Custom solar shower water storage. Approx 65l

Hey guys thought id share my DIY solar shower/water storage build.

So basically used 100mm pvc high pressure pipe. works out that 1m of 100mm pvc equals to 10l.
I used a couple of 90' f/f elbows plus the inspection elbows , 1 bulk head for the tap and a tyre valve to pressurise the system.
Painted in gloss black to heat up in the sun which also suits my roof rack lol, I've used self adhesive rubber to line the pvc where the rack mounts are so no rubbing.
for the kick ass shower awning i had to make up some custom u bolts out of 6mm stainless threaded rod with i lined with heat shrink and then the l bracket is lined with rubber too. mounting wise i have used 8 grunt 600 mm rubber coller straps from bunnings, they sit quite nice and tidy. have used the system a few times now and works really good, to have a nice consistent flow i hook up my air compressor , and i also use the kick ass instant hot water unit which is bloody awesome and heats up in two seconds.

cheers.

Attachment 84141Attachment 84142Attachment 84143

Thanks fastflag, looks good.

I have a PVC (100mm diameter) water tank mounted to the underside of my roof tray (Patrol GU IV) - it holds ~50L. It's similar to the one pictured above, but in a figure 8 shape UNDER the tray, not around the edges of the tray. The fittings are all on a pipe endcap with horizontal axis as follows:
· filler/discharge tap fitting at the bottom of the end cap, and
· and a brass elbow (female ¾” BSP thread) at the top of the cap.
The brass elbow is open to atmosphere but plugged with a poly pipe plug which has a 1mm hole in it.

To fill the tank, I remove the poly pipe plug, attach my garden hose to the tap and fill the tank until water comes out of the elbow - it usually fountains about 2m high. I close taps and remove the hose then replace the poly pipe plug. The hole in the plug is there to prevent vacuum in the tank when I'm using the water – allows water to flow out of the tap. However, it also allows water to slosh out of it when driving around (as there are no baffles in the tank).

I'm after a valve to attached to the elbow which will:
· allow me to fill the tank (let air out),
· prevent vacuum in the tank so I can drain the tank by opening the tap,
· prevent overpressure in the tank (in the case of solar powered overpressure in the tank or when I’m filling it), and
· prevent water sloshing out of it.

Does anyone have any advice on what valves I could add to meet the above requirements please?

I've called all sorts of irrigation and plumbing and valve companies. Best I can find is an air vacuum relief valve but they're all plastic with no UV resistance. I'd need a metal one (preferably brass) as it will be staring at the sun all day every day.

Happy for y'all to skip the "why store water in PVC?", "why put weight on the roof?", etc questions and criticisms - I'm after a solution to the above query only, thanks.

Hopefully I am picturing your setup correctly, but it sounds like this kind of mini ball valve would work for what you need?http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2022/02/27.jpg
It may need some adaptor for the thread, but it's pretty inexpensive.
https://www.valvesonline.com.au/mini...valve-m-f-ends

Thanks Cremulator,
it's not a ball valve I need - they are manual. I'm after an automatic system. One that will let air in to prevent vacuum and let air out but not water.

I would use either a piece of 6mm plastic hose curled up so the air can get out like a capillary tube or a sintered air fitting they use on exhaust ports of pneumatic valves as the path to freedom for the water is difficult but the air will leak in and out without water leakng. Even a small 5cent irrigation spray head from Bunnings will work

Thanks Peebee and - that's a good suggestion. I shall consider.

I think in the mean time I will be putting one of these on the elbow vent (Bermad Vacuum Release Valve 15mm). It is cheap (and the plastic I'll need to prevent from sun damage with a fabric sack over the top). It won't allow water to escape (except maybe a trickle) when I'm filling so I'll have to be careful when I fill the tank as described in the OP so I don't build pressure and explode the tank - I can do this.

A separate idea I had from a valve supplier is to install a 1/2" immersion breather on the elbow. This would allow air in and out to equalise pressure.

I'll let y'all know how it goes on the next trip in a few months.

65kg of water, plus all the PVC, plus the awning, plus the weight of the rack - does not leave you much available weight to stow stuff on the rack. Need to be careful you don't cause insurance issues in the event of a mishap. Do you know the roof load limit for your vehicle (not just the load limit of the rack)?

Very Sound Advice from BBMate [emoji106][emoji106]
Even touring can be heavy top loaded road treacherous high speed swerving with too much weight atop let alone deliberately/slowly flexing bush tracks down to ones campsite off highway, stay safe and carry ‘wet-wipes’ [emoji120][emoji120][emoji3590]


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EDIT: Pack your heaviest kit/food/water etc… as low as vehicular possible [emoji120][emoji120]


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Years ago a member of our 4WD Club had a similar set up prior to his lap of OZ. 18 months later he returned from his lap minus the roof plumbing. When we asked why he said that once off road the vehicle felt unstable and all the extra rock and roll caused by all that weight of water sloshing around made his kids constantly car sick. He removed the pipes and all the problems went away. Just something to consider.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BillsGU

Years ago a member of our 4WD Club had a similar set up prior to his lap of OZ. 18 months later he returned from his lap minus the roof plumbing. When we asked why he said that once off road the vehicle felt unstable and all the extra rock and roll caused by all that weight of water sloshing around made his kids constantly car sick. He removed the pipes and all the problems went away. Just something to consider.

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Baffles can ease that problem as long as they slow the flow sufficiently. But they wont help in an off-road near roll situation when all the water weight up high flows to the low side and exacerbates the problem considerably.

Yep baffles will ease some movement. If it was all so simple and doable I'm sure that ARB, Ironman, Kings, etc would have had them for sales years ago. I don't want to be negative - but it is too much weight - too much movement - too high up. What could possibly go right? IMHO.