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gday,ive been having trouble with the central locking on my '04 wagon,its been taking anywhere from 10 to 30 pushes on the remote button to lock the doors,so thinking it must be dodgy remotes I brought 2 new ones from Nissan at $150 each and another $55 to have them programed to suit the car.seemed ok at first(10 mins) but now its no different to the old remotes,crap,so it obviously isn't the remotes! so does anyone have any other ideas?? any help would be appreciated,thanks.
A rooted actuator ???
where would I find that??Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
I am not sure with your car if the actuator in your door is the control one for all the others?? or if this is at all right?
I would maybe PM Yendor and ask him if he might know....
Does it only play up when trying to lock the vehicle or does it also play up when trying to unlock the vehicle.
Have you replaced your interior light bulbs with LEDs?
It is definitely worse when trying to unlock,and yes interior lights have been changed to led,the front is running an outback roof console with the retrofit led's and the rear is one of the led panels that repco sells that just plugs into the old festoon terminals.hope its not a silly question but what would changing the interior lights change in relation to the central locking ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
Try fitting the original festoon back in the rear and see if it still plays up.
There is an input to the keyless entry module that prevents the remote from locking the vehicle if a door is open. I'm wondering if the LEDs might be sending a mixed signal to the module and this is causing the problem.
Would turning off the rear interior light work as well ? Just to add a bit more into the equation,once it unlocks I can lock and unlock as many times as I want and no worries,but if I then go for a 10 min drive same problem.
Yes you can try turning off both interior lights.
Another thing is the interior light switch for the driver side door is a dual contact switch. This could be playing up. I would also try unplugging this switch and see if it still plays up.
I worked on a commodore last week that had a similar issue. After a bit of mucking around with receiver units and what not, it turned out to be a loose plug on the body control module.
Find it and remove all the plugs then re install them so they make a better contact.
It also wouldn't hurt to check and clean the main earths.
Has anything electrical been fitted to the vehicle around the same time the problem with the remotes started?
I have same problem. My interior LEDs are huge and been working fine for year and a half, Its not battery I know that
Well I've rulled out the lights,had them off over night and still had trouble this morning locking doors,will look at the connection on the body control module over weekend,looks like I have to pull dash out to get at it !
I'd be going down the earth road, I lot of issues occur on Patrols
because of poor earth connection. I found if it didn't work I needed to open and close driver door
Does that help at all with yours. Mine doesn't work at all now, ticked off but wt???
So would you suggest running an extra earth cable from the battery to the chassis?ill try the door tonight.
Was that an early VR Commodore? they did have problems with voltage spikes causing the BCM to lock up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alitis007
Well that rules out the easy cause.Quote:
Originally Posted by tassie wombat
No mate it was a VT, was working fine then one day it started playing up when the weather got colder. Holden diagnosed it first as the key remote, 2x remotes later still the same fault, then then they said it was the transponder, still the same fault till we started playing with it. The BCM being a key component in the car and its age we had to rule out a dirty connection which seemed to have solved the fault but its quite possible to have a dry soldier connection on its actual mother bored like the TF Magna's security unit suffer from.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
Since when did it start being that way? Did you connect any electrical or electronic gadget lately?Quote:
Originally Posted by tassie wombat
It is possible that the main actuator (installed in the driver's door) could be malfunctioning? Or the control unit of the remote have been misinstalled in a way that a wire is connected or tapped to a negative line instead of a positive line and the actuators were connected in reverse. At the start the connection would work okay but sooner or later it will go bad but when you install a new gadget you will soon experience the "no no".
I suggest you call an electronic technician.
This is a common problem on the U's. Scrap the POS Ni$$an locking system and put an aftermarket one in. Thats what I did and is all good now.
No new electronics installed lately,what is an aftermarket unit worth ?.
Warlock KG-400 system is under $100 from JB's.Quote:
Originally Posted by tassie wombat
Does this use the factory Actuators ??? I am too over the whole bloody central locking thing.... I also have just recently change to LED Lights inside the car....Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Yeah mate. Just wire it in where the original control box is.Quote:
Originally Posted by rochjas
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...der-20-minutes
That's interesting another one that's playing up that's had LEDs fitted.......
Contrary to what some people are saying the genuine Nissan central locking, keyless entry and immobiliser system that is fitted to the GUs is good quality. Much better quality then the aftermarket kits. Yes some people have had problems, but when compared to the amount of vehicles that have been sold, I think you will find that percentages is very low. There is also a good chance these problems are caused by mods that have been done to the vehicle.
Most people also believe the remotes are the problem tassie wombat this is clearly not the case with your vehicle.
It's up to you if you want to put the time in and try and diagnose the problem (and possible expense) with the genuine system or you just want to throw an aftermarket remote and receive in it. Just don't think it's the magic pill, more then likely this system will give you trouble as well in the near future.
Understanding how the genuine system works will help you diagnose it. I recommend you have a read of the workshop manual.
If you had a problem with one of the door lock actuator the indicator lights will still flash and the rest of the doors should still lock. So I don't think your problem is here.
We know your remotes are OK so we a left with the remote receiver or one of it's inputs. As George said above it's possible a bad connection in the connector at the receiver or possibly a fault within the receive. Due to the erratic nature of your problem I still think it's a problem with the one of the inputs. This could be a voltage drop, bad earth or one of the inputs reading incorrectly.
Do you have the connector for the key left in ignition buzzer disconnected?
Not sure,how do I check ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
@ Yendor I have led internal Lights Every globe, worked fine until recently
First remote got wet. I don't think Roofy has LED being Old school and pretty
Sure his has failed to. I'll check my main earth tomorrow.
Does the Patrol have different earths for each section on Body??
If you turn the ignition off but leave the key in the ignition and open the drive side door does a warning buzzer go off?Quote:
Originally Posted by tassie wombat
I'm not talking about if one remote works fine and another remote doesn't work.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Electrical problems can sometimes raise their heads months later.
I'm not saying the LEDs are the problem I'm just thinking out load and giving possible causes/things to check.
The main earths to check are the ones on the driver side of the engine inlet manifold, the main body earth connected to the inner guard below the battery and the earth wire connected to the body of the alternator.
Do you still have one remote working correctly? have you tried the wd40 trick?
Tasiewombat apart from removing the LED interior light globes what have you checked ??
I just remembered a Kia i worked had a broken wire going from the master lock switch on the door that controlled the central locking mechanism.
Does your trol have a lock/unlock button ?? If it does when you press it do all the doors lock ??
You need to start a process of elimination so start with what Rodney has stated with the earths, remove and clean them and try again. Next try the door switch and then go to the connectors on the body control module and or the central locking control unit ( they could be one and the same )
Start with those and get back to us other wise we're going around in circles and confusing the situation further.
Also have s look to see if there is a relay for the central locking..
hi ya tassie wombat my solution was ( This may help this may not ) :)
right gear
Key-less entry system
part # A1-450
$91.95
I just changed out key-less entry system under dash once you take out the glovebox
Worked for me
Comes with 2 remotes (4x actuators still in box) and the key-less unit
I too have all led lights every where. hehe
thanks for all the replies fellas,ill have another look tomorrow,see if I can get at the bcm to check the plug etc,also the earth leads and door switches, oh and there doesn't appear to be any buzzer that goes off if I leave the key in the ignition and open the door(there is on that comes on if the lights are on whilst can isn't running though).
Fixed my remote, first I put a "new" battery in from post office, Thinking these have a shelf life I ordered 10 off CR1620
to suit my remote. They just arrived, changed batteries and remote now works like a new one.
This may disclaim the LED theory as that's all I have, Led or HID. Happy camper again.
@ Roofy was a pain using Key all the time, cant see how you can do it.
just cause battery is new don't count on it, buy a few they are cheap ,I ended getting 10 from Ebay for $1
with free post.
Ok,I pulled out the plug on the bcm,cleaned with contact cleaner,did the same thing with all the door light switches,and also the plug on the actuator in the drivers side door,sprayed wd40 on all locks ,locked and unlocked probably 50 times with no problems,then drove to work this morning,which is only 5-6 k's,took 7-8 pushes on the button to lock,Bugger,back to the drawing board,ill try the earth leads this weekend.
But it worked after you disturbed the wiring harness on the bcm, see if you can put more pressure on plug with cable ties. You can even try wiggle the wires when it plays up aswell to see if it starts working.
The fact it worked untill you drove the car tells me that the fault is in either a wire, the plug and its pins or the bcm itself coz it breaks the connection after you have shaken the car around a bit driving over bumps.
another thing I noticed today was if I used the key to lock it,the remote would then work no problems.
Too just unlock it? Or unlock then lock?Quote:
Originally Posted by tassie wombat
Yeah you're pretty close but no cigar.
If you open and close Drivers door only after it fails, will it work then??
It's a long shot but try waiting for your electric aerial to fully go down and the motor to stop before trying to lock the vehicle with the remote.