94 GQ Coil Cab

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Pulled the bull bar off this morning and only snapped half the bolts in the process.
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The UHF antenna even came off easier than expected thanks to rats having chewed it's cable in half behind the battery.
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Plan is to replace the DTS air box with a Radius air box when it arrives and install the FMI & oil catch can, along with trying to direct more air through the rad while I'm in there.
Not sure the old rust bucket is worth it but at this stage it's all good fun.

Yep bloody rats!

They ate Rosscos heater lines, MB's brake fluid cap and they even ate my bread maker machine haha

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AB

Yep bloody rats!

They ate Rosscos heater lines, MB's brake fluid cap and they even ate my bread maker machine haha

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Bwaha yep farkers could have ended bad damitt. .

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2022/06/4.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2022/06/5.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by AB

Yep bloody rats!

They ate Rosscos heater lines, MB's brake fluid cap and they even ate my bread maker machine haha

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You bastard.......

Sorry Dasa, long story.

Been a while but a little progress has been made.
Moved the alternator wiring and the vacuum hose but still needs a bit more work to make sure it is secure and wont rub a hole.

Lost a little gas when changing the angle of the AC fitting at the front and it seems I have gotten away with bending the pipes by hand to move the AC dryer to the side a bit.
Shortened the rad hose a little so that it clears the hot side intercooler pipe.

Hot side Intercooler piping is about done but still a bit to go on the cold side.
Trimmed a bit off the battery box corner and will probably buy a bit shorter belt for the power steering.

Mate just dropped off the manifold inlet for me he had welded together after hacking up the old DTS inlet.
Still need to trim a bit more out from the grill and find some mesh to cover it up without affecting airflow to much I hope.

Watching with interest. Nice job.

I'm planning to "slap a turbo on" one or three of mine. I was going to go for top-mount intercooler, just from a space and airflow perspective (winch, bars, grille etc) but always interested to see what people come up with...

Finished of the intercooler mounts.
Picked up two 45 to finish the last stretch of pipping into the manifold but it was too close to the power steering so I used a 90 that was left from the original DTS intake but it looks to need a little trimmed off so that it is not pushing into the battery, tomorrows job.
The 90s above the manifold do touch the liner but I am not sure how hard they pres against it, should probably look into that.

Looking Great Dasa Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Wondering/imagining/possibly your real corrugations home area roads your IC might appreciate some vibration shielding Brother [emoji120][emoji120]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2022/10/12.jpg

Rubber washer (homemade) either side of your L bracket retained by a washer top and bottom and maybe a longer stud required to allow 2 x nuts underneath to lock off without over compression of the rubber anti-vibe homemade goodies [emoji106][emoji106]


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Same same just noticed too on the top of your beautiful New IC Brother [emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2022/10/13.jpg

Never ceases to amaze nuffy me what corrugations in your top neck of Australia can do to lighter beautiful metals [emoji22]


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Thanks for the suggestion MB, I should have though of that seeing as the rad and condenser are rubber mounted.
Unfortunately I would have to remake the mounts as the bolts are tight in the holes and with the intercooler being only 1mm from touching the AC piping behind it I cant really make them bigger.
I don't do a lot of corrugated driving despite living on gravel roads so I think I will just see how long it lasts since it was only $152 delivered with a ebay sale a few years back.
The piping however is costing much more at ~$38ea

Shortened the 90 into the manifold and checked the clearance which looks to be just right.
Finally patched up the wires the rats had chewed on.
Took the old pipe off the turbo intake to clean the dirt out of it which got past the DTS filter, looks like it has a few dings but hopefully it is right for a while yet.

Not much left to do but things are getting busy with lake eppalock at 110% and another 60-100mm forecast we may soon be dealing with floods on the farm.
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Just out of curiosity: why have you made a new intake manifold adapter?

The most interesting one I have seen so far for intercooled applications is one where the lads cut the manifold plenum horizontally in half, discard the upper part and weld in some aluminum flat cuts to make it somewhat trapezoidal. When doing that, they move the intake to the side of the plenum. Makes for a nice routing of the piping.

Stay safe on your Block Dasa Mate, Thursday is looking like a bad pisser on the BOM [emoji22][emoji22]
In regards the slimline rubber between steel, please do consider Brother, even our old clunky diesels can vibrate enough to destroy Aluminium beauties [emoji3590][emoji3590]


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FWIW: I’ve had, let’s say campfire ‘discussions’ with Oldest Mates about potential unfortunate cracks/holes in FMIC best performance systems.
Their Argument: “Wouldn’t matter, just a minor loss of boost”
My Uneducated Argument: “What if you were to stall/stop in a river merely half way up your grill above the FMIC”
Have seen this happen on a modern day McVehicle over on the Powerlines just outa Perth [emoji23][emoji23]


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MB

FWIW: I’ve had, let’s say campfire ‘discussions’ with Oldest Mates about potential unfortunate cracks/holes in FMIC best performance systems.
Their Argument: “Wouldn’t matter, just a minor loss of boost”
My Uneducated Argument: “What if you were to stall/stop in a river merely half way up your grill above the FMIC”
Have seen this happen on a modern day McVehicle over on the Powerlines just outa Perth [emoji23][emoji23]

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Message received but I may end up being one of those annoying idiots that ignore sound advice and ends up paying the price.
There is never enough time to do something right but there is always enough time to do it over.

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Originally Posted by BrazilianY60

Just out of curiosity: why have you made a new intake manifold adapter?
The most interesting one I have seen so far for intercooled applications is one where the lads cut the manifold plenum horizontally in half, discard the upper part and weld in some aluminum flat cuts to make it somewhat trapezoidal. When doing that, they move the intake to the side of the plenum. Makes for a nice routing of the piping.

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Had a mate do it since I am only setup for welding steel and neither of us were looking for a bigger job.
Could have purchased one but the ones available look rather low and run the intake into a flat face which I don't really like.

Sent up a drone this morning to have a look at the flood waters coming and it has risen a lot more since then.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeqZwg9LFaU
Spent the morning in tractors building Levey banks around some houses and cutting irrigation channels to let water through, also rescued a forgotten pump that was 1cm from getting water down the air intake that we plan to use to keep inside the Levey dry.

So far our houses are still dry but many around us have not been so lucky.

Carter 4601HP lift pump and a 100 micron strainer from filters plus have arrived.
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Any more Drone Piccies Old Mate? [emoji120][emoji120]


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Levels peaked about 14 hours before taking the video these screenshots are from.
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Just a wee bit of wetness...should throw a few trout in at the current fall rate...lol

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Put the old mesh back on the front for now till I find something large enough to cover it properly.
Lift pump is installed and starts when the alternator spins up.
Attachment 86223
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Some old posts from other threads.

Reversing camera install
Modified fridge slide to tilt and fit camper.
Slapped together a battery box.
Replaced handbrake cable

First trip since making the upgrades went well.
Just a hours drive out to where we have some cattle on agistment near Bendigo.

Boost seems to be topping out a little lower at 12PSI down from 13-14 and EGT topped out around 250c while engine temps were nice and low as expected considering how cold the weather was.
Fuel use is looking to be good so far which was the main reason for the lift pump to fix fuel use going from ~12l to ~20l after a tank of fuel on a new fuel filter.
Need to see if waste gate adjustment can get the boost closer to 15PSI or if it just needs the fuel screw on the pump wound out which is currently at the lowest setting.
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High flow pump and thermostat housing sprung a leak so blanked it out and set about installing a Davis Craig EWP150 kit I picked up a few years ago.
Unfortunately I cracked the thermostat housing.
Will hopefully find a bung for the old heater return tomorrow.
Still need to find some thermo fans.
Moved the thermostat spring so it stays open and holds the bypass shut then drilled some holes to reduce the restriction.
Bashed out the old pump bearings and cut out a sheet of stainless steel to sandwich between the pump housing and the block to blank it out.
Purchased some shorter belts for the alternator and power steering.
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Good luck with the EWP150 pump. I purchased one for a chiller system and found it flowed at 3LPM when connected to the system. As a free flow outlet I have no doubts it will shift 150LPM, but within a pressure loop, a dead failure. I sent mine back to Davis Craig and they accepted the warranty claim, without comment. I was running a calibrated flowmeter in the cooling system. I have tried a number of different DC pumps and found they simply dont match their capacity claims. I have shifted to bronze positive displacement gear pumps and they pump without fail to their pump curves.

Good point on the pumps head pressure, looks like its 5.1M max. Anyone know the head pressure for the stock pump or one of the high flow pumps?
It does seem to flow through the block ok at 6v when I was filling it up so hopefully at 12v it will flow well enough when the engine is under load.

So far I have driven around town and with no fans it topped out under 80c so the pump hasn't fully ramped up yet.
Tomorrow I will be driving from Bega to Pambula along the highway with a few hills so should be a decent test.
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Looks like it is performing and you cant dispute the physical data you have. I dont have the specs on the existing mechanical pump, maybe its in the manual? I have not seen anyone put a pressure tapping into the water circuit either, however the pressure rating will be aligned with the cap rating on the radiator, at temperature. Keen to hear how this works out, good job.

The pump sucks from the rad cap side so if anything it's decreasing pressure on it. The cap is just dealing with the pressure from the expansion of the water and is typically rated for under 16psi while the pump bursts at over 70 psi but can only pump up to 7.2psi.

Anyway it made it to Pambula and back while staying under 85c and the temperature gauge was around 1/4 to 1/3 vs the usual 1/2 to 3/4. So it's running better than the rusty old high flo pump with a warn out housing but i also hosed out the rad and condensor which could be what's helping most.

I think I will change the pump settings so that it doesn't ramp up to full speed till 100c vs the default 85c and see how it goes.

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Originally Posted by Dasa

The pump sucks from the rad cap side so if anything it's decreasing pressure on it. The cap is just dealing with the pressure from the expansion of the water and is typically rated for under 16psi while the pump bursts at over 70 psi but can only pump up to 7.2psi.

Anyway it made it to Pambula and back while staying under 85c and the temperature gauge was around 1/4 to 1/3 vs the usual 1/2 to 3/4. So it's running better than the rusty old high flo pump with a warn out housing but i also hosed out the rad and condensor which could be what's helping most.

I think I will change the pump settings so that it doesn't ramp up to full speed till 100c vs the default 85c and see how it goes.

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Good feedback, certainly sounds like it is working for you, maybe I did something wrong with my set-up? I like the idea of the ramping as you can limit cavitation also. What thermostats are you running? I thought the TD42 units were the 88 Deg C units? One thing though is the comment of 7.2 PSI max output. This will have an impact on the upper limit of the water temperature before boiling. I guess you will find the tipping point in time.

Quick question, how is the water circuit actually plumbed up with the inclusion of the electric unit - do you just remove the impeller and bolt the case back together? Or is the impeller still some of the work in the mechanical pump?

Removed the impeller and put a sheet of stainless in the middle of what was the pump. Installed the new pump inline on the rad outlet.
No idea what thermostat I was running but yes it was probably also raising the minimum temp.