hi i own a 3.0lt td gu 2 whats the best way to get more power it sucks up even the slightest hill
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as its stock and i have read alot about upping the boost
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hi i own a 3.0lt td gu 2 whats the best way to get more power it sucks up even the slightest hill
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as its stock and i have read alot about upping the boost
Talk to Mudski... 3inch exhaust blah blah blah..... I dont know about cheap..... 4wd and cheap dont go together!!!!
I reckon the cheapest way would be to sell the GU and buy a GQ!!!
LOL.
Not really helpful I know, but there are a few here that have had success improving the performance if the ZD30.
As Bloodyaussie said though, there is nothing cheap about this lifestyle.
first chip and exhaust then high flow billet MAF and alloy air cleaner housing, Bigger IC.
just out of interest how quick do you think a 3 ltr would go.
I've done plenty and happy as power to tow and overtake safely.
never ever gunna be a rocket ship, and the further you go from std the more things can go wrong
Have you installed the NADS system??
You could possibly be seeing the beginning of the end.
What ECM/Chip did you purchase, did you do any dyno before/after to see actual results? I will dyno a before and after but still new wagon (only 3,000km on her so far)....Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
No Dyno, just fiddling with the Dawes valve, trying to find the sweet spot. STD they say 118Kw with a DP chip 138Kw I think.
goes hard enough for my liking, efficiency is what I'm after ,
First fit the NADS, to protect your ride
Up the boost on a GU 2 ZD30 and you'll blow the engine sure as shit sticks to a blanket and there is no cheap option for more torque.Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasWatson
The only way is more fuel and more air by more efficient intercooling not higher boost.
Indeed NADS and Dawes valve etc is to limit boost and usually at a lower pressure than what you have now.
First mods you need to do are NADS then you can work on a Chip, bigger free flowing exhaust and better intercooler.
Other alternative is to just accept the vehicle for what it is and enjoy it. They go more than OK stock off road, aren't a sprint car on road and when towing can't pull the skin off custard at RPM below 2200
I wouldn't agree that high boost kills these motors, it's heat. By having control of boost you can bring your EGTs down which in turn allows you to put more fuel in. NADS is a must.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
I'm running 18psi in mine and I rarely see EGTs go over 500°C. My probe is 50mm after the turbo.
ZD's are definitely no torque monster but in my opinion do a good job of moving a big car. There are a few guys getting really good torque numbers but as said its not cheap.
See this link for a good visual representation of boost/EGT relationship.
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/zd30-...e-help-133666/
My Brother-in-law added a manual boost controller, and said it was like adding a second chip......I think this would be the cheapest way to improve torque, or by blocking the EGR
Mic
Good link :) Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud Gecko
Might sound like a newby because I am but NADS I'm guessing is the egr block off?
I have done all that well I bought it with that done
If you go a plug and play unit like a steinbauer chip it takes 15 mins to remove it and nissan are none the wiser when you get a service done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beno
I want to find out what the nads is as I have only just bought my rig and I want it to last
Block egr, Dawes and needle valve and catch can is the basics and regularly clean your maf sensor, there are lots of threads about it you just have to look ill post up a link later if you like.
i just read snickos write up about it but i am an apprentice motor mechanic so will tackle myself with my dads help as he is qualified
how to do it all would be great though
There is a reference document that's a good read
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...rence-Document.
All these differing opinions, just read what Chaz Yellowfoot [Google] has to say about the ZD30 engine or RUMJAS
could put you on the right path, but first get the NADS in place
Thanks TD I was a bit skeptical buying a ZD but with all you guys having the same I can sit back a little and relax lol
They are just high maintenance, get yourself some MAF cleaner
from super cheap and keep it in the Patrol and the correct torx tool to remove it,
I've just ticked over 200,000Ks with no major problems other than a broken alternator
Mine has 322000 on the clock but just run into a wierd issue the engine light came on and now on initial take off had to press the accelerator twice
My dad said it's more than likely O2 sensor or tps
Sounds a bit like over boosting or limp mode needing to press the pedal twice.
Disconnect the battery for 1/2 hr or so, It will do it again until you can control the boost
as in manual boost comtroller
Search NADS are start spending..
Manual boost controller = Dawes and Needle Valve?
engine light might also mean blocked fuel filter
I changed the fuel filter and primer pump last monthQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
What fuel filter did you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasWatson
I used a repco brand one and the patrol didn't like it, engine light came on. Changed it over for a genuine one and no problems.
yeah manual boost controller is a Dawes Valve
I bought a Dawes valve today egr was already fitted, how do you guys tap into the boost hose the black metal one?
And where can I buy a needle valve in the Campbeltown area?
Seriously mate stop posting up BS.Quote:
Originally Posted by MickSib
There's a right way and a wrong way to get a manual, and your definitely going about the wrong way.
The moderators will most likely ban you and you wont get your manuals then.
Certainly is a right and wrong way and he is already on the ban list. But I'm sure he won't read this as he is already posting crap in another threadQuote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
thanks Todd.Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
That wasn't aimed at me was it?
I'd really like to know what the limit is for these donks. I run mine at 20psi and just did an hour hour run towing a 1.4T trailer with thew boost at full prolly 60% of the trip. Ran like a dream apart from the hills where I could have gotten out and pushed. LolQuote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
I did set it to 25psi just to see, still no limp mode and jesus! It really went but was to worried to leave it. Once my TD42 build is ready to drop in I might screw it up just to see what goes bang first as I won't be able to sell the engine for anything so I might aswell do some r & d with it.
No mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasWatson
Someone else spamming for a manual who has had their posts deleted.
TW, there is multiple ways mate. I used what is called a bulkhead fitting, do a google image search to see what it is. But I welded mine in for a better seal. Or you can use a purpose made weldable fitting, that I happen to sell lol, which is made for both pyro fittings and boost fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasWatson
Either way it good though. just weld it in though if you use the bulkhead fittings. They seal a lot better that way.
nah mate doesn't look like it your still here.....Quote:
Originally Posted by ThomasWatson