Fitting GU Recovery plates.

So my missus thought it would be nice to buy me something. Awww, A pair of recovery plates for my toy. Wicked! Now I just have to work out how to fit them. Well the left side atleast.
As most are aware, the left side of the chassis rail has the holes but no captive nuts to secure the recovery plate onto the chassis.
So some researching and speaking with another Troller I thought I'll have a crack.
So removal of the bull bar took place to have easy access to the chassis rail. Once the bar was off I pried open the end of the chassis rail to gain access inside the rail.
Attachment 68308

I then used some box tubing I had lying around as a backing plate to weld on the two lower nuts for the plate. I simply drill my holes, then cut away the sections of the box tube that i didn't need with my grinder. My only source of welding was my Arc welder so I had to be careful of not blowing holes in the box tube. I then welded a piece of 3.2mm arc wire to the bracket I made so I could slip it down the chassis tube. I made another bracket for the the top bolt, one hole only of course.
Attachment 68309

An hour or so later its on. You can see the 3.2mm welding wire sticking out of the end of the chassis. I attached the wire to the two brackets I made so I could maneuver the plate into their positions.

Attachment 68310
Folded the end of the tube up and started putting everything back together.

Attachment 68311Attachment 68312

My new earings!!!!!!

Done a great job mudski . now u need yota recovery point stickers .

Mate, thats a great install.
I was lazy and just used a 35mm hole saw on the bottom of the chassis rail to get some access for a ratchet spanner, drilled the three mounting holes for the plate and used some 8 tonne (..?..been a while) bolts, washers and nyloc nuts to mount it. (lazy bugger...done a few front snatches and working well so far)
Blanked off the "hole saw hole"in the bottom of the chassis rail with a plastic blanking grommet to stop the crud getting in....

Wish my Missus bought me gear like this....:(
Haha

May have to look into this idea... I've got the right hand one attached, and the left is just sitting there waiting for me to get motivated. Not keen on the idea of drilling holes in the rail, and dont know if I could be bothered pulling the bullbar off again!

Yeah I wasn't keen on taking the bar off but it only took an hour, removing the winch completely off too so the bar was lighter. Then probably 3 hours in making the plate up with drilling and welding and playing with the kids in between....Then an hour and a bit to put the bar back on. I actually put the bar back on myself, whilst the ARB bar was heavy I could lift it in the centre and sit it on the chassis. So wasn't too hard...

probably a stupid question guys , but would it not be easier and perhaps even stronger to have recovery points on the bull bar . Or is there a reason ( possibely stronger ) that they are located where they are .

The recovery point on the chassis is lower down so a better or lower point of gravity( I suppose thats what you call it), so if your being snatched out of a bog hole you would kind of be getting a lift as well as a pull from the recovery vehicle. Kind of hard to explain... Plus I've seen bars ripped off from recoveries via the bull bar.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by boots

Done a great job mudski . now u need yota recovery point stickers .

---

Feck'em. I'll just leave them and pass by waving :D

Yep . Makes sense to me Mudski . Think I also saw a clip recently of a bullbar being ripped off .

chassis is the strongest place to put them, and yes bull bars do come off

Are these your Threedogs? My missus wont say where she bought them from but I saw pics of yours and they look the same...

Mudski - Good Job - looks like an excellent fitout, and you can never be too sure with recovery points unless you know they are done right, and yours are done right.

Mic

Thanks for the detailed information on how to fit them too, as this may help someone else who might be tempted not to do them the right way.

Mate,...... that's a neat job, well done
Cheers, the ferret

Thanks for the, thanks guys :) Just trying to put back into the community here what have given me so much.

Hi Mudski look like copies, mine would have a yellow sticker on them.
but apparently you're allowed to copy anything and get away with it.
Good fit up too. First to have these fitted to a GU.
Are they rated????

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

Hi Mudski look like copies, mine would have a yellow sticker on them.
but apparently you're allowed to copy anything and get away with it.
Good fit up too. First to have these fitted to a GU.
Are they rated????

---

That you can unless you spend the $$$ to patent your work and then even then you can someone can copy it make it bigger by 1mm then its know longer breaking the rules *L*

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nipagu7

probably a stupid question guys , but would it not be easier and perhaps even stronger to have recovery points on the bull bar . Or is there a reason ( possibely stronger ) that they are located where they are .

---

I have that shape from TJM (your originals threedogs :-) ) that I fitted to my Mav/Q. They are fairly deep. Where I have mounted them in the Mav is on the bolts that hold the front bar on, and I think the recovery points are now the lowest point at the front.

Putting them further back where mudski did would preserve the approach angle.

Mudski, thanks for taking the time to prepare the report and clear photos. Nice work!

I dunno threedogs. It had something on them as I can tell she's tried to clear any markings off them...Plus she did go out Coburg way a few weeks ago and there is a TJM out that way. Hmmmm. Anyhow, I'm stoked. I will soon know if they are not rated when I will need them.

Ideally where the bullbar mounts to the chassis would be a good spot, but with different models, bullbars etc it was universally easier to try and come up with a one to fit all styles.
I have 6 styles to suit the GQ/GU, just in case of a whacky bullbar, even have one that will bolt to the tie down point, but not sure how strong it is in the first place, if it was ok I'd only need one style

I took note of the work done to ad another plate, that got me thinking of doing the same thing, the same way.
I have a couple of questions.
Who can i get them from off here and how much, you can PM me if you wish.
Second question is this.
Has any one adapted the plates together, by that i mean a cross member from 1 plate to the other using the existing unused holes in the plates ?
I intend to machine a bar of 50 mm dia with tapped holes in the ends to slip in between the plates to remove any independent side action when both are used together as one ?
Any feed back on the idea will help.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by optic

I took note of the work done to ad another plate, that got me thinking of doing the same thing, the same way.
I have a couple of questions.
Who can i get them from off here and how much, you can PM me if you wish.
Second question is this.
Has any one adapted the plates together, by that i mean a cross member from 1 plate to the other using the existing unused holes in the plates ?
I intend to machine a bar of 50 mm dia with tapped holes in the ends to slip in between the plates to remove any independent side action when both are used together as one ?
Any feed back on the idea will help.

---

Threedogs is the man to speak to. He makes the originals and would probably be able to answer any questions you have re fitment options.

Just send a PM , SORT IT OUT QUICK ENOUGH

Threedogs is the man for recovery plates. Also I can't see how your idea would work or be better than having just recovery plates. Seem a lot of work for something that will be no more efficient than two plates...Just a thought.

Edit :beaten by the man himself. Also upon re-reading your post I think i get the concept. Seem logical but using a bridle strap should take out any sideways movement in a snatch. Unless your getting snatched out on an angle.

Don't try and over complimpate a proven system . this is KISS .like I said just PM or pop over, easy to sort out, easier the better IMO

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by optic

I took note of the work done to ad another plate, that got me thinking of doing the same thing, the same way.
I have a couple of questions.
Who can i get them from off here and how much, you can PM me if you wish.
Second question is this.
Has any one adapted the plates together, by that i mean a cross member from 1 plate to the other using the existing unused holes in the plates ?
I intend to machine a bar of 50 mm dia with tapped holes in the ends to slip in between the plates to remove any independent side action when both are used together as one ?
Any feed back on the idea will help.

---

I see your point but I'm pretty sure the points of which TD's recovery points attach to is not far from a factory cross rail. Given that and that you usually have a bull bar fitted up front to hold chassis apart I think a spreader bar across the chassis would be pointless.
And a waste of money.




Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

Fixed the original posts as the pics somehow disappeared....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

Fixed the original posts as the pics somehow disappeared....

---

Thanks for this helpful thread Marko. Looks like this is what I'll need to do with my GUII.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Plasnart

Thanks again @mudski, did this on mine today.

---

No problem mate. Glad this old thread is still helping others...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

Are these your Threedogs? My missus wont say where she bought them from but I saw pics of yours and they look the same...

---

Yes they are mine probably from TJM Coburg
You can now buy the plate with captive nuts on it
left hand side on all GQs and series 1 GU is a bit fiddly
they are very strong when boltrd as @mudski did.
You can also bolt one of thost 10,000lb hooks to it.
Use the black ones the chrome tend to break

Hey guys, so that's the left side. What about the drivers side? Is it as simple as un screwing the 3 bolts, taking the factory hook/plate off, and putting a rated recovery plate on? There should already be some welded in captive nuts right?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shazz

Hey guys, so that's the left side. What about the drivers side? Is it as simple as un screwing the 3 bolts, taking the factory hook/plate off, and putting a rated recovery plate on? There should already be some welded in captive nuts right?

---

Hi Shazz and welcome, yes drivers side is easy just undo the old hook thingy and bolt on a plate
the LHS will require dropping the bullbar,drivers side has captive nut passenger side just the holes.
Also pop over to the intros when you get a chance ,polite and all, no harm done though

What year is your Patrol??