RLI's step by step wiring and gauges install!

G'day Trendsetters,

The following is how i wired up my auto-meter, glow-shift and sine-tec gauges!

Oil pressure sender!

First remove the original oil pressure sender unit which is located next to the oil filter closest to the radiator. So you don not have buy a genuine $50.00 Nissan socket. I modified and cut down an old 1 inch AF ring spanner. I cut the length to 125mm. Using a round file, file back all the inside teeth so they are all rounded. A cheap supercheap spanner would probably cost you about $2.00 and fifteen minutes filing.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1381.jpg

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_1386.jpg

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1387.jpg

I then purchased a brass block fitting from my local Pirtek store. (when purchasing the block, take both the Nissan and after market oil pressure sender units to the store, so they can match the threads accordingly) Now that i have my brass fitting, firstly, i fit the Nissan oil pressure sender unit to the top of the brass block (don't forget to use thread ntape)

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_1300.jpg

Secondly, Now fit the brass block fitting with the Nissan oil pressure sender unit to the engine block using a 6inch shifter (don't oven tighten) Then fit the aftermarket sender unit at the end of the brass block fitting facing towards the drivers side guard.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_1302.jpg

Remove factory plug from thermostat housing and Fit water temp sensor fitting here. Remember to use thread tape! If your fitting will not fit, go to your local Pirtec store with thermostat housing and your sensor, so you can fit a reducer two way fitting.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1376.jpg

Boost fitting!

Run copper line through fire/wall into dash area. Tap into boost line on manifold from inlet side of turbo.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1377.jpg

Run all wiring and lines ie, Boost, Dual battery monitor, EGT, Oil pressure and Water temp through this spot in the fire/wall. I like to use flexible conduit to help protect my wiring.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1388.jpg

More to follow over!

Part 2

Wiring:

Black wire goes from neg terminal on the back of the aftermarket oil sender unit to the negative terminal on the battery. White wire goes from remaining terminal on the back of the aftermarket sender unit back through drivers side firewall up into pillar pod into terminal clip to gauge.

Water temp the same. Run EGT wiring from dump pipe through fire-wall as with previous wires. Same goes for Boost line.

Dual battery monitor wiring. Battery 1, fit black wire to neg on battery terminal. Fit red wire to positive on battery terminal. Remember to fit a 3 amp inline fuse to both positive red wires to the battery terminals. Battery 2 the same as for Battery 1. Note: You will have to solder extra lengths of additional wiring to the dual battery monitor loom.

INSIDE THE CABIN:

Firstly, we need to get access to our areas of operations ie; pillar Pod, under the dash and the cigarette lighter area.

To access the pillar Pod area, using a Phillips head screw driver remove the grab handle on the drivers side! Now Grab the pillar trim at the top and gentle pull back towards you, with the blade of the screw driver now lever the trim free from the mounting clips. Now look at the following photo, using a 10mm small socket or large Phillips head screw driver we need to remove the both the bonnet and fuel cap release latches.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1409.jpg

Now remove the following screw, see photo.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1417.jpg

Now remove fuse panel cover, see photo.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1411.jpg

Now place you hand into fuse panel area and gentle grab and pull down and out towards you, this will release this panel so you now have easy access area to work with behind the dash.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1412.jpg

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1415.jpg

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1413.jpg

Now you should have access to both pillar and dash areas!

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_1335.jpg

Finally, the center consul area, remove the ash-tray from the center consul.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1419.jpg

With the ash-tray removed, use a small Phillips head screw driver to remove the screw! see photo

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1420.jpg

Now remove the two small screws at the front of the consul using a small Phillips head screw driver! see photo

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1418.jpg

Now remove both the transfer lever and gear-stick knobs. Gentle lift the panel up enough to access the ashtray light connector. disconnect by gently depressing the middle of the connector and pull the two apart. Now remove this panel.

Finally, undo the two small screws at the bottom of the cigarette lighter panel. Gently pull down on the panel and now you have access to all your working areas.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_1327.jpg

more to follow over!

Part 3

Disconnect both the light and cigarette lighter connectors see photo

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_1328.jpg

The following are where you are going to splice and solder your wiring from your gauges into. Firstly, wiring from Boost, Oil and Water temp lights will be spliced and solder into the Cigarette light wiring. Secondly, the light wiring for the EGT will be spliced and solder into the Cigarette housing wiring loom.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_1331.jpg

From the oil gauge and water temp in the pod. (you may decide to run your Boost and EGT gauges from the pillar pod) Run both red positive wires down though and under dash to light connector on the cigarette lighter. Now splice the wire. Do not solder until you have the Boost (white wire), Oil and Water temp (Red wires) run to the light connector on the cigarette lighter.

Now pop out the dimmer switch out, see photo;

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1414.jpg

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_1325.jpg

With the dimmer switch removed, Splice the 3 black wires from the Boost, Oil and Water temp gauges lights into the pink wire that goes into the dimmer switch (Not the blue wire ) See photo below. This now allows you to operate you new gauges lights only at night time when you turn on your head-lights. By wiring into the dimmer switch, you have the additional ability to dim you gauges, if you do not like bright lights.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_1326.jpg

With your EGT gauge light, Red wire goes to Cigarette lighter wiring, your black wire goes to earth on the body. When you turn your ignition on you have a lights at the EGT all the time.

When re-assembly of the panels, remember to align all locating clips with holes in other panel housings. see photos

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1416.jpg

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1413.jpg

Walla you goat stroker's, you've done it! Now go and have that beer and or any other stress relieve beverage that you usually drink!

Finished look:

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1370.jpg

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1373.jpg

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_1372.jpg

Regards,

RLI
:sterb003:

Brilliant step by step mate!!

Exactly what people like me who are unsure about what, and how, to take apart the bits we need to to get things connected.

Good stuff mate, just what I need, I am about to wire my low water alarm and was wondering where to get power from! Cheers for that.

excellent write up mate, thanks.

Hey mate - great guide and the photos make it easy for anyone to follow.

Jas

Hey Paul,

Great write up mate well detailed and plenty of pics, only one complaint as it was done on a GU, you now need to get a GQ, MK/MQ and a G60, and do wiring write ups for these models.

Na serious mate good job.

Mark

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MC97GQ

Hey Paul,

Great write up mate well detailed and plenty of pics, only one complaint as it was done on a GU, you now need to get a GQ, MK/MQ and a G60, and do wiring write ups for these models.

Na serious mate good job.

Mark

---

G'day Mark,

Supply me those vehicles, ill gladly do the write ups for everyone! lol

Regards,

RLI

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PMC

Part 3

Disconnect both the light and cigarette lighter connectors see photo.........................................

---

I have tried following your wiring procedure step by step. after finishing I noticed that when I adjust the lights with the dimmer switch my gauges go mental. There is Boost, pyro, water temp and oil pressure, the are autotechina brand, all the yellow wires are the positive for the lighting and all black are negitive. I have had to revert back to all thee yellows going to headlight wire and black to negative, any advice would be appreciated as the lights are very bright at night

Yendor or ET maybe your go to guru's for this one.
I strongly doubt if PMC will reply

Interesting that Paul never managed to get rid of this thread title, he tried to get rid of anything that suggested he served in the Rhodesian Light Infantry.

Great post PMC. Installed boost and EGT gauges this arvo - work great, dimmable, very happy.
Used the ashtray light (easy to get to) to feed the gauge lights and spliced the other side of the gauge globes to the pink wire on the dimmer switch.
Used the wiper motor power feed (also easy to get to) for power to the pyro.
Originally mucked around a bit trying to keep everything under the dash - but it's jut quicker and easier to use the ashtray/wiper solution.
cheers

Hell I thought he was back for a second.
Do not think you will get a reply dermie72.

@TPC haha me too. Though this is about to get interesting.

X 3 bit concerned it was PMC and not RIL.
He had no copy right on Forum related posts Id imagine
FYI the thread required was 1/8 bsp