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Need to run power to the roof rack for the light bar plus 2 work lights and a hunting light that is removable..... was almost thinking of mounting one of my solar panels to the roof.
What is the best way to do this as far as not having unnecessary wires running to the roof eg: earth...???
Photo is for affect..... ha ha ha ha
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...z/DSCF0130.jpg
Probably not good for your spine to have all that weight on your head mate?
I'd be interested in this too. I've thought about it before and thought about running one thick twin core power cable to a jaycar enclosure mounted on the roof rack and then having some relays to switch individual lights. You could either run some 7 core trailer wire to switches or use a wireless relay setup
Something like this
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/261572893374
Though you'd need something that could do higher current or use it to switch an automotive relay.
I see two advantages to do it this way.
1. You only need to run one twin core power wire to the roof. One for Pos and one for neg
2. You can turn the work lights on remotely while away from your car
I have heavy 8mm figure 8 for my light bar and
I ran some 7 core trailer wire for some leds .
Did you get it up on the roof yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Come on surely more people have done this... Shameless bump
Yeah its not a white GU 3lt with a problem with its MAF.........lol
When you do this BA I'll give you a hand if you want. We can use your car as a prototype for mine ha ha
I might start looking at enclosures that will fit approx 4-5 relays and a means to distribute the neg and Pos feeds. Just need a solution to switch the relays
Any one got a good suggestion or as above is it 7 core trailer wire to run to the roof as well or the wireless ones?
fingers crossed its going on today, then next week I'll wire up the indicators and DRL lights I have up topQuote:
Originally Posted by 4bye4
plus a couple of number plate lights to hi-light a name plate
Only using the trailer wire for the small LEDs bugger all power required
Would be interested in seeing the finished product
Long time coming but will have all hands on deck at 1 to lift it on.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucus30
I have a 27watt led flood light at the rear, I'll be running some 6mm
in through the back door to a switch near the pop out panel.
My awning light will be revised I did have LED strip but I think the cob led are better
and smaller, and produce a heap of light
I would run the 7 core and a single 50amp (or less) up the snorkel and onto the roof rack. Also an earth strap from the body to your rack. Earth each of the lights to their own mount on the rack.
Only the light bar will need the bigger supply and the big wire will do that. Doing it this way will leave all your relays off the roof. Run the 50 amp to the relay under the bonnet or wherever you have that set up.
Using a gland you could enter the snorkel at the bottom and lay your cables in core flute inside the snorkel the exit the inside back face of the snorkel at the head.
I can't see why you would need to risk putting relays exposed on the roof.
They would be in a water tight metal enclosure. I've seen it done before and it looks fantastic would hardly know it was there unless you were looking for itQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Agree...Quote:
Originally Posted by lucus30
I had mine in a black placcy enclosure with an O ring seal (Jaycar, DSE or similar) and used cable glands for the wiring entry.
It was behind one of the rack mount feet against a cross bar so looked factory if you even noticed it
Works great.
If you use relays then no need for wacking great 7 core trailer wire either.
I used data cable, flat or round doesn't matter.
I want to get the roof lights sorted before the trip.... i need diagrams for my brain to cope.
How many lights are you running and do you want them switched separately?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
Yep switched separately... one 40inch light bar... a pair of work lights then a hunting light that is only on when hunting and is a lightforce 240 hid..
I ran the wiring for my 2 reverse lights on the roof rack from the drivers door roof rack mount into the door jam in the door jam seal. i earthed each light on its mount on the rack so i only had one cable running back along the rack and then earthed from the bolt in the picture to just behind my rear trim and worked a treat, you wouldnt even notice it there unless your really looking for it.
Hopefully this helps a bit
Attachment 58901
Running a sheithed 7core from the relays up to the lights as the supply wires would be fine though. I understand the switching side can be very light cable and you can buy a purpose made water tight junction box from jaycar but it seems like allot of bother to me dealing with that on the roof. The singles in the 7core will handle the load of any light that is on the roof except the light bar.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucus30
7 core is not what I would call Big though ET!Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Might want to terminate the Light bar with a 50 amp Anderson plug for easy removal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
Mine was/will be cable tied to the roof rack. This will make it easier to remove the light bar.
I am going to try out these remote relays but with the light bar and hunting light I will need another 2 relays of higher amps that are triggered from the small remote relays.
Now a question that I asked earlier but seems to have been over looked was the solar panel.. is there a way that the lights on the roof can share the power cable coming from the panel????
The panel will top up your AUX battery, you cant run lights directly from the panel
your lights need to be powered by a battery then the panel charges your battery.
Dont run any of the lights from the start battery use the AUX thats what its for.
OOI what size is your AUX battery in AH ?
EDIT; If you have a 100amp alternator you might
want to think about a triple battery set up.
I dunno about those wireless relays mate, I think you'd be asking for trouble with them.
I disagree, I run all my lights of my main battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I use a pretty simple rule... anything that will be used while the engine is running comes off the main battery, and anything that would be used while the engine is off will be off the aux battery.
BA is running extra lights in remotish areas if hunting and the last thing you want is a knackered start battery.
, both systems will work , is more your alternator being able to keep up whats being used I suppose
Hunting light only is in use while the car is being driven..... even the work lights are for use while car is running.
whats the panel for to top up batteries during the day ??
I'll just ask matfew ..... just thought i would have a discussion here..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
Bwahahahahah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?????????????!!!!!!!!!
Yeah crazy i know!!! Should have bought a white gu.. meh.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nisshead
Yeah mate you can use the same power cable though youd want it regulated. Better of separate so you can put the regulator closer to the battery
Ive got a waterproof box under my roof cage which has 3 relays in it for all my roof lights (I'll eventually get around to hooking them all up, only got the front lightbar done at the moment. Has a main power feed which runs up along snorkel to the box and distributes from there. All 3 relays run back into the cab to switches. Ill grab a photo tomorrow and post it up.
Sounds good mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by BROWNY42
BA if you do want to go those mini wireless relays, it might be best to do some googling and see if you can find some reviews. All I did was pick a random one off ebay
Wireless relays arrived yesterday..
See if I get time to fit them up this weekend..
Ooo sweet following this one. Looking forward to your feedbackQuote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
When /if you come up with a nice neat install and idea and it works please post because I've thinking the same issue I'm at the point of about to just a few cables in conduit and try to hide the fact I've got cables all over the roof rack.....would still be better than previous owners wiring coz it won't be terminated with leccie tape
Wasted the day with this stuff... could not get it to work properly and was frustrated to the point of pulling what hair I have left.
Could not get the remote to switch the relay... searched and searched online and nothing that I could find would help.
Where is the bottle of wine gone to... she has hidden it from me hasn't she??
Come to my place, we have mucho wino =)
Hmm not coolQuote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie