I'm trying to work out where under my bonnet I can run my winch solenoid.
I'm thinking up behind main battery beside the break booster but dam it's tight.
So please share your install.
Cheers
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I'm trying to work out where under my bonnet I can run my winch solenoid.
I'm thinking up behind main battery beside the break booster but dam it's tight.
So please share your install.
Cheers
I have a smart bar and there is heaps of room behind the bar. As mine is a wireless remote there is no problem with access. I can get under there and plug in the cable control if I have to (eg flat batteries on the remote). I isolate my winch with a switch at the battery when it is not in use.
Yea I have lots of room to on the bar but I'd much prefer it up under the for weather crap protection..
Kallen, I did a DIY thread with pics of my GU install if that helps at all..
Mine is on the bar with a relay on the ground wire. It's enough to disable the winch without cramming the relay into the engine bay.
Mate, I have a Thompson solenoid on the bar in the control box but have wired to so it can be isolated from inside the cab and I also wired in winch controls to the cab. You can still use the remote if outside the vehicle if needed but now I just send the "winch bitch" to run out the line and don't need to get my boots muddy...
LOL.
I'll take a few pics when I get out of here.
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Keen to see how you go with this - I ended up mouting my above the winch on a bracket becuase I couldn't find a nice spot that was easy to get to and wouldn't get in the way of future mods (sorry I know this doesn't help you)Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
Attachment 52469
Ok some confusion here.
My plan is to mount the controller box under the bonnet and run cable from box to winch.
I do plan on putting a switch in the cabin for isolation.
I looked under the bonnet for a location and there is not a lot of room. Add to that heat. Not the best environment for a control box. You may have miss understood me - mine is not on top of the bull bar - it's behind it. No one can see it unless they get down under the Patrol and look behind the bar.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
Having a low mount I think mine is mounted up under the top plate of the bullbar.
Like Drewboys idea so looking forward to some pics
Remember Westy, you'll get decent voltage drop between solenoid and winch if you're mounting it under the hood and from experience there are time when you need to wring every last bit of performance from that winch. You will need to upgrade the cables if you do this.
Seriously, mount it on the bar mate. I considered doing the whole under bonnet thing and just couldn't be arsed. I don't think there is a huge advantage in doing it that way.
But that's just my opinion
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What Solenoid are you running Kallen? If it is a Solid State then strip it out of the control box and mount it wherever you like. I had mine mounted to the inner guard under the Washer bottle and it worked fine there. They are sealed and fully water proof so dont worry about it getting wet or dirty.
Voltage Drop is a problem so as close as possible. My Solenoid for the GU is mounted behind the bar as already stated above and i have mounted the hand controller plug sticking out he grill. i have an isolation switch under the bonnet which cuts power to the switching side of the solenoid via a relay.
If your trying to mount a Warn control box with the 4 solenoids then bin it. buy a Solid State and be done with it.
There should be no increased voltage drop caused simply by having the solenoid closer to the battery. If the cable lengths are the same, the current will be identical regardless of where the solenoid is placed in the circuit.
Mines mounted inside the bullbar and is a warn style with 4 solenoid and has been under water countless times with no issue to date(over 5 yrs).... Touch wood lol
Touch Wood. They are a Dog of a thing for Sh1tting themselves just when you need them most.Quote:
Originally Posted by megatexture
Shut it lol your getting me paranoid lol
Mine was mounted to the winch until recently I went to use it and found it was full of gunk and stuffed so relocated the new one to the engine bay. Attachment 52487
Exactly my thoughts.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
Mine is in the exact same spot as Pokey has his ^, the other good thing about remote mounting the solenoid, is that you remove any cables with permanent 12V power going right to the very front of your car, in a accident situation, I didn't like the idea of a "unfused" heavy cable connected directly to the battery surrounded by metal.
Don't worry Troy, you've actually got to "go" 4wdriving to get stuck and need a winch (bwahahahah !)Quote:
Originally Posted by megatexture
Not true. Ive seen people stuck in all sorts of ridiculous situations. Mostly guttersQuote:
Originally Posted by 04OFF
Quote:
Originally Posted by lhurley
yeh, my mind is often stuck in the gutter :D
Daz I've got the runva 11xp setup and unit is identical to bachos.
Unsure if it's solid state or not.
In regards to voltage drop in my eyes it will happen.
Reading the specs of the winch and at stall you could be seeing 500A... And that won't go well over a few meters.
But in saying that it's either going to happen battery to solenoid or solenoid to winch.
I've already had a chat to mathew and he agrees an upgrade to 26mm would be ideal to compensate that drop.
So yea. In trying to fit that big ass hunk of crap under the hood.
Also it has the wireless option to so the module for that takes a bit of room.
I have mine mounted under the Radiator - on that pipe cross member.....
batt 1 to controller to winch
have the plug in my front bar
and the remote switch and line in / out on the dash.......
trying to see if I have pic's of it somewhere......
That winch should come with 25mm standard! Something wrong if it doesn't. I've upgraded my cables to 35mm welding flex
Yea it does. But was just making sure that the size could handle the load.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
I'll only need 3m (2x1.5m) of new cable as the supplied power cable will do winch to solenoid and the old solenoid to winch will go to the battery side.
The negative is long enough supplied to reach back to the battery, all though they suggest earthing it threw the chassis.
My Ridge Ryder came with 35mm (2 gauge) cable and I changed it all to 50mm (0 gauge) and it drops to 11.5v even with high idle.
I upped mine to 70mm2. You even work in an electrical suppliers you get it cheaper than I do., if you are going to up grade it.. upgrade the shite out of it :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Same as mine Jff45. I upgraded the cable also. Only the battery to solenoid to change now. I'm hard wiring the wireless remote receiver to the solenoid next and will fill it with resin. I have a two way momentary switch beside the gear selector and an isolator under the steering wheel in case the momentary switch gets bumped. Also the 4 pin xlr chassis mount socket is mounted in cab. So at any time there are three ways to operate my winch. No way would I ever mount a solenoid on the bar or winch again. The corrosion and shit in it buggered it fairly quickly. If it does get wet in the engine bay it will dry quickly from engine heat.
Runva 11XP specs shows cables are already 32mm2Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
Well there ya go. Should be heaps.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
Scrap the 26, I'll go 32
It's getting that way! :animierte-smilies-fQuote:
Originally Posted by 04OFF
Yeah I've done three relays over about 5 years, yet one of my mates has never done one in probably 17 years he's had the winch. Mucking around with a hammer or screwdriver to "convince" it is not good when you really need it. It's something I should swap out on my current truck. Hmmm, another suggestion for Christmas maybe? :smiley_thumbs_up:Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Is there any particular brand that we should be looking for in the solid state replacement?
Allbright is the best on the market IMO. Itis the Gigglepin brand and is what I have just changed too. A little more expensive but will work when you need it too.Quote:
Originally Posted by cgm
I have also just swapped to 70mm/sq for everything.
I am mounting my solenoid on the end of the motor and you can buy longer motor bolts to allow for it to be mounted there.
Kallen, open up the control box and I bet you will find a Solid State Slenoid inside, the ox is just packaging, feel free to strip it out if it will make mounting easier.
If I was doing a high mount I would go bigger for sure, 35mm^2 is plenty for my applicationQuote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
After seeing the few above I think I will strip it down. No need for wasted space when it's at a premiumQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
MR.. Here is the guts. Not the smallest unit around. But will be a much easier install
Well mate thanks for the inspiration.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokey
I found the perfect location.
Attachment 52528
Attachment 52529
Currently gluing the wireless setup under the same cover and I'll run it in a protective tube out beside the top bolt.
So now I have to finish bar, get cables made and wire it up.
I'm in to minds though if I'll need terminal covers. I think I will be unsure if I'll find them locally.
Brush it up with some liquid tape just do a few coats even if its just on the pos
Yea good thinking. What's that stuff like to get off though.Quote:
Originally Posted by megatexture