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Hi guys.
I'm about to pickup my Trol.
Would there be anything that you would do first, Yeah yeah i know take it off road into the mud!!
I mean like modification wise.
What would you do start with: exhaust, liftkit, muddies and so on.
Or do i need to start under the hood, intercooler fan, catchcan, EGR blockingplate.
Think budget, i'm just staring so please be gentle. :p
It all depends on what you want from the car firstly. Also what is it, petrol, diesel. If it is the 3l crd. A good place to start would be nads, then would suggest lift and some tyres into exhaust and chip. Is it an extreme toy, or heavy duty tourer/ daily????
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Ok have just read your intro so yeh imo start from there and you will be very surprised at how capable they can be.
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Hi dennis77 I cant really comment as I'm kinda in the same position and interested in what people suggets (mech wise) anyway. Will be watching this thread for sure
First thing to do is to own it & use it for a while after which you’ll have a better idea of what, if anything, you want to change. If you hadn’t mentioned ‘budget’ then of course there’s all sorts of stuff you could throw money at. Others (& you) may not agree with me, but I reckon doing mods just for the sake of doing them, rather than because they are needed is not very smart.
EDIT: That said, I’m picking up $700 worth of gauges tomorrow to fit into the pillar pod I got last week, all to suit the 3” ceramic coated exhaust system I’ll be getting fitted shortly. LOL
Hi Dennis
As stated above drive it for a while and see what it's like.
I bought mine early December fitted a canopy and set off
for Melbourne ( I'm located in Perth } After the trip the first
thing I found I need is suspension after that will see whats needed
But do a good bit of driving before you modify / change anything.
Just my 2 cents worth
Norm
Hi Dennis,
I have had my 2011 GU for around 4 months now and the first thing I did was fit the Needle and Dawes Valve, EGR Blocking Plate, Provent Catch Can, 3 Inch Redback Exhaust (a lot prefer 2.75 inch Beaudesert) and a Boost and exhaust gas temperature gauges mounted in a pillar pod. I did this really for peace of mind but have also noted an increase in performance and economy.
I recently went to look at a suspension lift and the guy at ARB told me that I am better off fitting all my accessories first like winch , drawers, roofrack etc so I can get the spring load rating correct the first time, other wise the Trol could run either too soft or too hard.
Look forward to hearing what you do first.
Cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis77
Sound advice from arb there as it will make getting the right weight much easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid
And if I ever up grade those nads will be first in the list to!! And for the same reason. Peace of mind..
First do a course and learn how to 4x4 safely, Never use a towball as a recovery device.
High on my list on what to do first is a dual battery system, then at least you can go camping
and have lights and cold drinks.
You didnt mention what you want to use the Patrol as??
weekend warrior or a tourer if a tourer weight is your enemy so avoid it like the plague
.Buy the best you can when you can its not a race.
Look at other set ups, dare I say it try to be different, to me nothing worse than going somewhere
and there are 3 or 4 Patrols exactely the same
Thanks guys.
I have it, i'm driving it, i like it, its not a cannon but i believe its unstoppable.
Yes its my daily transportation to work and back home with all the gear in it.
At them moment i'm rebuilding the drawers to fit the back so removed the rear seats seat belts and so carpet.
Measured up a 12mm plywood panel in now get some carpet and mount the Drawers in.
In the left hand corner there's enough room to build in a onboard airsystem so that's a wishlist item.
Traffic accident recorder will be fitted the weekend including a SAT tracker.
About the NADS for the Common Fail diesels is there a specific thing i definitely need to look at.
Gauges like Boost and EGR i understand but 700 for a set sound a bit expansive.
Beaudesert exhaust is already on the wishlist and a quote is on its way.
Im scared of chipping heard and read a lot of different experiences so know idea on that.
I've read about a fan on the intercooler or a high flow intercooler is that a NADS to or not?
Needle and Dawes Valve what is this and where needs this to be mounted.
Does the CRD have a EGR Blocking Plate position where to put it.
Tried to find some things but there's so much that i lost track.
Tyres 33 x ? x 17 and lift definitely 2 inch only need to find out what a good and affordable Tyre is (love a aggressive look)
Sorry for all the questions but better ask to much and be informed than don't ask a thing and don't know what i'm doing.
Cheers
CRD's are a lot more reliable than the older motors in regards to overfuelling and the grenade issue. If there is no EGR block then don't worry about Dawes/Needle valve as the CRD's are pretty good at regulating boost when standard (at least mine was). If you block the EGR then put a Dawes & Needle valve on and bypass the solenoid as you don't want the motor dropping boost thinking the EGR has opened. What they do is take control of the turbo away from the ECU and the boost tends to go up in a linear fashion along with the revs. The higher the revs and fuel use, the higher the boost. Dawes limits the max/peak boost and the Needle valve controls the spool up rate of the turbo. Google Chaz Yellowfoot and you will find out all you need to know including diagrams.
As for the intercooler, if you can't see any oil spots then it is OK (for now) and no need to rush in replacing it. If you see oil spots in the corners then it's started to leak and start saving for a better one. When I changed mine I was surprised by the improvement in low down torque. It was leaking more than I had actually thought. A couple of mates are in the same boat now and are about to change over to Cross Country intercoolers. They both reported a lack of power that had gradually snuck up on them until they were having problems towing. In hindsight they should have changed them earlier.
Thanks that's of great help.
You mentioned tyres.. 17" tyres are a little more expensive than 16s and if you have 17" factory alloys I'd be getting rid of them.
Here's some reading for you.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...-HAZARD!/page4
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...-Nissan-Patrol
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...off-at-110km-h
You can easily get 250$ per rim as for a new one Nissan want 1100-1200$ And a simple steel in 16" might be around 80$.
Money in your pocket IMO and less risk
NADS is Nissan anti destruction system. It comprises of a number of thing to help prevent the Big Bang (not quite sure of everything though). If you do a search on here you will find heaps of info. Also if you pm Mudski on here he is a vendor in the forum that deals with most/all of that stuff as well as the EGR blanking plate. Regarding the gauges obviously you get what you pay for. I have the cheap eBay ones and I regret buying them the leds don't work on the boost gauge and the EGR only works when it wants ( they are around 3yrs old though). I don't know if I would get the most expensive ones though. There is also a fair bit of info about them as well and varying opinions.
Good luck and have fun.
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