Fitting a Redarc TowPro to a GUIV

Hi guys,

Well I have bitten the bullet and purchased a Redarc TowPro for the GUIV. I did a fair bit of reading and felt the TowPro auto Calibration on the fly was a winner.

So a couple of questions to begin with.

Where has everyone installed the single dial controller? Very interested in pics please, especially in a GUIV.

When I had my alarm fitted the installer fitted the warning light to that little panel on the right side of the steering wheel wheel Cuppa has his.

Show me where you put it.

Also, I am replacing an old controller. Should it be expected that the wiring colours will be the same? What is the best way to test colours? Does anyone have a list of colours for your towpro.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/09/155.jpg

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Geez they have come down in price , might get one for the GU as the old unit rubs against the knee .

@Bacho86 has recently fitted his Darren. He has a GU4.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post740503

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Originally Posted by Hodge

@Bacho86 has recently fitted his Darren. He has a GU4.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post740503

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Hey Nath nah shouldn't light up without a trailer but as soon as you plug it in should be blue. Don't know how but knows when attached to the brakes will light up red when braking then. Took a while to calibrate mine probably half a K of on off brakes before it knew which way it was going.

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Originally Posted by Bacho86

Install and wired up the redarc tow pro elite this arvo, easy enough job just time consuming for a novice!!

When I tested everything it was showing about 5v at the rear trailer plug pin no. 5, which increased to just shy of 12v when the controller was turned up to 10 and I applied the brakes.... however the controller led's never worked - no green, blue, red light or otherwise.... given I didn't have a trailer connected is this to be executed?

Should the redarc led's be lighting up during normal driving without a trailer?

@Yeti'sbeast @Rossco

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Originally Posted by Bacho86

Awesome thanks for the confirmation, hopefully picking up the camper in the next couple days so will be able to try it out!


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Originally Posted by Yeti's Beast

When you first connect the camper the LED might flash various colors for a while, but that's just the unit calibrating. Once it's settled it will remain blue while connected as Rosco said.

Cheers


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Bacho do you have the wiring detail you used? Wondering if it will transfer from my existing controller which is stuffed

Also pics of where you installed the dial would be awesome. Where d id you put the box?

Attachment 73302Attachment 73303

This is in mine, later model.
Just above traction button, had to cut out inside of the cover with a sharp chisel.

Thanks GeeYou8. Appreciate the pics. I have my Sub tank switch where your controller is and then 2 carling switched below that for spots and roof lights.

How did you fix the module up in there? Do you remember the wire colours?

Anyone else got pics?

Hey @MudRunnerTD, away ATM but I'll try and get you some details over the next couple days.

Very happy towing with it though, effortless


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Originally Posted by Bacho86

Hey @MudRunnerTD, away ATM but I'll try and get you some details over the next couple days.

Very happy towing with it though, effortless


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Awesome mate. Really appreciate it

There are a couple of brackets that hold wiring, I fitted a piece of aluminium flat bar between them.
I only remember blue wire for the brakes & red was the brake light signal, both connect at the trailer plug. A length of whipper snipper line makes a good snake for pulling the wires through the conduit. Wires comes though a cable gland fitted where an accelerator cable would run if it had one.
My sub tank switch & rear aircon are the two next to the cigarette lighters, can't see from driving position.
Graham

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Thanks GeeYou8. Appreciate the pics. I have my Sub tank switch where your controller is and then 2 carling switched below that for spots and roof lights.

How did you fix the module up in there? Do you remember the wire colours?

Anyone else got pics?

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You got the instructions? From memory blue to trailer, red to brake light switch (switched side not constant power side), white I think to battery and black earth. Then just plug in control knob. . .

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From the Redarc website

Attachment 73313

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Originally Posted by TimE

From the Redarc website

Attachment 73313

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Ooh i had the positive & negative the wrong way. . . Could have resulted in a Coighty moment [emoji28]

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Wiring up is as per the instructions, is pretty straight forward.

Based on advice from redarc we used minimum 30amp wiring for the black and blue, and 20 amp for the brake input - which retrospectively was possible major overkill -- I think we ended up using mostly 6mm based on what we had available.

I installed the controller on the pop out panel above the mic - good position for viewing and also access for driver abs passenger if required.

The unit was installed under the steering wheel on the panel - the set of 4 screws on the right hand side. Other set of bolts is for my lock up torque converter.

Instructions from redarc say that it doesn't matter what orientation the unit is it, as long as it's secure and can't move.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/09/171.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/09/172.jpg

If you got any other questions let me know


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Originally Posted by Rossco

Ooh i had the positive & negative the wrong way. . . Could have resulted in a Coighty moment [emoji28]

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https://youtu.be/EQHkQgH1sPk

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And this from another post where yeti provided me with some great advice!!

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Originally Posted by Yeti's Beast

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/09/96.jpg
Hi, the red wire from the controller goes to the green/yellow wire on the brake pedal switch. All the wires from the controller are labeled.
Cheers
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/09/97.jpg



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I too installed my controller up near the radio for ease of adjustment
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/09/174.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/09/175.jpg
And the box went up behind where the original old brake unit sat under the dash next to the steering wheel.
Very happy with the Redarc product [emoji106]

Oops my photos are the wrong way around lol

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Thanks gents.

Yeah I already have an old style haymenreece controller that has failed. I am trying to figure out if the wiring is the same and I just cut and slice. All good gents you have given me a good start.

@Bacho86 I am hoping one day to fit locker switches in that spot but h ad considered it.

@GeeYou8 yeah I have relocated my Sub tank switch from the blind spot to beside the gear box surround which is awesome.

I really need to be able to see and access this switch in an emergency without fumbling around looking for it yeah?

I too had a faulty controller (Tekonsha) so for me it was simply use the existing wiring, both units had the same colors.
They too had gone over kill on the wiring and used 6mm from the battery to the controller and from the controller to the rear. At least we know it can handle the current.
Cheers
Oh and ps off topic a bit, for those with the original radio with blue tooth and if you ever change it for a new one, you will find the new radio will have a gap around it. The original has foam strips stuck top and bottom, carefully remove them and place on your new radio to give it the factory finish
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/09/176.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/09/177.jpg
Sorry for wandering away from the subject [emoji6] but it was a handy tip I learnt when I changed my unit


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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Thanks gents.

Yeah I already have an old style haymenreece controller that has failed. I am trying to figure out if the wiring is the same and I just cut and slice. All good gents you have given me a good start.

@Bacho86 I am hoping one day to fit locker switches in that spot but h ad considered it.

@GeeYou8 yeah I have relocated my Sub tank switch from the blind spot to beside the gear box surround which is awesome.

I really need to be able to see and access this switch in an emergency without fumbling around looking for it yeah?

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Yes I had similar hopes with future switches, however that dream was awhile away and I had the reality of trying to install the tow pro controller now.

On a positive, it's only a couple small holes in a removable panel so can either be replaced in the future or can be relocated easily (data cable is a couple meters long from memory) if required when you have the need for more switches!!

With regards for location, the befit of this unit is that its automatic, ie for normal driving once you've set for the load / conditions you won't need to play with it much - however for off road use, (which no doubt you'll use), you've got he ability for manual override - for which you'd want easy access.

Plus it's always nice to be able to see how it's operating


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One thing I wish I had of purchased was the universal panel mount kit
https://www.ebay.com.au/i/292106051078
Could of made installation so much easier
[emoji6]


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I removed my TowPro from my retired Patrol (Thelma) and installed it into my newer Patrol (Big Girl). It worked fine for over a year, then the blue light faded and stopped altogether.

We upgraded to the Elite TowPro: just pulled out the old one and replaced the unit and the dial (different plug...) and plugged the original wired plug into the new TowPro. It doesn't light up at all.

Really don't want to have to rewire it. Have checked voltage (power in and power out) all good on the old plug. Any ideas from our sparky guru's???

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Originally Posted by Big Girl

I removed my TowPro from my retired Patrol (Thelma) and installed it into my newer Patrol (Big Girl). It worked fine for over a year, then the blue light faded and stopped altogether.

We upgraded to the Elite TowPro: just pulled out the old one and replaced the unit and the dial (different plug...) and plugged the original wired plug into the new TowPro. It doesn't light up at all.

Really don't want to have to rewire it. Have checked voltage (power in and power out) all good on the old plug. Any ideas from our sparky guru's???

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If two units failed then check the common elements. Trailer plug, *earth* to chassis, plug and trailer, brakes on the trailer, and the wiring loom to both. especially the earths.

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Originally Posted by mudnut

If two units failed then check the common elements. Trailer plug, *earth* to chassis, plug and trailer, brakes on the trailer, and the wiring loom to both. especially the earths.

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It's earthed back to the negative terminal on the battery. Must it earth to the chassis as well?

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Originally Posted by Big Girl

It's earthed back to the negative terminal on the battery. Must it earth to the chassis as well?

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Negative terminal should be fairly solidly bonded (earthed) to chassis.

I'd check for continuity between any "hot" wires and earth/negative... a wire may have rubbed through or shorted out somewhere along the line. Though, fuses should blow before computers cook...

If it is a good connection, then that is enough but it is always good to have extra earth cables in the system. I have ran a short cable from the socket to the rear bumper on my GQ. Since doing that, I've had a lot less problems with the trailer and vehicle lights. I also ran a couple of earths from the body to the chassis.

You need to check all of the wiring, and do away with any scotch locks. (those plastic connectors that you just place the cables in and squash them shut. They are prone to failure). Replace them with either soldered joints or properly crimped lugs or joiners.

We reinstalled the original unit and it 'woke up'. Seems it was in sleep mode. Just needed to threaten it with replacement! An easy fix for a change.