Just wondering if anyone knows how much brake fluid I need to do a full flush and get some air out of these lines!
Single piston calibers, GQ LWB, doing all four plus the bias valve at the back which I believe I start at.
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Just wondering if anyone knows how much brake fluid I need to do a full flush and get some air out of these lines!
Single piston calibers, GQ LWB, doing all four plus the bias valve at the back which I believe I start at.
About half a bottle but you will use more bleeding it.
So you think 1L would be enough including bleeding?
All new pads and rotors if it helps.
Should be, but I would buy 2 and throw the second one in the back of the car incase you need it.
X 2. Cheap as, and you may as well do the clutch while you have the gear there already. Just remember to whack a block of wood behind the pedal, so you don't push the piston past its normal range when you are bleeding the system.
Thanks guys. Anyone gravity bled a system before? Will most likely be doing it solo.
Can I gravity bleed the clutch? And do you know where the nipple is for it? Does it also take DOT3?
Gravity bleeding is a pain to do and is slow. Best way is to get some clear pvc that fits snug over the bleed nipple. Get around a metre long. Get an old bottle, only need to be 500ml or so. I used an old 500ml brake fluid bottle. Make a hole in the lid and push the hose in so it sit on the bottom of the bottle. Put a small amount of fluid in the bottle enough to cover the end of the hose. This is so you don't suck air back up and into the cylinder you want to bleed. Then put the other end of the hose onto the cylinder you want to bleed, open the nipple and pump away, watching that you dont run the reservoir dry.
If you doing all four wheels, start from the furthest cylinder, rear lhs and work your way forward, not forgetting to do the bias valve aswell.
Ok no worries. Mudski would you do the bias valve first, or third as per longest to shortest?
And any idea re the clutch bleed and where the nipple is/same method/dot3?
I think I did the two rears and then the bias. It was a while ago. You should have a bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder. Some GQ's have the bleed nipple on the line somewhere too from memory. Same fluid too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
I saw our mechanic at work uses one of these bleeder tool kits...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201662640...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
So I ordered one off eBay $17 !
I still wouldn't have a clue nor have balls to touch my brakes, but it's a nice tool kit to have around.
2 500mL bottles will be more than enough.
I use a vacuum bleeder that runs off the compressor.
Thanks for the help everyone :)
Get one of these mate. Better and easier approach, I reckon. And probably helps prevent any damage to the master cylinder by accidentally pumping it too hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/X-BULL-Ha...8AAOSwImRYKtLo
Yeah, do the clutch while at it, and be gentle with the pedal so the master & slave cylinder won't be compromised.
Thanx,Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
That' a better price mine & the same thing. :D
I'm doing the same job with mine.
Just about to get into it. :)
I've been doing the old school way for years with a little bottle and a piece of rubber hose.
The above tool make it a truly safe one man job I reckon.
How does that work mate?Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Is that similar to the vacuum pump that runs off compressors that are used to suck the air/moisture out of Aircon systems?
Post a picture if you don't mind please.
Hmm, i've got a syringe type setup that I think I bought for doing it on my motorbike once but never used it.
Any reason I can't use that to pull fluid/air out in the same effect as these other things? Provided I lock the bleed nipple off when I empty the fluid out, there will still be fluid in the hose so I can't reintroduce air into the system.
My thing looks like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/2525...pid=107&chn=ps
Not quite. It is just a venturi type device. The pressure of the compressed air running over a orifice creates a vacuum. The line that connects to the orifice is what you connect to the bleed nipple. You just lock the trigger on and hang it up and wait until clean fluid comes out then lock the nipple up. This is the one I have.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogu....php/1/ATK3582
Have you found that the product's plastic and hoses don't react with the brake fluid over time, Matt?
This particular one hasnt. I did have a cheaper one vefore the Air Boy and it did.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
You should clean it after each use. I normally squirt some brake cleaner through it while its sucking. Then give the pot a clean.
Using a one man bleeder system(for around $7 from Supercheap, Repco, etc), you can still manage it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
It's that you just need to keep depressing the brake/clutch petal and then keep going outside and check the little bottle and hose to make sure bubble free liquid comes out of the nipple.
The single tools in the link is worth the money I reckon. For $17, you save lot of trouble. The one man $7 brake bleeder bottle is something you can easily make at home anyway with a little bottle and a piece of hose. Even though I paid some $10 or so for it at supercrap auto, I could've made a better one at home by spending nothing. :D.
It shouldn't, should it?!!Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Brake fluid is corrosive when it come to metal, paint, etc but not so much with plastics or rubber, afaik.
Aw yeah, I was just going to connect the hose to the bleeder nipple, and the other end straight to the syringe. Use the syringe to suck air/fluid until it's full, close off the line, empty syringe, rinse and repeat.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Also @dom14 do you have a picture of the vac line I'm supposed to plug when adjusting the timing? I went to inbox you but your message box is full. Didn't want to start a new thread.
The vacuum advance line that is connected to the distributor .
Thanks mudnut, so just plug that black hose in the pic. Cheers.
Sure mate. You would need a syringe sightly bigger to make it quicker though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
The tool on ebay has the larger container, so you don't need to repeat the same action too many times, unless you have a large syringe, which might cost you around ten bucks anyway.
P.S.
Sorry mate.
I just read back and realized you already have the syringe tool with large enough syringe.
You don't need another new tool. :)
Sorry mate, just had a some busy times. As mudnut posted, it's the vacuum line attached to the dizzy via the vacuum diaphragm unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
You can't miss it.