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Hey, I've got an rb30 GQ manual.
When I turn the key, the motor doesn't turn over straight away - I get a slight whirring sound, but not the normal starter sound. I then get a loud clunk, followed by the starter turning normally and the motor starting.
I've swapped batteries to rule that out, and the connections to the starter are good.
Does this sound like an issue with the starter motor?
The solenoid could be sticking. Give it a few taps with a hammer see if this helps. I remember my old MK had similar issues. I removed the solenoid and pulled it apart, cleaned it up and lubed up the solenoid piston, if you call it that, with some lmm grease and was all good.
Sounds like the solenoid is not throwing it out properly, so yes starter probably needs some love or replacing.
Agree with Rossco and mudski, but important to do it as it could chip or damage teeth on the ring gear on the flywheel.
Yeah, Agree with the guys above. Remove the starter motor and lube the plunger in the solenoid and the pinion gear on the the shaft in the starter motor.
Smack it wiff a 'ammer... worked on every Holden I ever owned.
Thanks guys. She's due for some love anyway. Still have to find my disappearing oil leak.
And after you've done that, give the starter motor a smack with the hammer too:)Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Please give me feedback on how you removed the RB30 starter, TH, as well as what you did to repair it.
That way I can post it in the sticky thread.
No worries mudnut, will do. Might be a while until I get to do it though.
What disappearing oil leak?!Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
Went for a fourby in Toolangi before bubs came along. Airing up at the end of the trip, noticed some oil had dripped down onto the diff. Got under and had a look, and seemed to be coming from the front passenger side corner of the sump gasket area. Could have been dripping down the Timing cover, with the dirt and mud from the trip was hard to tell.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Got it home, gave it all a good wash and took it for a drive locally hoping to give me a clearer picture of where it's coming from - but now it won't leak!
Sure enough, if I go any decent distance it will decide to empty itself out, so want to track it down before the next trip. Thinking it's possible that maybe the oil moves to the front of the sump when I go down a hill and leaks out from either the sump or some other seal, so I need to find a steep hill near home to confirm my suspicion.
Frustrating.
Is there any oil on the back face of the harmonic balancer?
Tell tale sign harmonic seal worn.
If it's only on long trips, it's the oil getting hot/thin enough to pass a seal one would think.
What brand & grade oil are you running?.
but your statement, Emptying out, sound like more than a drip, whats the go there ?
If it was coming from the front of the engine, the timing belt would surely be soaked or at least show signs of contamination. and since there is no seal between the belt and balancer there would be oil or oil soaked dust on the bottom of the cover.
Well, if I hear you correctly, I would stop driving it right now and get to the bottom of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
Oil vanishing into thin air is a serious concern for a relatively younger engine.
I would drain the oil completely and have a good look at the oil, whether it has too much soot in it or not.
Use 20/50 and see how it goes. I remember during central oz trek, mine did the same thing when I put 10/30(or 15/45). By same thing, I meant oil level dropping rapidly without any leaks. I experimented with 15/45 during this summer for local errands. The oil level did not drop, other than blowby getting worse. So, I reckon worn out engine/thinner oil/higher rpm longer drives is not a good combination.
And if you happen to be doing the front crank oil seal, make sure to apply enough HTB on the lips of the seal as well as the shaft, and be gentle with it. I had to do the whole damn thing all over again 'cos the seal lips went in crooked. Watch using a mirror to make sure seal's properly in, but not too far in by forcing it too much.
And it's probably a good idea to go for the original Nissan oil seal.
Haven't had a look at the balancer to be honest, but thanks for the tip, I'll check it out! There was a decent size patch of oil on the diff as a result.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
As for oil, I'm running whatever was in the factory manual. Can't remember off the top of my head though.
I'll have a look at this. Hopefully not much work to get the cover off. Would the oil soaked dust be on the outside of the cover? Or would it pool inside of it?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
It's not my daily, it's been sitting in the backyard since that trip - barring the drive to the carwash and around the block trying to get it to leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
It's not vanishing into thin air though. The oil level on the line isn't dropping since I got back from Toolangi - and the slight drop in level on the dipstick for that trip I'd account to the leak.
Thanks for the tip! Hoping it doesn't come to that, or, well, whatever ends up being the easiest solution anyway haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Easy peasy to get the top cover off, Just the crappy bolt (into the block behind the distributor) which holds the vacuum pipe bracket is a PITA.
What type of oil was it, Not P/S fluid or A/C oil? The breather on the diff could've popped off too.
Nah, breather was fine and it didn't come with AC. Could definitely see oil around the front passenger side of the sump.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I did check the P/S, it was dry at all the joints and fluid level is at the top line as usual.
Thanks for the info about the top cover. Don't really know which outcome is best at this stage haha
Well, I'm officially at a loss.
The starter motor is working fine again. Guessing maybe there was some crud that got in after some mud, and it's good again now. Didn't bother to pull it off as it looks like it's in a PITA spot for a big bloke like me.
As for the oil leak, well, your guess is as good as mine. Back of the harmonic balancer is clean, as is the timing belt. Took it to a couple of local spots and put it on some rude angles and it's not leaking anywhere I can find and I'm not losing any oil. I keep 6L of oil in the back and have racv so I'll just drive it until it worsens a bit so then I know what to fix.
For some dumb arse reason I was thinking you had tb engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
the beauty of the RB30, plenty of aftermarket spares and performance parts. Gear-reduction starters are best.
What is the reason for "gear reduction starter are best"?!Quote:
Originally Posted by LostBenji
Less strain and lower amps drawn on start up.
True, but atm, I'm enjoying the R31 starter on mine. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Even with a weaker battery, it cranks like hell.
With the upgraded alternator, i reckon it's ok?