Spark Plugs

Printable View

25th January 2015, 04:37 PM
gene

Spark Plugs

I have just purchased a 1998, 4.5 liter Patrol and would like to know which Spark Plugs are recommended by the Forum.
25th January 2015, 04:43 PM
threedogs

This info should be in the archives have a search and see what you come up with.
The intro apparently isnt compulsary but its appreciated being polite and all before asking questions
25th January 2015, 04:55 PM
mjr350

NGK BPR5E-11

In my opinion don't bother with iridium or platnum plugs. They're only out there for engines that are hard to change plugs on or risk breaking expensive leads. My VY LS1 needs 100,000km iridium plugs only because changing standard plugs every 15,000km will most certainly lead to broken leads and the rear drivers side plugs are a nightmare to change. A spark is a spark.
25th January 2015, 06:20 PM
gene

Thanks threedogs. Gene
25th January 2015, 06:35 PM
4bye4

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjr350

NGK BPR5E-11

In my opinion don't bother with iridium or platnum plugs. They're only out there for engines that are hard to change plugs on or risk breaking expensive leads. My VY LS1 needs 100,000km iridium plugs only because changing standard plugs every 15,000km will most certainly lead to broken leads and the rear drivers side plugs are a nightmare to change. A spark is a spark.

What he said times 2 NGK BPR5E-11
25th January 2015, 07:15 PM
jff45

The '11' indicates that they are gapped to 1.1mm
26th January 2015, 06:50 AM
mjr350

Quote:

Originally Posted by jff45

The '11' indicates that they are gapped to 1.1mm

That also doesn't mean you should rely on the factory setting. Always double check with a gauge. Ive pulled a plug out of the box once to find that it was almost closed up.
26th January 2015, 08:37 AM
jff45

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjr350

That also doesn't mean you should rely on the factory setting. Always double check with a gauge. Ive pulled a plug out of the box once to find that it was almost closed up.

And I've seen cases (yes, more than once) where even professional mechanics have hit the side of the plug hole and closed the gap..

Forgot to mention, I gap mine to 0.8..
26th January 2015, 08:16 PM
mjr350

Is your reduced gap due to forced induction?
26th January 2015, 10:44 PM
jff45

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjr350

Is your reduced gap due to forced induction?

Impending forced induction..
3rd February 2015, 07:01 PM
gene

spark plugs

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjr350

That also doesn't mean you should rely on the factory setting. Always double check with a gauge. Ive pulled a plug out of the box once to find that it was almost closed up.

Thanks guys.
I had a good look at my 4.5 engine today and found the spark plugs. What do I need to remove to gt to the spark plugs.
Thanks Gene
4th February 2015, 12:41 AM
mjr350

Nothing from memory if you have a few extension bars and a uni joint thingy. I might have removed the intake tube but I can't remember.
4th February 2015, 09:46 AM
gene

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjr350

Nothing from memory if you have a few extension bars and a uni joint thingy. I might have removed the intake tube but I can't remember.

Thanks. I do have those things including the uni thing. I will have a go soon, Gene.
4th February 2015, 10:07 PM
mjr350

Get in and give it a go.
Try a small length of fuel hose or even garden hose as a plug starter. Put the plug in the end of the hose and locate the hole tgst way.
The humble tb45 is a piece of piss to change plugs on after upgrading from a vy one tonner with an LS1. The rear 2 plugs on the drivers side up near the booster have a few pieces of skin still attached.
9th February 2015, 06:13 PM
gene

Spark Plugs

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjr350

Get in and give it a go.
Try a small length of fuel hose or even garden hose as a plug starter. Put the plug in the end of the hose and locate the hole tgst way.
The humble tb45 is a piece of piss to change plugs on after upgrading from a vy one tonner with an LS1. The rear 2 plugs on the drivers side up near the booster have a few pieces of skin still attached.

Thanks mjr350. I will have a go soon. I think I have a bit of plactic see through through hose that will do the trick.
2nd August 2015, 02:08 AM
Chubba

Quote:

Originally Posted by jff45

And I've seen cases (yes, more than once) where even professional mechanics have hit the side of the plug hole and closed the gap..

Forgot to mention, I gap mine to 0.8..

jff45 You wouldn't happen to know the gap for lpg ?
2nd August 2015, 07:53 AM
jff45

No mate, never used LPG..
2nd August 2015, 09:38 AM
garett

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chubba

jff45 You wouldn't happen to know the gap for lpg ?

0.8 gap for lpg what i use for nearly all lpg engines
12th August 2015, 11:46 PM
jay see

Quote:

Originally Posted by garett

0.8 gap for lpg what i use for nearly all lpg engines

I send this to NGK.

*Hello,

I looked up my vehicle a 1997 GU Nissan Patrol 4.5lt and it can up with
part # BPR5EIX-11.
However I'm dual fuel and would like to know what plugs do you recommend
for me.
Thanks
John

Response.

With gas you actually go one heat range colder, the standard plug is
BPR5E-11 with the better performance iridium equivalent plug being the
BPR5EIX-11.

With yours though the heat range colder options are = standard BPR6E-11
or iridium BPR6EIX-11. If you use the standard type we recommend that
you close the gap back from 1.1mm to 1.0mm however with the iridium
option this can be done but not recommended as the ground electrode can
be broken off when doing this on these types of plugs as the electrodes
are so fine.

I hope this is of help to you.

Kind regards

Craig Young
Credit & warranty Officer