NADS question

I just had a talk to a young man at Patrolapart as we need a new alternator so while I had him on the phone I asked about the NADS (Mudski has shut up shop for holidays). He said it was too late to install the NADS as the problems would already exist in the motor so no point putting it in. So...what do you think? Is it worth going ahead with an install or just wait it out and keep our fingers crossed no cracks have formed or if they have then the motor is stable for a long time. He did say installing NADS could delay the inevitable and unless we want to pull the motor apart now and check the head etc it's still not worth it.

Big statement not all ZD30 Di fail, I have 220K on the clock and only nadded it at 185K
Not sure I'm on board with that comment,
My exhaust guy told me mine was going to blow up as it had excessive blow by Doh
If concerned get your exhaust fumes checked for coolant.
Fit your gauges set your Dawes/needle and drive the bloody thing
Never heard it being too late,
I'm hoping as a Vendor sponor here they could clear up that comment

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Originally Posted by threedogs

big statement not all zd30 di fail, i have 220k on the clock and only nadded it at 185k
not sure i'm on board with that comment,
my exhaust guy told me mine was going to blow up as it had excessive blow by doh
if concerned get your exhaust fumes checked for coolant.
Fit your gauges set your dawes/needle and drive the bloody thing
never heard it being too late,
i'm hoping as a vendor sponor here they could clear up that comment

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i did my 3l di at 171xxx and nad,ed straight up have now done 258xxx and after captains flat probably another 1200
on top of that id get it done yes could be a problem there its always a gamble but do it anyway you never know you might have a winner and who knows mine might go on this trip as well lol but hope not
weve done loveday the simpson nearim retreat nat meet in queensland canberra a couple of times now as well as taree nsw it is always in the back of my mind if you drive at 110 120ks all the time yea she might go
give it a bit of respect and it may last longer

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Originally Posted by colb62

I just had a talk to a young man at Patrolapart as we need a new alternator so while I had him on the phone I asked about the NADS (Mudski has shut up shop for holidays). He said it was too late to install the NADS as the problems would already exist in the motor so no point putting it in. So...what do you think? Is it worth going ahead with an install or just wait it out and keep our fingers crossed no cracks have formed or if they have then the motor is stable for a long time. He did say installing NADS could delay the inevitable and unless we want to pull the motor apart now and check the head etc it's still not worth it.

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Not very good advice you got there. If you already have engine damage. Wouldn't you know about it? The engine surely wouldn't perform if you did.
If the motor seems fine why wouldn't you install the nads?
Cost of a full nads setup which is catch can, gauges etc etc is around say under 1k. Thats the works.
What's a new motor or rebuild for a zd30 these days? 8k maybe?
If the motor is using oil, blowing a heap of smoke, and it looks like its on its last legs then yeah I would say dont bother.
IMHO, many resellers and workshops don't do or think its worth it just because they dont fully understand the whys and hows.

Cheers.

It is worth doing IMHO, because part of the mods is to remove the idiotic ECU control and gaining extra performance and driveability if not for anything else.
NADS won't necessarily prevent the failure once the damage has gone beyond the critical point or is fool proof (fundamental design flaw/issue remains) but give the option to be in damage control of the failure instead passively awaiting for the boom.

Regards

The damage to most ZD30 motors is accumulative – it happens a bit at a time – like erosion. It does not matter if the motor has a few Ks on it – as Mudski said – if it has no apparent damage, then why risk doing any or more damage.
I have spoken to some fairly cluey mechanics and they have trouble getting their heads around the problem, and even more so around the NADS cure. But it works, and it gives you a more reliable, more fuel efficient and more driveable vehicle. What is the down side of that?
At the end of the day it’s up to you, but make sure you do your homework and make your own mind up.

I did say that I had talked to you, Mudski, about it and that it was highly recommended when we had first bought it but he stuck to his guns and said it was too late. Anyway, I will be in touch later to get the NADS setup. I would have ordered it now so we could do it and the alternator all at one time but I just had to replace the battery in the falcon, I need new tyres and the bank balance is a bit low after Christmas. Not having much luck with our cars these days.

If I had a dollar for everytime someone told me "No amount of band-aid will help your grenade". I'd be able to afford a brand new Patrol right now!
In my search recently for a mechanic to fix my "grenade" coolant leak, few have told me what a waste of money the catch can and the EGR block are as it does jack s#it. If it's gonna blow up, it's gonna blow up...
Was sort of annoying coming from mechanics. They lost my business.

When we bought our Patrol last year, it wasn't a question of if we were to fit NADS but more of when, been happy with the results so far.

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Originally Posted by Hodge

If I had a dollar for everytime someone told me "No amount of band-aid will help your grenade". I'd be able to afford a brand new Patrol right now!
In my search recently for a mechanic to fix my "grenade" coolant leak, few have told me what a waste of money the catch can and the EGR block are as it does jack s#it. If it's gonna blow up, it's gonna blow up...
Was sort of annoying coming from mechanics. They lost my business.

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Those mechanics are either real old school and have never worked on a motor with an egr, or they are still wet behind the ears in the trade and are only saying that, because they heard someone else say it. If a mechanic said to me an egr block does nothing I would laugh in their face and walk off.

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Originally Posted by colb62

I did say that I had talked to you, Mudski, about it and that it was highly recommended when we had first bought it but he stuck to his guns and said it was too late. Anyway, I will be in touch later to get the NADS setup. I would have ordered it now so we could do it and the alternator all at one time but I just had to replace the battery in the falcon, I need new tyres and the bank balance is a bit low after Christmas. Not having much luck with our cars these days.

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Yeah we did chat. I would ignore what you were told. Unless your motor is on its way out then it's a different story. When ever your ready mate, just let me know. We'll sort out what you need and get you going bud. That thing called funds is a real pain too. Way over rated it is.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Those mechanics are either real old school and have never worked on a motor with an egr, or they are still wet behind the ears in the trade and are only saying that, because they heard someone else say it. If a mechanic said to me an egr block does nothing I would laugh in their face and walk off.

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To be fair - of all the NADS mods - this bit is not really legal. I can understand why a mechanic would be reluctant to block the EGR.

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Originally Posted by BillsGU

To be fair - of all the NADS mods - this bit is not really legal. I can understand why a mechanic would be reluctant to block the EGR.

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Reluctant, I can understand too. But to say it does nothing to block the egr, is another thing...

Hi Mudski
We have a new 2014 Titanium model patrol ( 7K on the clock ) , I wish to do what NADS I can do with out voiding the warranty what do you suggest ???
thx in advance George

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Originally Posted by HappyCamper*

snip...
I wish to do what NADS I can do with out voiding the warranty what do you suggest ???

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Catch Can would be about it and even taht I would get in writing from Nissan... everything else will affect warranty or is illegal or both.
Having said that I blocked EGR on my CRD at about 90,000 K's and took the risk IE if it blew I was either up for an engine or would have had to try and get the block out before Nissan found it and make a 'false' warranty claim
I never bothered with a Catch Can as the blow by on mine was miniscule so not worth it.
I bought a Dawes and Needle and never fitted them because after adjusting the Turbo as described in the doc's on this site the vehicle went gangbusters

My suggestion is take the Factory extended warranty out to 6 years and just drive it.
The ZD30 CRD is as reliable as any other manuf CRD engine and more than some, 4 pot Ford Rangers for example.

I had enough issues with ancillary stuff like SatNav, Alternator X 2, Belt Tensioners x 2, A/C Compressor, Intercooler etc that were all replaced under warranty after 3 years but before 6 years to more than pay for the extended warranty.

@ ET when you had your IC replaced did you ask for Nissan to replace it with a tig welded one??

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Originally Posted by threedogs

@ ET when you had your IC replaced did you ask for Nissan to replace it with a tig welded one??

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Hi mate,
Nah, I was selling it when it came off warranty so just had it changed.
It was at approx 150,000 K's and the old one was leaking very slightly but still reasonable so did it just before warranty expired

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Originally Posted by mudski

Those mechanics are either real old school and have never worked on a motor with an egr, or they are still wet behind the ears in the trade and are only saying that, because they heard someone else say it. If a mechanic said to me an egr block does nothing I would laugh in their face and walk off.

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I had my exhaust manifold off earlier this year (before any NADS) and it had quite a buildup of coke, less than 80k. Definitely a believer in EGR block for safety, other NADS for performance, Provent for MAF.
What is the down-side??

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Originally Posted by Dr Gary

I had my exhaust manifold off earlier this year (before any NADS) and it had quite a buildup of coke, less than 80k. Definitely a believer in EGR block for safety, other NADS for performance, Provent for MAF.
What is the down-side??

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Down side is your children's children health. No EGR means increase in NOx emmisions. Rudolph Diesels gift to humanity is also its cancer.
NOx emmisions are major polutants.

Cheers

Hi Evil Twin
Thanks heaps I was wondering weather to do the extended warranty , The dealer we brought it from gives a 6year warranty with it if we service it with them ( only covers so much though ) . But they also offer a further cover of additional parts if we pay a further $900 . So I take it you say pay the extra ??
I have a few issues with the car it is using 23.8 liters per 100km ( only 7000 km on clock ) , We are towing a 1.6 ton camper ( but still expected better ) . It is also sluggish we had loaded cattle trucks over taking us . I have booked it in this Tuesday for them to look at it . I have a Triton Dual cab that gets 14lt per 100km towing same camper .
But very interested in the turbo adjustment you spoke about though how do I get that info . As I did want to do the EGT & Boost gages but will look into Nissan weather it will void warranty . I have asked about catch can , The local Nissan dealer said it would not void warranty but I will get that in writing before doing so .
once again thanks for the feed back

When I had mine it was full factory warranty extension for an extra 3 years, no limits or exeptions for, I think, 1500 dollars.

23.8 litres is terrible fuel consumption... sounds awful like boost issues to me.

Buy a Scangauge, best $200 you'll ever spend on a CRD.
While ever the engine is factory you don't need an EGT gauge but they are handy.
Neither of those will have any warranty issues and on the Scangauge anything like excess fuel use, high temps, boost pressure etc leaps out at you.

I had to adjust my turbo myself because the car was heavily modified, chips, exhaust, EGR etc.
Nissan would have a Cow if they knew
Yours is factory so I strongly suggest you bludgeon Nissan over the head till they get it sorted.

The documents are known variously as the "ZD30 Reference Document", "Patrol Bible" or similar and are what you want.
It may take 25 posts before you can see them on here.

Bottom line is get a Scan gauge or equivalent and go from there
They are available on other sites but IMHO do the post count penance as this Forum is a very good one

Thanks heaps , what is the best scan gauge to buy & who from

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Originally Posted by HappyCamper*

Hi Evil Twin
Thanks heaps I was wondering weather to do the extended warranty , The dealer we brought it from gives a 6year warranty with it if we service it with them ( only covers so much though ) . But they also offer a further cover of additional parts if we pay a further $900 . So I take it you say pay the extra ??
I have a few issues with the car it is using 23.8 liters per 100km ( only 7000 km on clock ) , We are towing a 1.6 ton camper ( but still expected better ) . It is also sluggish we had loaded cattle trucks over taking us . I have booked it in this Tuesday for them to look at it . I have a Triton Dual cab that gets 14lt per 100km towing same camper .
But very interested in the turbo adjustment you spoke about though how do I get that info . As I did want to do the EGT & Boost gages but will look into Nissan weather it will void warranty . I have asked about catch can , The local Nissan dealer said it would not void warranty but I will get that in writing before doing so .
once again thanks for the feed back

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are you blowing heaps of black smoke, sounds like you have no boost at all,
Check all the small vacuum hoses one may be off from previous work done
Towing 1.6t I'd think tops fuel should be 16/100k.
A dirty MAF sensor will result in poor performance whip it out and give it a spray.
Your EGTs must be going through the roof, I'd be getting it sorted asap

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Originally Posted by HappyCamper*

Thanks heaps , what is the best scan gauge to buy & who from

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I bought an original Scangauge II about 6 years ago because they were about the only one on the market.
They are still the top end at around $180 to $200
Scangauge have an E gauge version now at 130 to 150
There are also other companies/knock offs appearing now that are about 90 to 110 and up.

I would maybe buy a Scangauge E model if I was buying again.

Don't bother with windscreen mounts etc.
Mine was a perfect fit on velcro on top of the steering column shroud