LH high beam not working

LH hi beam doesnt work. was running HID's up until a week ago and the LH connector was used to trigger my spotlights for high beam, then Dept of transport started inspecting every 4X4 they could see, so thought it best to go back to normal halogens for head lights,, low beam works fine, but if I put a test light on the highbeam wire the test light only glows a slight orange, so there is huge resistance some where, for the time being spliced a wire from the rh high beam over to the left, so at least I have 2 low and 2 high at the moment, but want to resolve the problem.

Any suggestions before I start pulling looms appart?

first fuses , if you havent done so . then while your checking headlight plug with your test light, wriggle the combination switch on the steering column , might be bad contacts from not having full current going through it . might be enuff to trigger your relay for the hids but not the high beam..

I too have just run into a problem with my RH high beam, also used to drive the spots, also not working and neither are the spots. Cannot see any fuse problems. Could it be a relay, in which case where do I begin?

Ok, I had this issue a while ago to. You have most likely burnt out the terminal inside the selector box in the steering colum..
But start easy, check fuses first..
If no good pull the colum apart, remove the light selector box, carefully remove the plastic lid, check the circuit.
I bridged mine so left and right are now together.
If your running high powered lights its best to run relays for them..


Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Conradk

I too have just run into a problem with my RH high beam, also used to drive the spots, also not working and neither are the spots. Cannot see any fuse problems. Could it be a relay, in which case where do I begin?

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There are no factory fitted headlight relays.

If the low beam still works on the RHS and the high beam and the spot lights stopped working at the same time, More then likely you problem is with the contacts in the headlight switch.

They have a set of contacts for the LHS high beam and another set of contacts for the RHS high beam. You can pull the headlight switch apart and clean the contacts, you may also need to carefully adjust the contacts.

It is not a good idea to bridge the left and right high beam together, this will double the load going through the LHS switch contacts and the fuse.

If you are unable to repair the headlight switch you would be better off fitting relays.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yendor

There are no factory fitted headlight relays.

If the low beam still works on the RHS and the high beam and the spot lights stopped working at the same time, More then likely you problem is with the contacts in the headlight switch.

They have a set of contacts for the LHS high beam and another set of contacts for the RHS high beam. You can pull the headlight switch apart and clean the contacts, you may also need to carefully adjust the contacts.

It is not a good idea to bridge the left and right high beam together, this will double the load going through the LHS switch contacts and the fuse.

If you are unable to repair the headlight switch you would be better off fitting relays.

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I did have concerns, but after talking to my elecy friend and showing him he deemed it ample for the stock lights..
If your running higher wattage high beams then either replace the unit, or bridge and use relays to supply power to be sure.

8 months now and mine is still working..


Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Westy's Accessories

I did have concerns, but after talking to my elecy friend and showing him he deemed it ample for the stock lights..
If your running higher wattage high beams then either replace the unit, or bridge and use relays to supply power to be sure.

8 months now and mine is still working..


Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

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That advice is incorrect.

If you are currently running 60watt high beam bulbs, by you linking them together you are now running 120watts through that one set of contacts and fuse.

So technically you are running a higher wattage.

What you do with your truck is up to you but advising other people to do that is dangerous.

Thanks for the help. Now, before I open up the column and stick my thumbs into everything, what does the light selector box look like and where on the column is it located?

it will be the box that the headlight stalk is connected straight to

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Conradk

Thanks for the help. Now, before I open up the column and stick my thumbs into everything, what does the light selector box look like and where on the column is it located?

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I tried to find a photo of the switch with the white plastic cover removed so you could easily see the contacts but didn't have much luck.

In this thread it gives a very good description on how to remove the switch.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...tor-Stalk-97GQ

and this website in figure 3 you can just make out the contacts behind the white plastic cover.

http://www.carsrus.com.au/nissan-gq-...tch-88-98.html

Hope this helps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yendor

That advice is incorrect.

If you are currently running 60watt high beam bulbs, by you linking them together you are now running 120watts through that one set of contacts and fuse.

So technically you are running a higher wattage.

What you do with your truck is up to you but advising other people to do that is dangerous.

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We got this, and he deemed it fine to carry more than the 140W I'm running..
If your running 80W globes then I'd suggest running relays.
But yes, you run at own risk. It's working for me though..


Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

Some feedback. I managed to open up the column and remove the switch, open it up and check it out and reassemble everything in 10 minutes by simply dropping the column to the lowest hight adjustment. No problem with the switch, but that very good advice and another learning for me. Turns out that there is a relay in the circuit but it is faulty (I was fiddling with the relays whilst the high beams were on, heard one of the relays click and the dead circuit suddenly came to life). Thanks for the help guys.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Conradk

Some feedback. I managed to open up the column and remove the switch, open it up and check it out and reassemble everything in 10 minutes by simply dropping the column to the lowest hight adjustment. No problem with the switch, but that very good advice and another learning for me. Turns out that there is a relay in the circuit but it is faulty (I was fiddling with the relays whilst the high beams were on, heard one of the relays click and the dead circuit suddenly came to life). Thanks for the help guys.

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Where in the circuit was the relay, where is it physically located...

It looks like it was tied into the RH high beam feed close to the headlight and then the spots were also wired into the relay. I guess some used their head and realised that juicing up the factory wiring with spots was not going to be clever.

Car manufactures tend to build wire looms with cable sizes large enough to do the job and that's about it.
beefing up the power demands is playing with fire.
having interdependent switches and fuses is a safety devise / build spec.
and really should be left as the Nissan Gods intended.
burn your 4x4 to the ground with suss wiring, will insurer still pay out ?
Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yendor

That advice is incorrect.

If you are currently running 60watt high beam bulbs, by you linking them together you are now running 120watts through that one set of contacts and fuse.

So technically you are running a higher wattage.

What you do with your truck is up to you but advising other people to do that is dangerous.

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What this member is not pushing to you guys, is he is an auto elec, so his advice is vital!

Tim

120 watts = 10 amps load.
in the little wire that was designed to handle near half that.
1 side may well have a slight capabilities higher than 1/2, but again doubt double the strain.

another reason there's independent power for left and right is, if 1 side fails you should still have light.
not trying to harp on, just looking out for ya bro.
cheers