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I am pretty sure the set up is correct I have just been unable to get the settings correct.
The rig goes into limp mode at 2600 and 31-3200 rpms.
I have the boost set to 15 psi it runs at 10 psi at 22-2300 rpm and 100km/ph
The only part of the initial setup I have not achieved is the 1/4 inch drop at the actuator on start up.
I have replaced the MAF but still get the limp.
Any advice would be appreciated
Attachment 55785
What did you do with the needle valve? Or how did you set this up? I would wind the needle valve right in and then back it off until the rod drops your 1/4 inch or 10mm or there abouts. Then try again. Sounds like the needle valve is closed off too much.
Hey Mudski,
I started the needle valve wound all the way in clock wise so it is past the 0 mark and then start the rig. I left it for about 1 minute or so but no movt. Not sure if that is long enough? I am pretty sure that that might be the problem I am just not sure how to progress.
It has only started I the last month I had some plumbing issues with the IC but that is all good now (lost a hose clamp)
You shouldn't have to wait mate. The rod should slowly start dropping as you are unwinding the needle valve.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinger
So as mudski said, wind the needle in fully clockwise (forget the numbers on the valve). Then start the car, and slowly unwind until it drops about 10mm. Then go for a spin and see what happens.
Cheers guys I will give it a crack tomorrow and let you know how I went
shut the vacuum supply right off. Totally, start the car and slowly watch the rod drop down while you are opening up the needle valve, and stop at about 10mm. Then have another go.
Did a couple of runs today things are little more stable I will keep tweaking and see where I end up.
thanks for your advice guys
write down any adjustments you make, easier to remember that way IMO
What is your max boost???
Did 300 km today highway and light 4wd
Still getting limp mode .
Max boost is only getting to 15 psi will turn it up and run again tomorrow.
I only did fine adjustments through the needle
Although when I run in second (auto) I don't have any issues.
I've had similar issues, they way I got around it was to lower my max boost to 14psi. Now I don't get any limp mode probs, and I can't feel any difference with 1 psi lower.
Im running upto 25psi and no limp mode..
Do you have stock air box or any other mods that would help achieve those figures? Also is yours auto or manual. Mine is an auto like the OPQuote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
When my car was getting chip-dynoed, the bloke there told me something I didn't know. The limp mode is caused by a number of factors creating a certain "scenario" when it comes to air/fuel/boost/temperature side of sensors...
stock except hpd maf housing, hpd air box lid, hpd catch can...
Yeah with the hpd maf housing and air box lid you can have as much boost as you want.Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
my egt's hardly ever get over 300...
Still got the limp issue after numerous tweaks. Problem might be elsewhere I think. Would getting a dyno tune fix it?
A dyno is a waste of money, unless the person doing the dyno knows how to adjust these valves, and I'm yet to find one. Not saying there isn't...LolQuote:
Originally Posted by Dinger
So. Whats your max boost level? Does limp kick in at anytime your put the boot in or just on certain hills or ways you drive? Have you given the MAF a clean lately?
I will add, prior to me getting the HPD maf housing, I could not get anything over 16psi. And even at that I had to have a fairly slow spool up rate so I wouldn't see limp mode. It wasn't the maf as I had changed it over with no difference.
So what I'm saying is, some ZD30's just don't like boost. Drop your max boost a tad, so if your at 16psi, try and drop it by half or quarter a psi if you can. Then bring the spool up rate back up(winding in the needle valve).
Thanks mudski for the advice. I changed the maf on the weekend. The one I bought from you before xmas. I will take your advice and do the adjustments you advise. I will try it over the weekend and see whay happens. Thanks again
Well my saga is continuing. I have got rid on one point that it goes to limp at around 3200 rpm so it is getting closer to being gone a few more tweets and it should be solved. Thanks for all the advice. I will report when the problem is completely solved. Thanks again
Drop your max boost pressure on the dawes tad more. This will give you more room to play with the needle valve.
Righto now I confused I am unable to reduce the boost. The dawes is only on two threads and I am getting 19 psi. The spring looks like it is in pretty good shape not deformed or anything. Should I look at replacing it or the whole valve. I know there are plenty of guys that have got this dialed in without too many issues and I am not mechanically daft but this has me stumped. I am just unsure what to do next is there something I am missing in this process.
What I would do here is, remove the dawes, check the spring again, and make sure the spring is not binding up inside the dawes. Sounds to me it is and its not letting the tension off the spring. When you put it back together, wind the dawes in slow and you will feel the spring in there slipping on the adjuster cap, if it feels notchy, check that the spring hasn't dug a small groove in the body of the dawes causing it to catch. I get quite a few people come to me with issues like this and its just the spring causing is from the constant adjust and re adjust. You'll get it soon enough mate.
OOI have you stretched the spring in the Dawes valve, if you have try to un stretch it by twisting it slowly.
Also dis connect the battery for a while to re set the ECU.
When winding out the needle valve to set it,, it may take a few turns before the actuator arm drops,
mine did, nearly there you may be only 2 psi away from being spot on lol
He's got the new style dawes John. Well they have been around for 18 months or so. The newer style valves run a stronger spring so no need to stretch them anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Well it is getting closer still a few issues but persistence seems to be slowly paying off.
I removed the whole system this morning with out adjusting the dawes I found a few possible points of failure so I went around with a spanner and tightened all the hose clamps.
As for the actuator on the turbo I get no movement at all with it. It doesn't matter what I try. The only time there is any movement is if I do it manually. It is always hard up against the grub screw .
I am have also disconnected the battery to do a reset. I am starting to wonder if there is a problem with the auto transmission it will let me accelerate revs go up but no increase in speed. Then other times it is definitely limp mode with no increase in revs or power.
I wasnt suggesting Dinger stretch it I asked if he had then try to "unstretch it"Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
which with a little persistence is possible on the Dawes [tm] valve
OOI again what year is it and do you have a Tigged or aftermarket IC?
You crack me up three dogs. In a good way
it is 2006 and I have a HPD intercooler installed in Dec last year.
it ran fine up until I have so e hoses blow off. That was definitely operator error.
Mine blew the hose off and it ended up being the Crank position sensor.
Funny you said that sometimes I crack myself up too not often though
disconnect the battery for awhile as well,,,,, if its aCRD and
you have the EGR blocked it might need a 10mm hole in it.
but 06 is Di I think yes
Haha.
Yeah it is a di.
EGR is blocked.
I will keep plodding along and see where I end up.
Going for another test drive now will see how I go.
Well it is a most there few more tweaks slowly slowly.
still think there is something else but will get this right first
Guys should I be able to hear the ball bearing rattling around when I shake the dawes valve with the engine at idle? I am a bit confused over the fact that the actuator arm doesn't move when I turn the needle valve either. Could this be a source of issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
No mate. You have the dawes open way too much if the ball is rattling. Screw in the dawes and try the needle valve adjustment then. If no joy, the diagram in the actuator could be stuffed. The other side of the needle valve. Where is it plumbed in to?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinger
That sounds like it could be the issue.
So winding the dawes in will reduce boost?
Winding in will increase boost. Take the boost hose off the dawes as it sits now. Before you touch it again. And see if you can blow air though it with your mouth.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinger
OK if I can I guess that would be a bad thing?
so blew in valve and can blow through it.
If you can, the boost won't rise, any boost pressure will just pass through the ball in the dawes. Wind it in atleast half way and then wind the needle valve in also, right in. (To shut the vacuum supply right off) Then start the car up, and unwind(open the vacuum supply) the needle valve until the rod drops. If it doesn't drop, I would think it's either incorrect plumbing or the actuator is stuffed. Think.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinger
Cheers mateQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I will go and give it a crack.
I have double checked the plumbing a few times against the instructions you emailed the other day.
thanks again for that
Attachment 56542
So this is the set up I think it shows all the parts in the set up.
I can only get 5 psi out of it at the moment.
I put a new spring in today (thanks for the fast shipping Mudski)
I will keep fighting the gremlin just posting an update.
O.k First thing I notice is the dawes is almost upside down, sort of, lol. I may not affect anything but its best to have the dawes sitting vertically. It just eliminates the possibility of the ball not seating itself right. Next is the clear plastic hose and the Y piece you have, those plastic pieces are prone to crack and leak. The plastic hose I take it goes to a boost sensor or something?
Can you take a pic of the other side of the intake hose? The needle valve is hiding the plumbing behind there.