Dirty MAF sensor and intercooler leak

Hi all
After spending the last few weeks reading through this forum trying to learn about my new ride (02, ZD30) and why it’s been lacking power, I have finally decided to get my hands dirty.


Decided to start by cleaning the MAF sensor
Followed Tony’s thred http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ng-MAF-sensors (great help mate, Thanks )

Started by unplugging the sensor then disconnected the battery, removed the two retaining screws and twist the sensor from housing, nice and easy.

I don’t think the MAF has been cleaned in years, the wire and plate were nearly black.

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After half a can of cleaning spray things looked better
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Re-assembly was easy and the hole job took less than 30 minutes

The only negative part of the job was when I removed the lid to the air box to get better access to the MAF retainer I found that the air box gasket had perished and fell apart. (looks like a trip to rare spares, Thanks for the heads up Bill http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...air-box-gasket)

While waiting for the disconnected battery to clear any error codes I thought I would have a look at my intercooler and clean some of the oil from the area.
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After a few minutes cleaning I found the oil was from a leak in my intercooler.

Turns out the engine cover has been rubbing its way through the core, not happy … I was hoping to do the NADS before upgrading the IC, need to re-work the budget.
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Spent the next few minutes siting back thinking I shouldn’t risk driving it as is and cause further damage or worse setting of the grenade. But as this is my daily drive I decided to do a quick fix and at least reduce the amount of leakage.


So a quick rummage around the shed turned up some self-adhesive weatherproofing flashing tape, I cut a thin 10mm strip and placed it across the IC over the line of holes and gently taped it down to secure it,
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then placed another strip on top to add thickness and replaced the engine cover to hold it in place.
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Then fingers crossed it reduces the leak and take a test drive.

Low and behold I think it worked …. More smoother and responsive power and better spool.

Don’t know how long this fix will last so its off to find a new upgrade IC and will do a provent catch can at the same time so the new IC stays clean from the start.

Big thanks to all who contribute to this forum and the wealth of knowledge it contains.

Regards, Heinz

Well done. Good to see thats its going better now. You can get aftermarket IC's with bigger cores in them on eBay for under $400 too.

thanks Mudski ... i'm on the hunt for an IC now

i have also noticed that the cab temp is down so i guess the EGT must be down as well, this means the flashing tape is working for now.

Rewarding and disappointing when you find something like that. Noticed my cover starting to rub on the IC core as well, I like the flashing tape as an idea to prevent it going further.

Lemo.

Do you have to disconnect the battery to remove and clean the sensor?

Hi Patrol-Guy I’m not Shaw if removing the sensor will register a fault but after reading Tony's guide he did say (later in the thread, as an afterthought) you should disconnect the battery
Tony’s thread …. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ng-MAF-sensors

I also read some were that if you only disconnect the negative terminal you won’t lose your odometer reading …. Don’t know if this is true or not as I only remembered it after I had finished

Lemo the tape is only a quick fix. if you haven't rubbed through the cor yet it would be better to put a spacer under the cover and stop it placing pressure on the ribs

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HV2002

Lemo the tape is only a quick fix. if you haven't rubbed through the cor yet it would be better to put a spacer under the cover and stop it placing pressure on the ribs

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That was my first instinct, should probably do something sooner rather than later, but than I would like a new IC :smile:

Yep a new cooler would be nice .... but the budget works better with choice rather than necessity .... the longer your IC lasts the better upgrade you can afford

nice work!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HV2002

Hi Patrol-Guy I’m not Shaw if removing the sensor will register a fault but after reading Tony's guide he did say (later in the thread, as an afterthought) you should disconnect the battery
Tony’s thread …. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ng-MAF-sensors

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Disconnecting the battery serves a better purpose. The ECU is self programming. In it's design, it has been given power to control inputs into the engine, depending on what outputs (sensors) read. The reason a dirty MAF is bad, is that the dirt on it gives a false reading. This adjusts the inputs (fuel, boost etc) basing part of the decision on the false reading. The effects can be felt in power and fuel economy and high EGT temps. Longer term this can mean engine damage. This automatic adjustment is not instant. It takes several hundred km in my estimation for the engine to 'tune' itself once, say, you clean the MAF sensor.

By disconnecting the battery you are clearing this 'learning'. Notice when you reconnect the battery and start the vehicle it runs rough for the first few seconds? It's re-learning, (I believe starting at some sort of 'mid' point of adjustment, whereas it may have been at some further reach of adjustment with the dirty MAF). The first bit of learning happens then, and it fine tunes (using your now uber clean MAF) as you drive. Less time to adjust to the correct setting - better running sooner.

Hi all time for an update on my new IC

managed to stretch the budget and get a monster intercooler from Diesel Smart (at a very good price)
placed the order Thursday and it arrived on my door Monday (fantastic service).
Spent the rest of the week looking at the thing itching for some time to do the install.
Attachment 41549

So started with catch-can install and went the provent 200. As I’m undecided on the final install position
I made a temp bracket out of some curtain rod hangers (hope the misses don’t notice)
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Plumbed up the new system with Ford heater hoses as they have a flared end that fit the provent perfectly .
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Now for the Intercooler, removed the old unit and found another reason to get out the degreaser
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Good feeling about the new IC
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Fitting was almost easy needed to move a few things and the fan was hitting on the throttle body and needed a bit of adjustment
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In total spent about 3 hours on the intercooler and thought it an absolute bonus when I started her up and nothing seemed to be wrong
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Can highly recommend this upgrade …she runs so well now … think the fan will suck small birds out of the sky.

Quick Question …. I have the fan wired in to ignition power so comes on at start …. need to hook-up a thermo for it ….. what temp should it come on at ???

Thanks Heinz

that flared heater hose is going to be handy for any future Provent can fit ups,
That IC is huge compared to OE, I have a DS IC and its not that big.
Do you have gauges fitted?? thinking EGTs will be down now.

Unfortunately no gages yet … that will be the next project .. was hoping to do them before IC so I could monitor changes

to feed that IC you'll either need the Fairlane scoop like Stropps or the A.R.E scoop like mine,
They say my scoop works at lower speeds, don't know about the wide ones, IMO I think the bulbar
interferes with the air flow over bonnet

been admiring your scoop for a while its on the wish list just need to get some more coin and make shaw the misses an't lookin

How tall is your scoop ??

I think its 76mm no dramas my missus hasn't picked it yet. lol
Blue tac some cotton to your bonnet and see what happens,
you'll be very surprised

i can already feel the diferance in scoop failure with no fan power is down and long lag between gears ... fan on quicker responce power and short lag,
fan works grate but i dont wont it on 100% of the time ... with a better design scoop i recon she will be perfect in all conditions