. Took it to an exhaust place. But its hard to find one that wanted to do it.
And get a new 2 1/2 inch dump pipe, with the pyro bung in it. That way when i replace my exhaust, its also a lot less hassel :)
cost me about $350 installed
As i'm planning on doing quite a few things to the patrol while she's off the road,I have to keep costs down . I can't really justify paying $350 just for the sake of one little hole, so it's skinned knuckles and a few choice swear words.
Hope this helps somewhat. It's a scotts rods dump pipe.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...IMG_2282-1.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...l/IMG_2330.jpg
Scrubrat what type of dump pump you fitting it to ? If it's cast like the TD42's just drill and tap it to say 1/4 NPT and use a Swagelok fitting S/S to secure the thermocouple. Or if it's one of the exhaust type dump pump get a shop to weld a fitting onto it. I have seen those hose clamp type thermocouple's and due to the heat cycling the hose clamp didn't last to long only 6 or so months. Also had they had to retension the clamp a few times again due to heat cycling of the dump pipe, he finally did the weld on adaptor and S/S Swagelok fitting.
Try and get thermocouple as close as you can get to the turbo outlet.
Don't stuff around with cheap catch cans that claim a lot but do bugger all, get the Provent 200 made by Mann & Hummel.
I got mine fitted with I had a custom 3" exhaust made.
its better to fit when you do your dump pipe
g'dasy scrubrat, you are right the heat shield isa bitch to get off but it can be done. i did mine not long ago to fit a new exhaust system and it took longer to get the shield off than to fit the entire exhaust, anyway after a few choice words and a bit of trial and error this is how i managed it. first after getting all the bolts out and i don't know why but on the left side of the shield towards the fire wall there are 2 bolts next to each other the one on the left (if your facing the front of the truck ) comes out but the other one does not. spent an about half an hour working that out alone! anyway all bolts out then it is a matter of pushing the shield back enough to clear the vacume thingy on top of the turbo (not sure what it is ) then lift it up and over pulling it towards the front of the truck and once you have done this it becomes a lot easier to move around, then it is just a matter of manuevering it out through the pipes and what ever else is in the way... hope this helps....cheers....
The supercheap catch cans won't do anything unless you baffle them.
Something similar to this.
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how...nlet-tube.html
Managed to get the heat shield off yesterday,actually it came off easier than I thought ,now to get it back on after I've installed the pyro. As for the catch can I'm looking at the one cross country 4x4 sell as part of their anti hand grenade kit.Has anyone got any feedback on that one.
Cheers
Scrubrat.
I looked at a CC4x4 but ended up going the Provent 200 made by Mann & Hummel do to all the good reports and MH's reputation.
WHICH AUTOMETER GAUGE have you purchased? I just grabbed the 4344-M gauge and it comes with a 1/8"Npt fitting, so in goes the bung.Quote:
Originally Posted by scrubrat
Also what are you paying $350 for?
I've decided to go with the Provent 200 as well. I also have the 4344-M gauge.Took the dump pipe off yesterday, now to get the fitting welded in.
FullFlxd : Someone suggested that I get a new dump pipe with the bung already installed for about $350 , can't justify spending that sort of money when the pipe has to come off anyway and I have a bung to be welded on.
The aftermarket dump pipe's flow better than the standard. If going aftermarket make sure they tell you what thread the egt boss is. A some run a metric thread ( same as exhaust oxygen sensor 18mm x 1.5 pitch for memory ) and others run either NPT or BSPT.