Koni 82's - Brake line spacer front passenger side

Printable View

17th February 2016, 07:45 AM
MyGU8

Koni 82's - Brake line spacer front passenger side

Hi All,

I received a spacer kit CH0001 with my Koni 82 shocks.

I believe this goes between the brake line and the backside (engine side) housing at the wheel.

I am not sure how a spacer can be fitted without draining the brake fluid.

Can someone please shed some light...

Thanks
17th February 2016, 08:23 AM
happygu

Quote:

Originally Posted by escix

Hi All,

I received a spacer kit CH0001 with my Koni 82 shocks.

I believe this goes between the brake line and the backside (engine side) housing at the wheel.

I am not sure how a spacer can be fitted without draining the brake fluid.

Can someone please shed some light...

Thanks

Not sure about the spacer ... I run Koni 88's, which are the same size or even slightly bigger, and I don't have a spacer ?
17th February 2016, 08:34 AM
MyGU8

Quote:

Originally Posted by happygu

Not sure about the spacer ... I run Koni 88's, which are the same size or even slightly bigger, and I don't have a spacer ?

It says for vehicles equipped with ABS
17th February 2016, 12:02 PM
MyGU8

4 Attachment(s)

I believe it is to go here...!

edit: a better version of photo:

Attachment 64932

Attachment 64929

And these are the info

Attachment 64930

Attachment 64931
17th February 2016, 01:44 PM
happygu

OK - now i know what it is....

I didn't need one in the front - only in the rear, and you most likely don't need it anyway, but the bolt that holds the brake distribution block to the diff can be undone ( no loss of brake fluid ), and then insert spacer underneath, and use the new bolt to re-fix.
17th February 2016, 02:00 PM
threedogs

some use a longer plate , is that right??
17th February 2016, 03:18 PM
MyGU8

I was also told that running with stock springs in 2" lift shock is dangerous as the springs may pop up if the wheel drop in a pot hole or something.

I know it is possible but what would be chance of this happening though...!
17th February 2016, 03:22 PM
Clunk

Quote:

Originally Posted by escix

I was also told that running with stock springs in 2" lift shock is dangerous as the springs may pop up if the wheel drop in a pot hole or something.

I know it is possible but what would be chance of this happening though...!

Nothing that a few cable ties won't fix [emoji12] hahahahaha
17th February 2016, 03:41 PM
threedogs

Quote:

Originally Posted by escix

I was also told that running with stock springs in 2" lift shock is dangerous as the springs may pop up if the wheel drop in a pot hole or something.

I know it is possible but what would be chance of this happening though...!

That will mainly happen on big lifts and extreme angles.
You should be right IMO,
You can fit limiting straps but really not required for a 2" lift
17th February 2016, 03:44 PM
MyGU8

Thanks TD, that was comforting...
17th February 2016, 05:03 PM
BigRAWesty

So basically if you've fitted 3" shocks into a 2" lift you'll first up need to extend your bump stops before you turn those lovely new tubes inside out..
If your worried about brake line length then it's probably a good idea to upgrade to a longer line.. while your at it a braided kit..

But if they are shocks suited to a 2" lift then I can't see the issue..
Stock lines are fine but fit spacer if you like..
All you'll do it undo the top bolt, remove bolt, lift block and insert the spacer and insert new bolt..
No need to bleeding or draining etc..
2 min job..
13mm spanner or socket.
17th February 2016, 06:30 PM
MyGU8

Quote:

Originally Posted by biggqwesty

So basically if you've fitted 3" shocks into a 2" lift you'll first up need to extend your bump stops before you turn those lovely new tubes inside out..
If your worried about brake line length then it's probably a good idea to upgrade to a longer line.. while your at it a braided kit..

But if they are shocks suited to a 2" lift then I can't see the issue..
Stock lines are fine but fit spacer if you like..
All you'll do it undo the top bolt, remove bolt, lift block and insert the spacer and insert new bolt..
No need to bleeding or draining etc..
2 min job..
13mm spanner or socket.

It's only 2" shocks with stock coils.

I was also thinking the same on braided lines. Not checked any prices yet, if affordable will get it done. I heard that the brake response better..!

As it involves removing the existing lines it would be a mechanic install not mine, so I need to include that price too.
17th February 2016, 07:32 PM
BigRAWesty

Quote:

Originally Posted by escix

It's only 2" shocks with stock coils.

I was also thinking the same on braided lines. Not checked any prices yet, if affordable will get it done. I heard that the brake response better..!

As it involves removing the existing lines it would be a mechanic install not mine, so I need to include that price too.

Safe Brake (sponsors) I think we're very affordable..
I think Winnie got a set.
17th February 2016, 09:23 PM
happygu

I went to a brake place and had approved custom covered braided lines for around $50 - $60 each, depending on the length.

I didn't get all of mine done - only the main lines, and I then waited for my 40k service and fitted it just before, as I thought that if I missed any air in the lines, they were about to get new fluid throughout anyway. Easy enough to change over - just need the right spanners. If you do it yourself, make sure that you that you use the flare nut type spanners, so you don't round off any of the nuts or fittings.

Make sure that you add some extra brake fluid to the master cylinder, remove the old, and attach the new at the body end first, and let the fluid gravity drip through to the bottom end then connect the bottom end, and bleed brakes normally. This will keep air to a minimum.
17th February 2016, 09:30 PM
MyGU8

Quote:

Originally Posted by happygu

I went to a brake place and had approved custom covered braided lines for around $50 - $60 each, depending on the length.

I didn't get all of mine done - only the main lines, and I then waited for my 40k service and fitted it just before, as I thought that if I missed any air in the lines, they were about to get new fluid throughout anyway. Easy enough to change over - just need the right spanners. If you do it yourself, make sure that you that you use the flare nut type spanners, so you don't round off any of the nuts or fittings.

Make sure that you add some extra brake fluid to the master cylinder, remove the old, and attach the new at the body end first, and let the fluid gravity drip through to the bottom end then connect the bottom end, and bleed brakes normally. This will keep air to a minimum.

Thanks HappyGU, much appreciated.