Apart from wire size is there a rule of thumb in what connector is used to what application, I.e. bullet, folk, round, etc?
Cheers
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Apart from wire size is there a rule of thumb in what connector is used to what application, I.e. bullet, folk, round, etc?
Cheers
Bullets are better than spade connectors.
If you're happy and you know it tap a post!
The only rule I have, is don't buy cheap ones that lose their shape and make a high resistant joint.
Heat shrink and resin core solder, every join is a weak point.
Might be better, if possible to use a terminal block, and step
down your wire size. If it needs to be removed for maintenance
a bullet connector would give you more surface area of contact.
NEVER ,UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE SCOTCH LOKS
They will fail.
Cheers guys......
Heat absorption and tar center bind each join is a powerless focus.
May be better, if conceivable to utilize a terminal square, and step down your wire size.
I use solder and water proof heat shrink where possible. When that's not possible I only use amp plugs and 9006 connectors. There waterproof, positively locked so they cant come loose, better built, can handle high amps and look like factory.
Cheers Mick
Conventional wisdom among DIY motorhome builders (bearing in mind these are vehicles intended for long term & regular use) is that soldered joints are best avoided as over time they can crack from vibration creating faults which can be extremely difficult to detect. Recommended are properly crimped connections (ie. made with a quality ratchet or hydraulic crimper). Finished with heat shrink.
If soldering fine multi strand wires care must be taken not to heat too much as the solder will tend to wick up inside the cable creating a longer rigid section even more prone to fracture.
Cuppa
I actually build horse Floats for a living which some have living quarters in them, TVs, DVD players, Microwaves, kitchen sinks etc and everything is soldered except the 240 Volt. All the high end caravans and horse floats are all soldered and the wiring is secured so it cant move meaning it wont crack over time. I've been doing the wiring personally for over 3 years and I never had an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
The issues I've had and this scares me is other builders (not DIY either) are using scotch locks on the electric brakes on trailers that are rated up to 5.5 tonnes. This is common practice and not just Chinese trailer, floats, vans etc some are made here.:1087:
You are right though solder can and does crack if it's not done properly. Your wiring should never be left in a place where it's not properly attached and all joins are heat shrinked so it cant move then it cant and wont crack even after 20 years. It's very important that it's not left floating around or it will crack but even if you use connectors if the wiring is left floating the wires will pull out of the terminals from constant movement giving you the same problem as not securing soldered joins.
All my wiring is run in conduit and then run in the metal frame work so it cant move. There are no joins in the tube except the end of clearance lights etc which are easily pulled back out of the tube and easily repaired if one gets ripped off by a tree.
So with a car you can solder but you just need to heat shrink it conduit it if possible and attach it to your factory loom and it wont move or crap providing you know how to solder in the first place. lol
Cheers Mick
When I had my towbar fitted by a reputable shop I was happy until I started having problems with my camper.
Checked under the back of my Patrol and found Scotch locs piggy backed for trailer pin wiring, Spat the dummy big time.
This is a connection waiting to fail. They offered to solder,I declined as my son is Auto lec. Now all wiring on trailer is one piece[soldered]
Plus never had any trouble with it since being soldered. Also after stripping wire to suit plug I soldered the ends so the screw
wouldn't break fine wires off somewhere down the track. Also used heat shrink and cable ties everywhere I could.
50 amp Anderson plugs I crimp and solder.
It's a common practice mate. We get customers who have just bought new floats off us and had towbars fitted with the 12 pin plugs elsewhere. They have the car on the road for only a few months and then things start going wrong. They bring it back to us assuming it's the float which I have a little module I made up I put on the floats to test everything to show them it's not the float. Then we check the car and there all scotch locked. We also put solder on the end of the plug wires so the screws crush onto the solder rather then the wire which gives a lot better connection.
Cheers Mick
nice tip there mick. i might do that also, plugs give me the shts as its hard to get a good one at a reasonable price and as my dog loves to chew them off i hate buying expensive ones .
We used to make a mint from repairing intermittent faults caused by scotch locks (money for jam). I have always banned scotch locks from my workshops. (Im a radio tech by trade)
We use crimp connect - done with a good quality mechanical crimper. Also have done soldering & heat sink.
If you use inline bullets ensure that there are no exposed ends that can short.
You have great practices in your work,Quote:
Originally Posted by mick.
The one thing I will tell you tho is NEVER solder a wire that is getting crushed, ie with a screw.
This magnifies the chance of breakage in the connection 10 fold.
I am a sparky and this is specified in the as/nzs3000:2007 and must NOT be done.
If you want a better connection in a connection point use crimp type ferrules. Ie boot lace pins
Lots of stuff I was unaware of......many thanks.