Couple of quick Q's about the GQ

Ok, so first off, Did a 3" lift.

1. The handbrake light stays on constantly. Was going to cut the wire but decided its probably a desirable feature to have, is there any adjustment or any way to make the light go off?

2. Drop boxes or camber plates? I have heard arguments for and against both, however a local 4WD mechanic has said that he has the same setup as me and runs camber plates with no problems. I have both and will sell the one I don't use, so is there anything one way or another that is a real definite reason to use the other?

3. Creaking/clunking/knocking from the drivers footwell area, I'm assuming the body mount blocks. Is there any way to fix it? Is it a case of put up and shut up? If its not a risk of cracking or tearing anything, I can deal with it, however if there is an easy fix, or it leads to further problems, I'll fix it.

Thanks guys!

What did the 3 inch lift involve? all suspension, body and suspension???

Without knowing that I would go

Q1 - Did you adjusted the bracket for the Brake Proportioning Valve to suit the 3inch lift? , Have you check your brake fluid lately?

Q2 - drop boxes ........ not that I know anything about camber plates

Q3 - I have the same do problem :( .....do you have a body lift at all or are the the original mounts?

Suspension lift was only springs, no body lift. Valve was adjusted. Brake fluid was changed a few months ago and checked at the recent service, and is Ok. Is there a separate reservoir for the handbrake?

Hi Mate.

Q2- I think the drop boxes are better as they help re-align the diff. Not %100 though, hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge will be along soon...

No drama, I thought the same.
The way I thought was that the drop box will lower the end of the radius rod to its original position, where as the camber plates will leave the rear of the radius rod in the same position and drop the front further. Personally I'd rather use the drop boxes, however this is all new territory to me as my last car had a torsion bar setup.

drop boxes if you cant afford dropped arms. as you said your radius arm will be closer to level with drop boxes which in theory should make it feel better on the road

Q3- Could be the mushroom style bushes on your radius arms are shot which is causing meteal to metal contact where they are mounted on the chassis

Q1: If brake fluid and hand brake switch are ok, there is vacuum switch on the left hand side of the alternator (TD42) with. Small vac. hose attached to it from the vac. pump at the back of the alternator, check the hose for cracking or the switch itself might be faulty..

Ade

Newby, that was the other reason I wanted to fit drop boxes, I have 2 sets of new bushes for the radius rod/chassis (genuine) so planned to replace them and fit drop boxes. The diff rubbers were recently replaced so planned to leave well enough alone.

I can't justify spending $1200 on the dropped arms. The truck is my daily driver first and off roader second. If it was only for off road, I would do it, but as its driven more on road than off, it's not worth the extra expense if I can get a similar result for. 1/4 of the price.

Ade it's a petrol 4.2 dude. It's only done it since it was lifted, so I'll drag myself under it tomorrow and see if the cable may br snagged somewhere.

What about the switch connector at the brake fluid reservoir..?

Yep that will be my first step. I'll go through everything tomorrow thoroughly.

Hand brakes mechanical not hydraulic so fluid won't effect it. Will be the switch stuck think you'll need to remove centre console to access


Tappin N Crappin

yeah i agree with growlers, there should just be a switch on the handbrake lever, its prob needs adjusting.

Ok brake problem sorted, I pulled the console and sprayed some contact cleaner on it, and also topped up the master cylinder and the light is now out. It was one of the two. Not sure which one, don't care, but that's one problem down. Thanks for the assistance.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GQPorkroll

Ok brake problem sorted, I pulled the console and sprayed some contact cleaner on it, and also topped up the master cylinder and the light is now out. It was one of the two. Not sure which one, don't care, but that's one problem down. Thanks for the assistance.

---

good to hear mate, nothing like trying to ignore that annoying warning light lol

Q2:
drop boxes will give you more flex than castor plates and if you get the right drop boxes it'll fix your castor swell. everyone i know who went to drop boxes after castor plates... never went back

Q3:

I had this problem, even more so in the wet.... it's a GQ factory option. if it's not making noise, i worry :P
no but really, it's more than likely your body mounts. GQ are know for having them perish. the pain in the ass fix is replace them all.

http://www.nizzbits.com.au/

Nizbits is prob the best place to get them as with stuff like the, gen is the way to go

i did mine with new rubber and bolts.... clunks and groaning went away

Clunk, they're only brakes, nothing too important! I think it was the contact cleaner as it was only down a frag, but better safe than sorry.

Yeh I found out it was a body mount Munter, I will order new ones and throw them in. Can't be arsed to do a body lift, I have rock sliders and bars fitted, plus I hate everything going out of alignment.

In regards to drop boxes, I'll go that way. They look more secure and seem to make more sense.

How did you find out it was the body mounts. Just visually inspecting them or were they loose cos i'm having the same prob with my car

Two down, one to go.. Good on ya mate!

Q1

you probably have a dodgy had break switch on the leaver

or

you don't have enough brake fluid in the reservoir.
the hand break light will come on if you are low on fluid.

did you replace the break hoses?

*edit*

should have read you fixed it

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BLKWDW

How did you find out it was the body mounts. Just visually inspecting them or were they loose cos i'm having the same prob with my car

---

yeah just a visual check, but also you can lift up the carpet and pop the pugs off where the body mount is and see if there is movement on the bolt (scuff marks) but usually there isn't any tell tails like that.

just stick you head underneath and if they look perished... they are.

like i said.... it's a factory option

Yeah same here, just figured where the noise was and had a look in that area.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by growlers71gq

Hand brakes mechanical not hydraulic so fluid won't effect it. Will be the switch stuck think you'll need to remove centre console to access


Tappin N Crappin

---

Yes it is mechanical, but I agree with munter.....the handbrake light will light and stay lit if you have low brake fluid in the reservoir

GQ, I'm not sure what the answer was, as I pulled my console out and sprayed contact cleaner on the switch ad cleaned it up with a wire brush and also removed the cap and topped up the reservoir, although it was still above the minimum line. The handbrake switch was pretty corroded so I'm guessing that was the issue.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ade

Q1: If brake fluid and hand brake switch are ok, there is vacuum switch on the left hand side of the alternator (TD42) with. Small vac. hose attached to it from the vac. pump at the back of the alternator, check the hose for cracking or the switch itself might be faulty..

Ade

---

Is the little metal tab on the handbrake arm that pushes on the switch bent up or broken off?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BLKWDW

How did you find out it was the body mounts. Just visually inspecting them or were they loose cos i'm having the same prob with my car

---

The body mounts on Silver had got to the point where the small barn door would sometimes touch the rubber bumper over rider.

If you take a look at the mount, there is, from the top, the body. Then a rubber bush. Then the chassis outrigger or whatever it is called. In Silver's case next there was a gap. Then another rubber bush and a big steel washer dangling in space :-(. The space is mostly created by the failure of the washer between the chassis and the body.

I had the lot replaced with factory - yes, a lot less noises now, and feels different to drive. The bloke who did it has been on here, did a good job at a fair price, in my opinion, is well set up to do the work, and is based in Morayfield. PM me for details as I don't know what the rules are. I have no association with this bloke or his business, except getting this work done after seeing his post re certifying/engineering mods.

If you are going to do it yourself, it is worth searching on here as some other forumites gave me some great how to tips.

I got the lot replaced, as I wanted everything back to the right height/spacing from the chassis. According to internet searches away from this forum, some people do interesting things including just doing up the fastenings after shortening any crush tubes. There have also been some mutterings to do with bath plugs :-)

Thanks to all for the hints on the body creaking. Same problem with mine. Will take a look...