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Hi All,
Newbie to patrols and just getting my head around the boost issues with the ZD30.
Currently running std setup with a 3" mandrel exhaust with 1 muffler and no cat.
Fitted a pillar pod with egt and boost gauges. Fitted a dawes valve no egr block off yet.
Currently i get a max boost of 14psi and at 100kms around 3psi.
Egt at 100 is at 350 these figures are with or without the dawes valve installed.
Egt climbs quickly if you work it hard.
What is the std boost for a 12/01 zd30 auto ?
Steve
The above sound just about right.
I get similar numbers on my GU8.
Thanks MEGOMONSTER
Check Chaz Yellowfoot{guru} threads on this subject,
general rule of thumb is 2000rpm = 10 psi
Fitting a needle valve can controll spool up rate
You can't put too much boost into these motors.
Only so much to do to the Z30, IMO chip, exhaust and NADS, for longevity
Is it 350 C?
Yeh THREEDOGS
350C.
Was a litte concerned about the lack of boost and the rise of the EGT.
Have previously read some of chaz's threads and still a bit confused of the boost spike.
The current highest boost i have recorded is 14 psi. ( with or without the dawes valve connected)
Ive been driving this patrol for the last 8 months and just purchased it 1 month ago.
Heading off in 5 weeks to the Kimberly for 7 weeks.
Stdcar except i have added the 3" exhaust and have the egr blank to fitt and a spare manifold cleaned of all the gum to fit as well.3
Do you think 350c is high or ok ?
Steve
Next time you are up this way drop in I'll check it for you if you like. I'm just off ringroad near Ballarat RD
Anything under 500 is good, but wont hurt to double check, did you blank off the vacuum hoses on the vacuun solenoid??
Blowing much black smoke if any,Maybe a dyno before you head off, may need to dial more boost into it IMO
Cheers THREEDOGS
bit slow to reply been working on the camper all day.
Not sure which vacc hoses you are refering to ?
I did run it up on the dyno before doing the exhaust and it ran 78 R W KW factory is 116KM at the flywheel , so allowing for 30% drive train loss.
Im running 285/75/16 so pretty close to std readings.
Might have to take you up on the offer over a beer.
350 deg is fine.
I look at it like a cooling system, they can run all day at around 100 deg but if they go over their safe temp things go bad. EGT's are similar, as long as they stay below 500-550 you are pretty right.
That's standard stuff with unmodded (NADS) ZD30 and EGR functioning. ECU turns on EGR full bore when cruisn so it needs to drop boost in order to get exhaust gases in to intake manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve69
Welcome to the ZD30 diabolical tech. You need to take the control of the VNT turbo away from the ECU and stop exhaust gases from reaching inlet manifold.
Cheers
Thanks, BEARGUST
Got the L plates and learning
Taking EGR out will result in higher boost pressure than normal especially in your case with free flowing 3" exhaust so YES, you'll need Dawes valve to control maximum boost and needle valve to control spool up rate (instead of ECU).Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve69
You'll be wondering why you didn't do it earlier.
It can take a bit of fiddling to get it right/be happy with but its worth the effort.
Don't forget the Provent catch can/oil separator.
Cheers
Thanks RUMCAJS
So once i have the exhaust gases under control the dawes valve will be used to control the max boost ?
RUMCAJS
What model Provent do you used the 200 or 400 model ?
I use Provent 200, (Provent 400 is huge and too expensive, it is designed for large truck engines). IMHO even 200 series is perhaps bigger than needed but its hard to source others indeed P150 would be more than suitable.
Dawes valve is used to limit max boost.
Cheers
Heres a pic for ya mate of the vac hose setup. IF your running a needle valve to that is. If not its a little different but we can help.
Attachment 29461
Thanks MUDSKI
Get small stainless steel washers to fit in the dawes valve. one at a time insert and try.
keep going till it goes into limp or over boost, then remove last washer,
you now have max boost for your engine. might need 6mm of washers IMO
The Dawes let YOU control the Boost not the ECU. along with Blocking EGR your exhaust gases are spinning up the Turbo
You'll get your head around it in no time, you just need to know what bits do what.
Firstly boost spike is when you put your foot into it and your boost will suddenly go up to say for example 18psi and then quickly settle at the select level.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve69
As for your second sentence. This concerns me a little. With or without the dawes you don't see anything above 14psi? Thats definitely not right. Without the dawes you should see in excess of 20 psi at times. Particularly when cruising. I would be checking the entire intake system for boost leaks. It is very rare, and I mean rare, to need to stretch the Dawes spring or put spacer washers in it. Doing this in my opinion isn't fixing the problem.
I'd be checking for a boost leak. Take a close look at the intercooler. Check for wet oily spots on top of the motor, under the IC. Check for oil deposits where the IC tanks are joined to the core too.
- As for spec wise, Most Patrols can get around 15-16psi before limp mode kicks in.
- Your EGT's will rise quickly, although with a sufficient air cooling system you want the temps to drop quickly also.
- I have yet to see anything in excess of 400c on my Patrol, even towing on a hot day and flogging the bejesus out of her.
- Boost level at 100k's should be around the 10psi mark. Anything lower and the EGT's will crawl up.
I max out at 15psi but when climbing Kosziosko with loaded boat in, I was at 550-650 degrees for a fairly long time but I never pushed it past that and always backed off a little. I wasn't driving by speed but by EGT gauge.
Hehe. I do that too.Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
I'm just glad I was told to put on the gauges and not to go over 650 degrees for long periods. Cos going up Mt Kosziosko I would have driven hard all the way up and I have no doubt it would have been over 750 degrees the whole way up and most certainly damaged something.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Did Nissan say that bud? I ask coz towing the van I can hit 550 quite quick and back off straight away. I did max out at 630 for a few seconds when both the boss and I didn't pay attention :(Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
I was told by this forum.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew
Okie dokie I must have missed that bit :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGOMONSTER
Do you have EGR block Drew,??
Nope (not sure with the crd)Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Any diesel motor should have the Egr blocked. Period.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew
Common rail can tolerate high temps better than the Di diesels
I've heard that but what gets me is that they are the same engine aren't they (zd30)Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Pretty much Drew but a few changes made on the inside and the obvious on the outside...
Thanks MUDSKI
Working on the rig tomorrow, swapping intake manifold, egr block and provent.
So will check the ic when its off.
You will rarely see it spiking to 20 psi under OEM control with standard exhaust and rest of the Mr Nissan control. With OEM controls max boost is usually 14-15 psi as ECU starts backing off VNT vanes as soon as you floor it.
Put bigger exhaust and take out EGR and it will go over cause now the variables have changed. As for the LIMP mode it usually happens if the MAF voltages exceed certain levels at certain RPM and if boost exceed 18 psi.
Cheers
Thanks for the advice Boys ( a bit slow on the reply i know )
Swapped the intake manifold and throttle body for one that i had cleaned, completed the egr block and fitted a provent.
Its a new rig, bewtter take off and lower egt, at 100 now running 14 psi and 220nto 250 egt.
Cheers
Maybe a touch high on the boost, rule of thumb is 10psi at 2000 rpm.
Read chaz yellowfoot article on NADs set up in achives
Will do threedogs.
Been working flat stick on the rig and the camper for my upcomming Kimberly trip!!
Running outa time fast
You have a needle valve fitted too? If not I would strongly advise to do so. You will then have complete control of the turbo then.
How much MUDSKI ?
Mine haven't arrived from Italy yet. I was told they will leave the ital's shore on the 14th of this month and then its another two weeks from then. Price wise I haven't confirmed this yet but I will think it will be around $75. Why get them from Italy? I have gone through 9 different needle valves to date and found the first one I tried the best, albeit one of the most expensive it worked the best.
If you need it sooner you can get it from Dependable distibutors for $85 plus GST, plus freight which equates to around $105 I think it was.
Cheers.
Mark.