Don't want any tyre kickers just want anyone that's had electric eaton diff lockers .
Well it's nearly time to fit lockers in my 2000 4.2 gu patrol in the front diff for some more adventure , I've looked and like the eaton lockers ..... Love the arb lockers too but want to do a little more research from ppl who have used them and wanting to know if they have had any issues with the solenoids or 12 volt electrics
Yes I have the front done.
No I have not had any problems, solenoid or other.
Me too, never an issueQuote:
Originally Posted by P4trol
Works like a charm as far as I'm concerned.
Ok this is a tyre kick, but I read an article last night on a 07 JK rubicon that had a faulty factory rear locker ( I think they use eaton but it doesn't matter )
The fault was located at the plug where the wires had corroded.
That would be the same for any electrical connector on your car. The connectors are weather proof but given any abuse will need the occasional clean/inspection. The bonus with the electric lockers if you damage a wire it's quite simple to twitch and then solder or even just tape it up to get you through. Most people carrying elec tape with them when our and about. I liked the simplicity of the elockers with no need for seals/orings etc, just one wire and plug.Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
Yep your right except the air line is easier to fault find and repair on the trail, I'm an electrician and I've seen wiring corroded along its whole length, ever wondered why older cars lights are dim ? As I said I'm an electrician and I would not install electric lockers, unless they were free that is!
There, my opinion is over make of it as you choose. My tire kick is done
Gary, that is an excellent perspective and not one I have heard discussed before. It is well noted for my future reference.Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
But Gary,Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
What about every other electrical wire under the vehicle for everything like fuel pumps and fuel gauges ... these are very important and you don't have too many problems with modern connectors .... they are very reliable considering what we do with our vehicles - river crossings, mud holes, rocky dusty tracks, etc, etc
I don't think there is that much to worry about, especially with a good join and good crimp to start with ( the only other thing I would like to see is a bit of solder on the join, which there wouldn't be )
Mic
So basically anything electrical that is used in an environment where there is moisture you would not have. Guess you must live in cave with candles for light, and ride a bicycle for transport :)Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
Seriously, like all things, basic care and maintenance should see you right. All the "no maintenance" failures I have seen have been with air lockers, and on advice from my mechanic (4X4 dedicated) who has seen and done more than I will ever do, I now have a front elocker in my GU.
Is your fuel pump mounted on your diff?Quote:
Originally Posted by happygu
Electrical faults can be a bugger to find air leaking is easier, and when your winching your lockers won't turn off as the voltage gets low. The car in the article was a 2007 model , my air lockers have been in longer than that.
It was a jeep though!!
Pull apart a connector that's been in mud and check how much crap gets in them and strip back the insulation on a wire that's been under a car and you will find the copper has gone black over time that will reduce the wires current carrying capacity, it's only a matter of time.
My 2cw aswell is what happens if the voltage reg dies in your alternator and you have to choose lights, locker or ignition ( more for petrol motors)?? What would you choose to use up the reserve capacity of your battery ???
Just on the lockers my other 4x4 has an ARB in the rear and a Pro-locker in the front.
Give me a Pro-locker any day. ARB played up all the time. No one knew why
Air line is easy to replace if broken on the track.
Unfortunately you need to run your compressor occasionally but not all the time, so you would still need to choose unless you have auto lockers, but that's a thread hijack!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alitis007
There's another thread about auto v air lockers but like you said thats a highjack lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
I would've thought the compressor topping up the pressure in the line only running for 10 - 30 seconds would have less current draw than a solenoid constantly engaged ?? Not to mention as you did earlier wire deterioration from the oxygen in the copper oxidizing were you would need some sort of flux to clean it off so you can make a good contact point to engage the locker again if the wire broke unless you used oxygen free copper?? But that would be going off subject abit. Couldn't a broken live wire also earth out and make a spark and start a fire if its un noticed unlike if you ruptured an air line you'd hear the compressor buzzing away ??? Sorry i'm going off subject now....... Lol
@ Alitist007 a compressor may draw as much as 65ah
Thanks ppls I Also did some research , value your feedback very much
Eaton e locker it is.
Cheers fozzee63
1) The e-locker's wiring is so simple, standard wiring to a relay and then one (twin sheathed) wire down to the locker. It's not exactly hard to diagnose if there is a issue with the lockers wiring.Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
2) My winch runs from my start/Main battery, as does most people, I run everything else I add through the aux battery including the locker. I don't see how the e-locker is going to disengage with the winch running. Surely a compressor drawing huge amps is going to have more issues with the winch running?
3) I definitely understand this point, I've seen plenty of wires as you've described, usually I find it when they are exposed to the heat (near exhaust) or poorly sealed terminals/connections. There are ways to better seal and ensure you increase the life of any wire or connection if you can be bothered.
Most people would likely have a dual batt setup, usually before getting lockers. My locker runs from my Aux batt and as the e-locker only draws around 5 amps (rated at 8 amps max) I'm pretty confident the locker would stay engaged long enough to get to where I need to, and still have lights running. Let alone the compressor is going to be more of a burden on a battery than the e-locker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alitis007
Also as with any electrical circuit it should be fused, which it does comes with, so any broken live wires are simply going to blow the fuse. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Alitis007
I am an electrician too .... :tongue: , but I do think that copper oxidation, and poor connections wouldn't be a major concern for most people ...Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
I like the E-Locker, and am considering getting one for mine
As you said MOST people have duel batteries ( i don't ) but my trol has a factory vacuum locker so if a air line or electrical fault occurs i'm stuffed lol if i need a locker... Anyway everything i said was a hypothetical BUT i have seen more than once fuse holders melting and shorting internal which keep the wire live even without a fuse but thats another story. What i'm trying to say is anything is possible but when push comes to shove what do you choose electric, pneumatical or mechanical engagement!?Quote:
Originally Posted by sooty_10
Holden,Ford or Mercedes ?????
I'm a Nissan man myself Bob...... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob
I am with you LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by sooty_10
Most electrical fires occur on circuits with fuses or circuit breakers
I'm a sparky too and like the simplicity of the e-locker I have fitted. Interesting points of view posted, but none have raised any doubt about my decision. Good luck with your one mate.
Hi, this is my first post on here :)
I've had elockers front and read on my patrol for just over a year now and the front one has been playing up big time. I've spent all of today checking the electrics up to the locker and everything checks out. When I put the locker in and test it with the axle on jack stands, the locker disengages itself when I turn one tyre the other way and only seems to engage very infrequently at best. I have a strong suspicion the solenoid is cactus, so it will be a labour intensive and annoying fix. My rear locker works perfectly though :)
Is it still under warranty?Quote:
Originally Posted by Neardood1