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Gday all
Its been a while since ive been on here.
Just brought myself another Patrol with More issues than the last one.
I got over trying to repair the last one so i thought i would buy a later GU 03 4.8
it seems to have no power and very jerky in 3rd.(bunny hops)
Ive changed the fuel filter air filter and put a new pump in and still no good.
Any ideas before i give up and buy a toyota?
Where are you located?
O2 exhaust sensor, maf sensor can cause power loss if they're faulty
X 2 clean any sensors and /or check all your vacuum hoses
Have you checked for fault codes?
is there a way you can do this without spending millions on a machineQuote:
Originally Posted by jff45
IE computer leds?
ive checked the temp sensor for the ecu ive heard that these can cause issues. trying to find out what resistance they are meant to be.
Mine is 11ohms cold 11.8 ohms hot.
Located in perth mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by GUte
Any way of checking these without a machine?
is it worse when hot
Have you thought of taking it to a Mechanic ????
I have just read my workshop manual on your motor ,
and could find no reference to those values you posted
^^^ what Bob said.
I'm by no means anything close to an expert on these things but the 4.8 is normally a very reliable donk. I'll assume it is an auto and say that I can't see how a bung engine is going to create a "bunny hop" in a specific gear, especially with the auto.
I would be thinking driveline somewhere. Is it only 3rd that this happens? Does it happen in 4WD, or 2WD only? How long has it been happening? Any other circumstances you can think of?
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
As for the bunny hop when was the last time the Auto if you have one was serviced
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob
I agree! If it is just a fault code thn the mechanic will take an hour and your done. I had issues with an XR6 a few years ago and it lost all power after having LPG fitted. Was a slug!! Took it back to the LPG installer and he reckoned it was fine! I could not get it to spin the back wheels of the Ute on a dirt road going up hill when it was empty!!! Was nuts! Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer. I was braced for the worst!! I had a minor service and the guy found a loom plug disconnected at the back of the engine in the first 5 minutes! Happy days!! Went like sh!t off a shovel when I picked it up!Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewboyaus
Sometimes just bight the bullet!
Found some values if thats the water temp sensor you're on about, cold 20 degrees its 2.1-2.9KohmsQuote:
Originally Posted by glennb
hot as in 90 degrees .236-.260 Kohms
There is a throttle pedal released position learning procedure. You could try disconnectng the battery to re set the ECU
in the diagnostic section if multiple miss fire check engine earths
Crank angle sensor, O2 sensors
no its a manual.
I would take it to a mechanic but what would i learn from that aside from how to quickly part with a whole heap of money.
Besides that all they do is hook it up to a machine, if it spits out no codes then they do the same as me.... throw parts at it till its fixed.
I find experience is the best key and was thinking thats what these forums are all about.
it seems to have all the symptoms of a blocked fuel filter.
ill try fuel reg next and then go down the lines of TPS and O2.
Cheers
Threedogs^^^
Thanks heaps mate. Some useful info there.
Mine tested cold says 10 ohms hot its at 11.8 ohms
Its going the wrong way for a start so this tells me it may be screwed.
Thanks heaps mate
take it to supercheap get them to plug their machine into it and tell what, if any codes are coming up. Costs around $25 i think, maybe a little more, maybe less but at least then you won't be scratching around trying to guess what it is along with the rest of us.
does the engine check light come on, does it do it straight from the bat or when it gets warm. Does it only do it in 3rd? Any particular rev range?
yer it seems to be the same cold or hot. no check engine light so that rules out the O2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clunk
Its seems more noticeable in 3rd. I think its because 3rd is the 1:1 gear. You can notice it in the other gears but not as bad.
I think the machine hookup is the way to go. Cheers Bud
Quote:
Originally Posted by glennb
You don't necessarily need them to throw a heap of time at it but an hour of their time will give you a Scan gauge, a test drive and an educated opinion. Value for money, especially if he nails it immediately which could be very possible.
I NEVER use a dealer, I do all my own servicing on both my Patrols. I appreciate what your saying but sometimes the fast lane is a good place to be!! I put up with my XR6 being a slug for 6 months before biting the bullet. Fixed in 30 minutes
Yer i agree there mate. Just been stung by mechanics before. Not sure what its like over where you are but it seems over here they see you rock up with a 4WD and just assume you have a heap of money to spend. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Im one of these guys that likes to get in and have a go too. nothing more satisfying that fixing something yourself and saving some bucks along the way.
guess thats a bit hard now days though with everything relying on computers.
Thanks Heaps for the input anyway
Cheers:)
I'm thinking while down at Super Cheap get a Max ellery manual as it shows
procedures on how the correct certain errors ,way tooo complicated to explain here
From what Ive read on the 4.8 going they are great, but a bit finicky like the ZD30 in some respects
G'day, I'm no expert by a long shot but had a similar bunny hopping thing in my old GQ TB42 many years ago. Funnily enough in 3rd gear. Ended up being a faulty (but new) HT lead. So i am thinking maybe a faulty coil pack in your case? just something else to check. Good luck!
A bit of an update for you all.
Went to 2 differnt mechanics just for shits and giggles to see what the general opinion was. turns out according to there computers that there is nothing wrong.
Everything checks out fine with no codes.
i have done a bit more playing around and found that the problem is that the computer is not advancing the timing.
its running ratarded as hell all the time. if i advance it by hand the thing goes like a rocket but ideles at about 1800 rpm.
i know in most other cars that the MAP sensor tells the computer to advance the timing and i know that these thigs use the TPS as a MAP sensor so im going down that road first. Then followed by air flow metre.
Wish me luck..... im goin in!!!
Cheers
Update V2.0
Have found the problem. timing chain is totally shot and out by 2 teeth. Hence the timing being so far retarded.
looks like i have to go genuine for a new kit though so thats gonna be one scarey phone call that ill be making tomorrow.
now praying to the nissan gods that the valves aren't bent.
Glad you've found the issue. Maybe try a few of the vendors on here like NIZZBITS (Garry), Mudski etc... For a price.
And patrolapart and adoc (i think)
Thanks guys.
Ive ale
ready contacted patrolapart via there contact us link so hope to hear back from them tomorrow.
It didnt come up with any results on the search.
gonna send Nizzbits a msg now.
Cheers
sounds to me like someone was playing around
or
had to replace the timing chain - at home - with no idea on what they were / are doing
do yourself a favour, and get a manual with pictures and some wooden wedges
when you take the cover off - BEFORE doing anything, have a look at the timing gear........ make sure the marks line up where they are supposed to
if they are ok, you will be safe to hand wind the motor over until you find the joining link in the chain
join your new chain onto the old one, and hand wind the motor over until you are back at the joining link
remove old chain, join both ends of the new chain
put it back together
THEN
take plug 1 out
scrunch up a piece of t6issue, and put it in to plug 1 hole
hand wind motor until tissue pops out - your now at Top Dead Centre
check that all the plug leads are in the right order......... you would be surprised at how many get that wrong
NOW check your timing
and
away you go...................
So my 4.8 02 auto dual fuel was giving my mate (the dealer) an absolute nightmare of a time before It was ready - First of all, someone had tried a diy timing repair and it was trash. one we sorted that, i got the whole head redone whilst it was off for a burnt valve (probably because the timing was bonkers), it ran like a dream.... Then suddely and engine light, no code on 3 different testers and it would drop revs at stop and stall not idle... it would run if you kept the revs up and when driving no drama but slowing / stopping it died....
After 3 days with an elec, 3 days with a transmission specialist it was finally decided my instrument cluster was buggered somehow, so that got replaced and bam, no worries. funnily enough my wife's old still running 99 pulsar had an instrument cluster known fault, tehre seems to have been a patch late 90's early 2000 where Nissan clusters were a bit on the temperamental side...