cuts out under load CRD 3.0

Hey back again with a new problem to solve. My ute starts of fine 1st gear then 2nd the prob starts then 3rd it starts to die like its starving for fuel or air then shuts down, wait 2 seconds starts fine down hill goes fine up hill it starts again unless I keep it in low revs. I have replaced filters, blown out lines, had injectors done. This thing has cost me a fortune, could have bought another one for what I have spent on it. Anyway if anyone has had this issue or knows anything PLEASE let me know.

THANKS OX...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ox 123

Hey back again with a new problem to solve. My ute starts of fine 1st gear then 2nd the prob starts then 3rd it starts to die like its starving for fuel or air then shuts down, wait 2 seconds starts fine down hill goes fine up hill it starts again unless I keep it in low revs. I have replaced filters, blown out lines, had injectors done. This thing has cost me a fortune, could have bought another one for what I have spent on it. Anyway if anyone has had this issue or knows anything PLEASE let me know.

THANKS OX...

---

Have you sent it into Nissan at all?
Do you have any fault codes?

what motor is in your 4x4
Edit DOH, disconnect the battery for 1/2 hr or so and clean the MAF.
sounds like you have over boost but thought the CRD were more tolerant to high boost
What mods if any have you done to the motor, have you a cruise control fitted

no codes nothing, nissan might be getting this 1 over it totally.

3.0L CRD 08 model Have cleaned the MAF. I have it fully standard motor was going like a champ then I was going to work and it just lost power going up hill, its been like it ever since.

Have you checked all turbo and cooler hoses for cracks or came off. Your fuel filter may be dirty if its a new filter have you considered a bad batch of fuel

Yeah remove the engine cover and check all hoses making sure they're not split or loose,
Check the small vacuum hoses as well for splits and if they are brittle, sure it nothing major


Just wondering if any members nearby who may be able to look at it for you.

I did boost it up a bit maybe too much, I just went out and wound it back down, I will give it 1/2 hr and give it a run, you maybe a patrol saver it was gone....

I have checked everything about 20 times hoses lines you name it ive been over it under it around it, it was getting close to seeing the dam up close.....

yeah thought it was bad fuel to start with changed filter drained tank new fuel no better.

I wish there was someone that knew something about them in this area that didnt charge a fortune and could actually fix it......

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

Yeah remove the engine cover and check all hoses making sure they're not split or loose,
Check the small vacuum hoses as well for splits and if they are brittle, sure it nothing major
.

Just wondering if any members nearby who may be able to look at it for you.

---

A few CRD issue threads last few days around here. It's giving me the heebie jeebies, as I'm spending some serious coin gearing my car up. Something like the injector pump would not be a nice feeling, as everything about these engines smells expensive.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ox 123

I did boost it up a bit maybe too much, I just went out and wound it back down, I will give it 1/2 hr and give it a run, you maybe a patrol saver it was gone....

---

Did you adjust the Turbo Actuator Rod, as it sounds like it is overboosting and going into limp mode.

after winding back the boost still the same it cuts out under load or revs, but sitting it will rev its head off. I dont know where to look any more its doing my head in this one. It seems like limp mode to me but cant get it to stop.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hodge

A few CRD issue threads last few days around here. It's giving me the heebie jeebies, as I'm spending some serious coin gearing my car up. Something like the injector pump would not be a nice feeling, as everything about these engines smells expensive.

---

Don't worry too much about it Hodge.....it is all good - I think the CRD's are fairly strong and will give great service...

Mic

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hodge

A few CRD issue threads last few days around here. It's giving me the heebie jeebies, as I'm spending some serious coin gearing my car up. Something like the injector pump would not be a nice feeling, as everything about these engines smells expensive.

---

Yeah it is but I also have a wagon and cant fault it, It has 180,000 ks hardly been touched only serviced every 10,000 ks But then theres the ute different story nothing but trouble with this one.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ox 123

Yeah it is but I also have a wagon and cant fault it, It has 180,000 ks hardly been touched only serviced every 10,000 ks But then theres the ute different story nothing but trouble with this one.

---

Actually a bloke at work has an opposite story. His 09 ute CRD has been to simpson, he's done the CSR it's sitting on 130k or so, and has not skipped a beat, andlet me tell you he absolutely flogs this thing. Yet... his wife's 2010 wagon STL with barely 50k has been to nissan for engine issue countless times. Go figure.

My two have been good, except for a small self-inflicted problem....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hodge

Actually a bloke at work has an opposite story. His 09 ute CRD has been to simpson, he's done the CSR it's sitting on 130k or so, and has not skipped a beat, andlet me tell you he absolutely flogs this thing. Yet... his wife's 2010 wagon STL with barely 50k has been to nissan for engine issue countless times. Go figure.

---

This is why I got rid of my cruiser it was costing me a fortune to keep running. This one is an 08 model with 90,000 ks and cost me 8k for the last 20,000 ks to keep going, it should be going like new not a bucket from the back paddock, hang on that bucket still goes the same as it did 20 years ago..........

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hodge

Actually a bloke at work has an opposite story. His 09 ute CRD has been to simpson, he's done the CSR it's sitting on 130k or so, and has not skipped a beat, andlet me tell you he absolutely flogs this thing. Yet... his wife's 2010 wagon STL with barely 50k has been to nissan for engine issue countless times. Go figure.

---

This is why I got rid of my cruiser it was costing me a fortune to keep running. This one is an 08 model with 90,000 ks and cost me 8k for the last 20,000 ks to keep going, it should be going like new not a bucket from the back paddock, hang on that bucket still goes the same as it did 20 years ago..........

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ox 123

I did boost it up a bit maybe too much, I just went out and wound it back down, I will give it 1/2 hr and give it a run, you maybe a patrol saver it was gone....

---

Did you adjust the Turbo Actuator Rod ( in Red ) to adjust Boost, as this shouldn't be touched
Attachment 33071

The boost adjust is shown the Blue Arrow

Anyway anyone got a clue how to fix this .....................

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by happygtu

Did you adjust the Turbo Actuator Rod ( in Red ) to adjust Boost, as this shouldn't be touched
Attachment 33071

The boost adjust is shown the Blue Arrow

---

Blue arrow is the one I adjusted its a pain to get too.
There was a young mechanic under the bonnet the other day I think he may have played with it as it has scratches on it. Would that cause the problem? And how would I fix it?

This is driving me nuts Ive tried everything and still no go. Someone must have an idea im out of them. As I said Ive spent a fortune on this thing to go no where only ones getting enjoyment are the mechanics rubbing there hands together.

Scangauge or a boost gauge fitted and get some certainty as to the boost it is actually creating , also the MAF may be dodgy causing the problem

Ox,

Can you get next to another CRD, and pop the bonnets of both, and compare the Turbo Actuator Rods for length, to see if they are approximately the same.

I don't think it takes much to affect it, as my Turbo Actuator Rod was slightly bent, and this caused it to go into limp mode .... no power when loaded up ( when it popped into limp, it was 80 klms an hour up hill, but you could get to 100 cruising on the flat )

yeah I can we have a wagon the same model so I will measure the gap and set it the same.I just cant work out why it stalls out all together if its in limp mode, its like theres no fuel or air getting to it but checked it all and its all good, the only thing the maf when unplugged it ran the same as if it was plugged in, I allways thought they would shut down if there was no air passing through it ??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by happygtu

Ox,

Can you get next to another CRD, and pop the bonnets of both, and compare the Turbo Actuator Rods for length, to see if they are approximately the same.

I don't think it takes much to affect it, as my Turbo Actuator Rod was slightly bent, and this caused it to go into limp mode .... no power when loaded up ( when it popped into limp, it was 80 klms an hour up hill, but you could get to 100 cruising on the flat )

---

X 2 with Boots get your hands on a Scangauge this diagnostic tool will pin point your problem very quickly.
Not very expensive either. Any faults that show up you can re-set, That's what I'd be doing

Try to hook up a temporary boost gauge, adjust your boost to 10psi at 2000rpm
this is ball park, fine tuning can be done later
Max boost should be 12-15 psi and spikes of up to 20psi are not abnormal
once you have the boost where it should be, you'll now have a starting point

I have set the boost back to exactly the same as the wagon by measuring with micrometer still the same starts failing in 2nd then 3rd at about 2500 rpm it shuts down turn it off for 2 sec and starts straight up it is something simple I hope just finding it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

X 2 with Boots get your hands on a Scangauge this diagnostic tool will pin point your problem very quickly.
Not very expensive either. Any faults that show up you can re-set, That's what I'd be doing

Try to hook up a temporary boost gauge, adjust your boost to 10psi at 2000rpm
this is ball park, fine tuning can be done later
Max boost should be 12-15 psi and spikes of up to 20psi are not abnormal
once you have the boost where it should be, you'll now have a starting point

---

Dodgy TPS perhaps . some CRD models have had issues . you may be able to swap with the one in your wagon .

Ok talked to mechanic he had it on scan gauge no faults....... Took it for another run when it cuts out if I leave it on acc it wont start but as soon as I turn key all the way off then it starts straight away so im thinking electrical somewhere, Cleaned MAF no better swapped it with wagon no better gone around it with CO cleaner on everything I could see still no better. So anymore ideas are very welcome. Thanks to everyone for trying to help out....Cheers OX...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by boots

Dodgy TPS perhaps . some CRD models have had issues . you may be able to swap with the one in your wagon .

---

Where would I find the TPS my head going around in circles over this one. I thought I knew a bit about cars but this one takes the cake and the plate...

Throttle position sensor, down near pedal One piece I think from memory

Check the other thread he had problems with fuel rail pressure regulator, Might be worth checking

Yeah has new fuel pressure sensor, As I said alot of money has gone into this and not getting anywhere. will try the TPS now.

Yendor maybe your man if you feel its electrical, he's a walking schematic lol
Can't be a bad earth can it ??

Well just got back from mechanic and told injectors have gone again....... So if anyone has a set laying around let me know as this is the second lot in no time....I don"t know about anyone else but im sick of having my hand in my pocket to keep this thing running, great 4x4 but running costs are a killer at 8k already now this.......All in 12 months. Could have bought a new motor. So if anyone can help out your very welcome or the nissan might be gone as its becoming too expensive to keep throwing money at.