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Hi guys. I'm getting a slight vibration from the Patrol when accelerating, mostly at lower revs. I suspect it's the u-joints, but weirdly enough I feel it in the gas pedal. Going to check the joints later when I get home. I am also suspicious about the transmission brake as some weeks ago, I pulled it up in the traffic and got nothing. Seems the cable broke. Maybe it's rubbing on the driveshaft. Any ideas?
Might sound silly but check for loose wheels
Thanks threedogs, but no loose wheels seen.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
have you jacked it up and checked,
you may have knocked a weight off
the tail shaft
I havenpt jacked it up yet. I did check the shaft for play by the u joints. How do I check it for weights? If any are missing, how do I get them on a rebalance the shaft?Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Is it a vibration or rather a kinda grunting you here on low revs around 1500rpm-1800rpm range(petrol engine) on 1st or 2nd gear during take off? Do you feel like the the "vibration" comes from clutch/transmission area(assuming it's manual transmission).Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence
I feel the vibration in the body of the car mostly at lower revs when accelerating. On the highway I am also feeling it in 4th.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Ok, that may be or may not be the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence
The low rev grunting of the gearbox is fairly common in GQ Patrols.
I experience that in gears up to the third, though I can't remember hearing it on fourth and above though.
If the car body vibrates with that thing, then you may have something different related to pretty much anything in the
drive train, as well as suspension issues.
After driving the vehicle today, I realized that the vibrations were mostly felt at high revs. They seemed to have been getting worse. anyway, checked underneath this evening. Found that the bolts connecting the driveshaft to the rear diff were loose enough to be turned by hand. Going to tighten them up in a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Check that one or both your front hubs are not locked. I can get a very similar and slight vibe if i am still running in 4wd even when i 2wd
What?!! That's not good news. Those bolts need to be torqued properly or else the uni joint & diff pinion won't be happy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence
Sounds like you've found your problem, but might have done the damage already anyway.
After tightening the bolts, park the vehicle without handbrake on and feel if there's any up/down/side movement in the uni joint(even better when the rear wheels are jacked up)
or diff pinion/yoke. There shouldn't be any movements at all. If there IS, get the uni joint or diff pinion bearing done accordingly.
You didn't mean auto hubs, did you?Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Following the advice from the blokes here while ago, I lock the hubs once every few weeks and do few good miles to "lube" them by breaking the extended stationary position of the front axles, cv, diff, etc.
While the petrol tank work was getting done and fixing some carby issues(removed the rear driveshaft), I was driving on the 2WD front wheels on very short trips for few days. :)
There was bit more vibration and grunting than normal, but it wasn't that bad as long as I stick with speeds upto 60km/h, but not any faster.
Yeah I've had a vibe issue in my GQ and GU for this reason. The GQ I had not unlocked the manual hubs and in the GU with Auto hubs set to Auto I had not disengaged them properly and the front shaft was spinning.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
If we leave GU auto hubs on "free" position, then we shouldn't have that problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
But, that means it's essentially used as a manual hub, isn't it?
The Auto Hub only has Auto and Lock. So when using in Auto mode and flicking back to 2wd it's essential to put the car in reverse and reverse to disengage or you can drive forever with the front driveshaft still engaged.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Probably you don't wanna do that to preserve the lifespan of the transfer box, you reckon?Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
BTW, auto hubs not having a manual choice obviously explains why some blokes convert them back to manual.
When auto hubs don't work properly and stays locked, it's a problem, isn't it?!
Thanks Mudrunner.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Yeah driving on the bitumen with the front locked in puts stress on your CVs and Diff centre so its not ideal.
The Auto Hubs kind of act the same as an Auto Locker in that they engage when they sense drive, the reason guys change them or modify them to be Lock and Unlock is they can Drop Out rather than Lock up. Pain in the arse really, when they fail they just drop out and you loose your 4wd option and drive to the front. They also tend to drop out in Reverse. By choosing the Lock position they tend to stay in and should be bedded better but fundamentally they are weaker than a standard manual hub and given a choice the manuals are the go.
Autos are awesome for switching on the Fly. I can choose Hi Range 4wd on a dirt road at 60kms/h and visa versa. but to disengage them you really need to stop and reverse up 5m to 10m to click them out.
I used to drive an old Jackaroo & the auto hubs were working fine for an old vehicle(83 model I think).Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I've never had to reverse to release the auto hubs.
I wonder why these newer patrols couldn't come up with an auto hub like that.
Manual hubs are reliable, but bit of a PITA when you have to get out to engage them all the time, depending on the frequency &
the spot that I need to get out of the vehicle.