I want a gq without a computer system either petrol or diesel is it possible to buy an injector pump without the electrics .prefer if i could get one to fit my current zd30 so i dont have to swap it for a gq
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I want a gq without a computer system either petrol or diesel is it possible to buy an injector pump without the electrics .prefer if i could get one to fit my current zd30 so i dont have to swap it for a gq
A TD42 injector pump from a GQ is totally mechanical with no computers or fancy electrical gizmos.
I can't imagine getting it to work for your ZD30 though.
All 4.2 diesel gq are mechanical. So are all gu td42s.
A zd30 pump is even mechanical....
Isnt Zd30 controlled by the computer whats all the wireing coming out of it . And cant the computer make it pump more fuel in making the engine run hotter ?
The pump is still mechanical with some basic electronic functions on it. It will basically only control fuel metering by reference to ecu inputs. Some of those wires are also for the nats (anti theft).
You would have to have significant issues with egt control, power and smoke to be causing water temperatures to rise.
As soon as temp starts to move i stop quickly to let it cool i havnt gone over 3/4 yet
Can these wires be bypassed
No. And like the other thread I dont think this is your problem. Happy to be proven wrong.
If it was fuel causing your issues then you would have the problems I stated in post #5.
Possibly you have already made your mind up about what to do with the vehicle and you are hoping for an answer that you want to hear? If this is the case then move the vehicle on and buy a TD42 GQ wagon (which wont be a ti or auto), with no electronics.
So if theres no smoke theres no extra fuel
So if its not fuel what else might cause it to jump up so quickly .im talking 100 200metres up the range .its not gradual Like a mechanical thing its more instant like a switch going on.Weather i keep it or sell it i have to fix it .
So your having over temp issues and trying to problem solve?.
Yes but i should have kept all the info in one thread its getting to much for me to keep track of getting confused and flustered
Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
series III went to electronic Injector Pump - when they added the turbo to them
That sounds more like a sender unit or possibly the gauge.Quote:
Originally Posted by landy96
There is no way the 'actual' coolant temp is changing 'like a switch'.
There is too much mass involved IE it is a big heat soak and it all has to be heated.
If it is overfuelling heaps then there will be a lot of black smoke out the pipe
Its not really fully electronic. There is a very tiny portion of the pump which is altered with electronics. The internal timing is altered using a solenoid and a pulse signal which moves the timing piston. Even then the solenoid is only opening a passage allowing the internal pressure to do the work. On a full mechanical this is done with pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigcol
The rest of the pump is still mechanical, the injectors are also still mechanical. The pump will still work as required without the solenoid plugged in.
Even a common rail still has a mechanical pump. This is regulated at the fuel rail and sometimes also with a suction control valve.
The regulation is electronically controlled and so is the injection event. Just like an efi petrol but at much higher pressure.
Its not the gauge cause thats what happened when it blew up
Just before the top of the range after letting it cool at the last pullover spot the temp jumped really fast to 3/4 and i stopped in a cloud of smoke and it ran like crap and sounded terible being in a dangerous spot i crept to the top and stopped giving it half an hour to cool i checked the oil and water it took heaps of both water was not in the oil though assuming motor stuffed we crept home rad cap loose ..
Next day had to move it under a tree for repairs ..
Loud banging noise trying to start after starting went to move and a louder bang coming to a sudden stop .shes stuffed..
Problem is the temp jumped realy fast but i had stopped quickly and it only went to 3/4 when it blew so whatever caused this is still here in the new motor ..
So has it got to be in the parts that has gone back on this new motor ????
Well beats me then... has the Cooling system been burped?
Only thing that I can even think of that would do anything like those symptoms IE an extremely rapid rise in temp is steam
So whats burped .bled i assume . I keep checking and topping up waterthe next couple days if it needs it after mucking with water.
Steam ah ..warming and cooling 3 or 4 times up the hill ????after that is when the temp jumps
'Burped' is parking the beast nose high (even on ramps will do) and run the engine with the cap off the rad.
RE the second part of your post... are you losing coolant?
No not loosing any coolant ... which wày would you go with the needle and dawes to make egt lower .. i now it wuoldnt be much but it might help
I wouldn't fit a Needle and Dawes to a Prado but then I had a CRD... the guys that have them on Di's will know and Mudski is a guru if you want to PM someoneQuote:
Originally Posted by landy96
Is it possible when it has gotten hot at some stage, that any scale from within the block has loosened up, thus blocking up your radiator somewhat.
Just putting it out there as one of many possibilities.
in his other thread about this over heating, he has said he put a new radiator & 3 thermo fansQuote:
Originally Posted by Robo
So this radiator should be ok then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigcol
Humm ok try this,
when I recently did my injector pump upgrade, turbo and injectors the mechanic that fitted the pump and tuned it mentioned to me off the cuff about how he blocks off the thermostat bypass port and fitting a standard type thermostat instead.
and I quote him " Its to solve the td overheating issues ".
He taps the port and fits a plug in it to seal the port off permanently.
Maybe that can sort it. cheers.
New radiator had rad sock fitted at same time.
So i need details and photos on blocking of the thermo bypass does anybody in brisbane do this or can i do it myself
somebody said i can leave the solenoid disconected from injector pump
Do i just unplug the injector pump??
What is a rad sock?
Do not touch anything on the injector pump!!
Pretty sure a rad sock is a radiator sock. It's used to restrict flow. Think it sits on the top tank. My brothers big block chev had one when he brought it. Don't really understand the purpose behind it.
Sent from my XT1033
If this is the case it wont be helping the issue. A stupid big 4 core radiator with 3 thermos on it and a rad sock. Its no wonder it is struggling.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Ok not to step on any toes here but imo there are 2 options..
You've either fitted a second hand motor that's close to pulling the pin already..
Or
You've over done everything so much it's now hindering itself..
And the very conservative 500 egt max probably isn't helping..
Again I think what was posted in the other thread is spot on..
You've made up your mind now fishing for the answer you wanna hear..
Imo strip off 2 of the 3 fans and fit the mechanical one back in..
Nissan only fit 1 fan and that's as a back up and to assist the ac condenser when on..
Keep the boost set to 18psi as yes they run better slightly higher (disregard my other post in the other thread as I thought for some reason you had a crd)
Get an aftermarket water temp gauge fitted as the factory ones are at best a rough guide..
80-90 degrees is quite normal.
100 is getting up there and should back off..
110 pull over..
Same with egt's
450-550 quite normal
600-650 back off
700 pull over..
If you've fitted a quality radiator, have boost set to a nice level (which you have), water pump and system is all in check then you shouldn't have an issue..
I guess one question I don't think has been asked is how are you tackling this hill??
It sounds big..
But are you sinking the boot to the floor in 5th or are you dropping back to 4th and cruzing up at less throttle?
You gotta remeber there only a small engine hauling near 3T and bigger tyres and roof racks etc only make it worse..
Pretty much agree with what they said ^^^^
Take out the Rad Sock and turf it as far as you can off the top of the range.
The 'factory' cooling set up, assuming no faulty components, on the ZD30's is good out of the box... thousands of them pull grey nomads and their vans all around the country so Thermo Fans etc aren't the answer IMHO.
The TD42 and ZD30 cooling systems are as different as chalk and cheese.
Don't go by any comparisons or fixes on one as they don't apply to the other
Out of curiosity wtf is a rad sock?
Original motor stock standard was running hot and getting hotter up the range .. bang ..the replacement motor did the exact same thing stock standard thats why i changed every thing ...?
Second hand motor bought .claimed to have been recond done 25000ks sat for a time and looked yuk inside from old radiator water .that is what a radiator sock is for to stop any shale or crud blocking the radiator . Have always used them 40 years same as my father never had a broblem just clean and replace them when required .usually 12months with new fluid .
I go up the range very conservative light footed 60 ks max usually 40ks .this is not in the heat of the day. I travel up very early morning or at night .
I luv our gu its set up is right for us . we dont realy want to go back to a gq . I am even considering buying a donor gq for a replacement 4.2 motor with all the parts needed for a change over but i dont have the funds for that option either.i have not made up my mind at all .. im old school and i have always set up my 4x4s to handle hot weather easily
Apart from a passing remark from Robo i haven't seen the word thermostat mentioned.
What're the odds?
It has. Been replaced apparently.Quote:
Originally Posted by Touses
Yea multiple threads going..Quote:
Originally Posted by Touses
Read this tread from the start, didn't realize or simply missed there was a 'separate thread" on the same subject.Quote:
Originally Posted by Touses
These engines have been designed for std coupling fans, not thermo fans, so x3 on that, ditch em.
Yep for the hwy towing you do, std type arrangement should do the job .
Yes people run thermos but that's generally 4x4's slugging alone tracks etc with no wind speed coming through the front grill, on the black top that's not the case.
You can up grad the radiator, no probs, this will give you a larger level of cooling capacity, reserve more efficient etc not necessarily solve a problem.
Question ,do you have something like a bug screen on the front blocking air flow?.
Are you running additional spot lights? how many?
Do you have fitted the extra wide mud flaps on the back, these can contribute to poor air flow exit under a car, thus in turn reduces what can come into the front end.
And the sock it's restricting flow through the rad for sure.
Have you removed the thermostat also, wrong move there if so.
Dads car was probably running a fixed direct drive fan?, with max air flow, regardless of car speed, so this may explain the dif there.
so many possibilities given the list of potential causes here I agree get back to standard type setup.
comes off a little blunt, most certainly Not talking down, intentions are only to help ya mate.
Perhaps the other thread, can't see it here.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Even so there has been endless suggestions that a new thermostat be tested. Was it done?
1. A really cool Sock what all your hipster mates look at when you wear it and say, "Whoa, what a rad sock man"Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
2. A filter you put in the top radiator hose (usually) to catch shit before it blocks up your Radiator cores
3. A really shit idea that restricts coolant flow thru your cooling system
I tried it all standard and it got to hot at low speed under 40 kph going up range gets hotter faster at 60 kph thats why i went thermo fans for low speed hill climbing towing 8x5 trailer .it doesnt get hot on the highway towing trailer. It will be used for slow sloging towing trailer through tracks up north for holidays ..1 roofrack 1 light bar no mud flaps standard 32 inch tyres .
Tried three thermostats so far all tested and opened...that was first change from standard..then tried bigger radiator no change .. then went thermo fans still no change . Before going bush i fitted a very course high flow bug mesh . no change . I really do appreciate all the suggestions and help offered . Burping sounds good . Also curious about the suggestion of block the bypass for thermostat . Sorry for to many threads. Can anybody fix that.
AFAIK blocking the thermostat bypass is an old school thing for a different cooling circuit...
Doing it/trying it on a ZD30 might prove pretty spectacular.
I haven't seen it done but thats because cooling isn't nearly the issue with ZD30's that it is with TD42's
Maybe someone has done it and can post up...
Sorry whats an( afaik )
Like to hear about the blockoff ?anybody