Camping/Reverse lights

Hey All,
I've done a bit of searching and can't find what I'm trying to do.
I'm hoping someone can draw me basic schematic of being able to do the following. I want my external reverse lights to always come on with my car reverse lights, but want to also have them come on as camping lights independently. There's no need to have an off option as such they are low powered and can always be on with reverse. I already have a three pin on/off 30amp switch so hoping to use this if possible.
The lights draw is only 0.30amp @ 12v
Here is a link to the lights
http://www.narva.com.au/products/search?search=72446

And the switch
http://www.narva.com.au/products/det...s-popup-layout


Thanks
Mick

Pretty simple to do. Your camp light should be powered from a relay. Trigger the relay from your reverse light positive in the guard.

Supply a fused link straight from your battery to the relay as the power for the light. Earth to the body.

Run a wire from your switch to the same trigger pin as your reverse light. Circuit complete.

The relay will trigger when in reverse or when switched.

I would use a bigger light. That will offer little if any advantage as a reverse light.

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

I would use a bigger light. That will offer little if any advantage as a reverse light.

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I've have two already fitted for the past 4 years solely as reverse lights and found them to be very good.
Thank you for your description above, doesn't make a lot of sense to myself though without a schematic. Appreciate your help though.

Those lights are good actually. I had them on the back of the roof rack for broad coverage and they were excellent. I recently mounted up the new Lightforce Rok9 units after ripping a Narva one off on a branch. Also a nice broad usable light that doesn't blind you.

Sorry, can't help with a diagram of what MR has given though, but it is straight forward. You could probably draw it from what he has said and get a visual?

For a work light those alloy square or round 18 watt or 27watt in flood pattern work a treat.
I have 120 smd LED x 4 as reverse lights making it day light with a 27 watt as well.

I would still have an "off" position on the switch.
Use a 3 position centre off style.

Reason being is that the first copper who sees the lights come on when you select reverse will probably be reaching for his canaries no matter how low power the lamps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

I would still have an "off" position on the switch.
Use a 3 position centre off style.

Reason being is that the first copper who sees the lights come on when you select reverse will probably be reaching for his canaries no matter how low power the lamps.

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Which is exactly what happened to me yesterday! !!! ( read the Queens birthday thred ). I have mine on a on/off/on switch. One is reverse centre is off and other is camp. Both fed from auxiliary battery. Switch is hidden when he got me to slot it in reverse and it didn't come on he was happy. Dodged a bullet .

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

Don't you have the have the work light switch ,,, in the cargo area,
so you can't activate it whilst driving???

Ok quick q.i though you needed 2 relays. One for reverse and one for work light..
With only one won't the reverse lights recive a positive feed from the switch when it's on??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hodge

Which is exactly what happened to me yesterday! !!! ( read the Queens birthday thred ). I have mine on a on/off/on switch. One is reverse centre is off and other is camp. Both fed from auxiliary battery. Switch is hidden when he got me to slot it in reverse and it didn't come on he was happy. Dodged a bullet .

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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ROFL... there ya go then... the Defence rests.

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Originally Posted by bigguwesty

Ok quick q.i though you needed 2 relays. One for reverse and one for work light..
With only one won't the reverse lights recive a positive feed from the switch when it's on??

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You can use a single change over relay if you want... Work light switch supplies 12 V to 87a (work selected) or 12 volts to 87 (rev selected) connect pin 30 to the work lights, relay switched by 12 volts on 85 from the reverse lights
Work = work lights on thru 87a
Rev = work lights on only when rev selected to energise relay to pin 87
Off = nuffink 'cause there is no 12 volts (relay will still pull in tho)

Fuse in the 12 volt to the switch protects the switch, wiring and lights
Switching the relay via reverse doesn't load the reverse circuit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

You can use a single change over relay if you want... Work light switch supplies 12 V to 87a (work selected) or 12 volts to 87 (rev selected) connect pin 30 to the work lights, relay switched by 12 volts on 86 from the reverse lights
Work = work lights on thru 87a
Rev = work lights on only when rev selected to energise relay to pin 87
Off = nuffink 'cause there is no 12 volts (relay will still pull in tho)

Fuse in the 12 volt to the switch protects the wiring and lights
Switching the relay via reverse doesn't load the reverse circuit

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Augh yep.. simple..

Thank you everyone for your help.

Still f$&ked though, just trying to draw it out. So far I've got:

30 - to +ve on work lights
87A - to switch then +ve on battery
87 - to +ve on reverse
85 - ?
86 - ?

Thanks for your patience people. Just struggle visualizing things

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigguwesty

Ok quick q.i though you needed 2 relays. One for reverse and one for work light..
With only one won't the reverse lights recive a positive feed from the switch when it's on??

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Need to put a diode in to stop the feed. I had this problem and it blew the reverse light fuse and the car would not start - took a while to work out what happened....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigguwesty

Ok quick q.i though you needed 2 relays. One for reverse and one for work light..
With only one won't the reverse lights recive a positive feed from the switch when it's on??

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Here you go, this is how mine are wired. Single relay using the on/off/on switch.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=67746&stc=1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hodge

Here you go, this is how mine are wired. Single relay using the on/off/on switch.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=67746&stc=1

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Thanks, think I'll just go down that path of having a on/off/on switch. Seems much easier. Cheers

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Originally Posted by Skitzyrex

Thank you everyone for your help.

Still f$&ked though, just trying to draw it out. So far I've got:

30 - to +ve on work lights
87A - to switch then +ve on battery
87 - to +ve on reverse
85 - ?
86 - ?

Thanks for your patience people. Just struggle visualizing things

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Battery positive to fuse then runs to centre pin (common) of 3 way switch (usually labelled as pin 2)
87 - One pin of switch to 87 (this will power the lights when relay is energised) so is "Rev"
87A - Other pin of switch to 87A (this will power the lights when relay deenrgised) so is "Work"
85 - Reverse positive (lights, gearbox switch or whatever) to pin 85
86 - Earth to pin 86
30 - yes, as you stated, goes to work light supply

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

Battery positive to fuse then runs to centre pin (common) of 3 way switch (usually labelled as pin 2)
87 - One pin of switch to 87 (this will power the lights when relay is energised) so is "Rev"
87A - Other pin of switch to 87A (this will power the lights when relay deenrgised) so is "Work"
85 - Reverse positive (lights, gearbox switch or whatever) to pin 85
86 - Earth to pin 86
30 - yes, as you stated, goes to work light supply

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Thank you Evil.

I need to do this too, I can't see a bloody thing backing up at night. Glad you guys mentioned installing an off option when in reverse. Didn't realise "The Man" would get so upset by it. I suppose I should know better by now that they get upset by almost everything. Would it be best to put the switch in the rear cargo area or in the cab? Or both?

On my old GU2 I had it wired so that when the driving lights switch was on the halogen reversing light came on (via a relay) when reverse was selected.
With the low current draw of an LED is it necessary to use a relay?
Three position switch, feed from reverse light to one side, fused power from battery to the other, centre terminal to LED +ve.
Graham

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

Battery positive to fuse then runs to centre pin (common) of 3 way switch (usually labelled as pin 2)
87 - One pin of switch to 87 (this will power the lights when relay is energised) so is "Rev"
87A - Other pin of switch to 87A (this will power the lights when relay deenrgised) so is "Work"
85 - Reverse positive (lights, gearbox switch or whatever) to pin 85
86 - Earth to pin 86
30 - yes, as you stated, goes to work light supply

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Evil,
Hoping your genius mind can help a electrical nuffy again.

I ordered another switch which was on off on which some of you suggested however that's where it got more complicated.

Here is a pic of the wiring diagram so more than just three tabs, so hoping you can tell me which goes to where on it from the relay.
Thank you.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...016/08/259.jpg

Pins 4, 5 and 6 are for switching your load or relays or whatever

So... 5 is common and 4 and 6 are your switched power IE 5 is 12+ and when the switch is in one 'on' position 4 and 5 will be short and when in the other 'on' 5 and 6 will be short and when in centre 5 will not be connected to 4 or 6 IE 'off'

Pins 1, 2, 3 and 7 are for the switch lighting only

Pin 7 is earth solely for the indicator lights in the switch so if you don't want lights at all no connection needed... if you want lights then that needs to be earth.
Pins 1, 2 and 3 switch the same as 4, 5 and 6.
If you want the switch internal LED lights to come on depending on switch selection simply run 12 volts to pin 2 and when you switch one way one light will come on and the other way for the other.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

Pins 4, 5 and 6 are for switching your load or relays or whatever

So... 5 is common and 4 and 6 are your switched power IE 5 is 12+ and when the switch is in one 'on' position 4 and 5 will be short and when in the other 'on' 5 and 6 will be short and when in centre 5 will not be connected to 4 or 6 IE 'off'

Pins 1, 2, 3 and 7 are for the switch lighting only

Pin 7 is earth solely for the indicator lights in the switch so if you don't want lights at all no connection needed... if you want lights then that needs to be earth.
Pins 1, 2 and 3 switch the same as 4, 5 and 6.
If you want the switch internal LED lights to come on depending on switch selection simply run 12 volts to pin 2 and when you switch one way one light will come on and the other way for the other.

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You're a legend thank you

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skitzyrex

You're a legend thank you

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ROFL... dunno about that... I've been wrong more often than right lately...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

ROFL... dunno about that... I've been wrong more often than right lately...

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So using the below diagram
Attachment 68727

and the following for the switch
4 - Reverse wire from oem reverse lights
5 - Earth Being Common to both
6 - 12v from aux battery

The fuse blew straight away when turning on, so I must of done something wrong.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skitzyrex

So using the below diagram
Attachment 68727

and the following for the switch
4 - Reverse wire from oem reverse lights
5 - Earth Being Common to both
6 - 12v from aux battery

The fuse blew straight away when turning on, so I must of done something wrong.

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Where you say "5- Earth", this should be going to relay pin 85 in the diagram.
Graham

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GeeYou8

Where you say "5- Earth", this should be going to relay pin 85 in the diagram.
Graham

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Yes, that's where I had it. I don't understand why it blew the fuze.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skitzyrex

Yes, that's where I had it. I don't understand why it blew the fuze.

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How big is the fuse?
What wattage are the lamps?

Your earlier post said that the lamps were 0.3 amps so they should not blow any automotive fuse, is the relay in a cradle or just connected with fast-on / spade terminals? Can you disconnect 87 at the relay & see if the relay clicks when the switch is operated, do not put the car in reverse while it is faulty or you could do some damage.
Do you have any test gear, a test light and multimeter?
Graham

Quote:

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Originally Posted by strider

I need to do this too, I can't see a bloody thing backing up at night. Glad you guys mentioned installing an off option when in reverse. Didn't realise "The Man" would get so upset by it. I suppose I should know better by now that they get upset by almost everything. Would it be best to put the switch in the rear cargo area or in the cab? Or both?

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Be careful putting a switch on the dash. If you do, don't label it as "rear lights" because your not supposed to be able to project white light our the rear end while driving forward. I made the mistake of labeling it and got pegged during a rego check last week.
Its funny because it wasn't an issue last year but different mechanic.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GeeYou8

Your earlier post said that the lamps were 0.3 amps so they should not blow any automotive fuse, is the relay in a cradle or just connected with fast-on / spade terminals? Can you disconnect 87 at the relay & see if the relay clicks when the switch is operated, do not put the car in reverse while it is faulty or you could do some damage.
Do you have any test gear, a test light and multimeter?
Graham

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I spoke to a Auto Elec at work and he asked if the relay had a diode of which it does and and he said to swap 85 and 86 around. It still blew using 5 amp fuses. I'm just using the push on little connectors directly on the relay at this stage and haven't even tried with the auto reverse yet.
I've now dropped it into work and the auto elec is going to check out what I've done then I'll let everyone know what was wrong.

Found out guys that my wiring was fine, and it's actually the light that's causing the fuse to blow. Dam it, they were working fine before I took them off the car.
Thanks all for your help.