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Is there some point, time wise vs totally stuffed, that the glow plugs and injectors in a ZD30 Di should be changed?
I am on the 140+K mark with my Patrol, 2005 GU IV. From what I gather they are still the originals.
If the plugs should be changed, any suggestions.
From what I have been told here, glow plugs around 100k and the injectors when ever the car feels like it need them. But the plugs need to be metallic tips, not the original ceramic type.
Thanks. I had a feeling they had to be changed but I could not find any reference to the timing of that.
I know they weren't changed at 100K so looks like they are a bit out of date.
Is that 100K also applied to the metallic ones or just the ceramic?
Pretty sure mine are still OE and motor on 200K now.
Still starts straight away, no issues at all, Yet !
100K seems to be the norm for glow plugs. I replaced mine at around the 110K, they still work fine and looked ok (no tips missing) when I removed them.
I replaced mine with genuine ones.
If you are going to replace them with the metal tip ones, it would also be a good idea to modify the timer circuit. Have a look at this thread.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...lease&p=151181
Don't know regarding the injectors. From what I understand they are non serviceable??. So I guess they just get checked then replaced if need be??
Then do you only do the injectors or should you do the pump at the same time?
Been doing a bit more reading on this.
Seems the 100K is the suggested point for the glow plugs.
As for the timer I was getting the impression this could be used for both metal and ceramic to reduce the after start glow time.Though I am not sure if I got that correct.
Why is that Rodney?Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
The factory control time for the glow plugs can have them hot for up to 5 minutes or about 65°C. Every ZD30 head I've seen, has cracks at the glow plug holes. Coincidence? I doubt it, I have a 30 second timer on mine.
Yes the timer can be installed with the original type plugs to reduce the time they are on for.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
To reduce the risk of burning out the plugs by reducing the time they are on for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
G'day fellers,
as always I'm late on the scene but this one's got me intrigued.
My old 4.2d had over 400K when I sold it and there was no sign whatsoever that glow plugs or pump needed any attention at all.
The new(er) '08 zd30 has about 160K and so far the same applies.
If I assume that on starting, the dashboard glow plug light indicates how long the plugs are heating, then they're on for no longer than about 5 sec.maybe a tad more it seems on a cold day. Is that correct or do they continue to heat after the light goes out?... Don't reckon they would 'cause without looking at the circuitry, (Jeez I'm a lazy sod), I'd assume the one line covers both heating and dash light.
Anyway, as my dear departed old Daddy, when I was a lad about 60 years ago would say as he leant over the bonnet of our 1923 Dodge tourer, "if it ain't rooted, why would you?"
Had a way with words, the old fellow.
Got me nervously twitching though. Reckon I'll check for cracks around. Thanks for that Muddy Lizzard .
Regards
Col
p.s. I'd better have a look at guru Yendor's thread.
You can attach a small 12v led using the glow-plug busbar close to the firewall, wire it into the cab and it will tell you exactly when power is being provided to the glow-plugs.
On my Kemo timer, the red light is the timed circuit and the green light is the factory ecu circuit. If the motor is warm they both shut off within a second or so.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1c9a77ca.jpg
And if it is cold??Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud Gecko
If the motors cold the timer will keep the glow-plugs powered for 30 seconds (or whatever I set the timer to) then shut them off (red light out). The green light will then remain on until the ecu would normally turn off the glow-pugs.
update:
First the engine starts fine with little problem. A few mornings a bit of smoke on cold start up.
Had the 150K service and the plugs tested. 3 dead and only 1 functioning.
New plugs, metal ones.
Next and soon the timer to go in.
G'day,
How long should the timer (or dash light) run for on cold start in a TD42? Been having cold start issues where it will cough and splutter and pump smoke until warm. Replaced glow plugs but still does the same thing. Im starting to think it is what ever controls the voltage to the plugs.
The glow plug light in the dash is not a true reflection of how long the glow plug are heating up for. This is a guide for when the vehicle is ready to start.Quote:
Originally Posted by paddywagon
How long they stay on for in the TD42 depends on a few things engine temperature being the main one.
Have you checked there is power at the glow plugs during heating?
Your TD42 runs a two stage heat.
Stage one, When you turn the ignition on (engine cold) the glow plug light in the dash will come on and the glow plugs will receive 12 volts and start heating up. After a set amount of time the glow plug light in the dash will go out but the glow plugs will still receive 12 volts. The 12 volts will remain until one of two things happens. 1. The vehicle is started. 2. or after another set period of time they will just switch off if the engine is not started.
Stage two, Once the vehicle is started the glow plug receive only 6 volts, this is done by connecting the glow plugs in series with the resistor in the manifold. Once engine temperature reaches a certain temperature the glow plug switch off.
Truly late on the ? trying to get the heads up before I tackle it.
Glow plugs for a td42t & 270tho old & never replaced, don't know for sure .
The reason me thinks they are worn out,
Pat start faster,better, lots less smoke if I cycle the glow a couple of times before starting,
can I expect them to be a pain to remove ?.
seized up,& run the risk of breaking one trying to remove it?.
should I use anti seize when putting the new ones in?.
ebay plugs something like $70set, and Bursons $25ea.
ebay ok so long quality brand like Bosch.
or stay clear of ebay, and go local supplier.
lastly, td plugs are ceramic also? , I should change over to metallic or not ?.
think that covers it.
No another, when purchasing, is the ceramic a typical white colour , easy to spot against a metallic tip?.
Robo,
on my old/ex 4.2 on a really, really cold morning I found a coupla cycles on the glow plugs worked best but I'm not sure if they were cactus or not. Mind you 400K+ may have been near the limit.
The 'new' zd3.0 is only up to 170K and all seems to be well.
Glow plugs have made me look a bit of a goose in the past because I thought the panel light told the truth. Silly boy.
Look forward to seeing how you go. Good thread this!
Col
Ordered Bosch from local bullseye $17ea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Col.T
but he can't tell me if they are ceramic or metallic.
trying to look at Bosch AU site to find out about tip type.
Yes chromium metal tip and $21.80 ea WT!! think I stick with bullseye
so whats up with metalic vrs ceramic?.
FYI you can buy direct online from bosch Australia.
O.K. mate, on the way.
Had a go yet with the big hammer? Or is that spanner?
Reckon if it was me, I'd be waiting to hear from cyber Troll land if there are any little tricks or disasters in waiting. Usually anything which is screwed in and running at engine temp. (let alone exhaust temp.) gets locked in rather tight. Then again as I get older my sense of adventure wanes and I tend to hesitate. Wimp!
Keep the news coming,
Col.
Gee no on can tell me if they are a pain to remove or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by Col.T
Have em in the garage ready to go in.
Bosch made in Japan so guess quality should be 2nd to none.
think flebay ones are substitute lower spec, as no part numbers given.
cant complain about price as irdium plugs for tb42 are $20 a pop.
finish this cuppa and go and do it.
Never done it so can't comment sorry
Just about Easiest job I ever done on any car.
Was luck I guess.
Humm
Tip --be gentle with small nuts and lightly anti seize glow plug threads.