front mount intercooler cooking my engine

Ok, I will explain.
It is a 2000 GU2 wagon (ex zd30) auto with a silvertop td42t motor.
The radiator can't get any cool air because stacked in front are a full width a/c cooler, trans cooler, intercooler and p/s cooler.
I have a tiny little fan on the intercooler, but no room for anything bigger.
It gets very hot at traffic lights and on low range hill climbs.

I recored the radiator, and there is not enough space for a larger radiator, so that won't work.
I replaced the hub and fan with Gu turbo spec Nissan genuine and this has sorted the higher speed stuff but at low revs, does not do enough.

Unless somebody has any suggestions, I think my only option is to see if one of you blokes has a top mount that you want to trade with me. The diesel specialist suggested this, and I tend to agree.
My mate has a factory Gu td42t and his thermo goes off like a frog in a sock at idle, so I am guessing more air is what I need to keep everything cool?

love the auto, but seems to be causing me hassles?
Owen.

gday

what kind of radiator do you have in it now??

how big is your front mount? could it be modified to become a top mount?

Hi mate to help with air flow still put a scoop on the engine bay and longer bolts with washers to pack up the back of the bonnet that will promote cool air in and hot air out even at low speeds. I would say the intercooler would help if you change to top mount too. Good luck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy

gday

what kind of radiator do you have in it now??

how big is your front mount? could it be modified to become a top mount?

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I suppose I could mount it under teh factory bonnet scoop, but would that sort of defeat the purpose of a front mount water to air?
It is a fair bit bigger than the factory intercoolers and filled with glycol, so the weight might be an issue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by macca86

Hi mate to help with air flow still put a scoop on the engine bay and longer bolts with washers to pack up the back of the bonnet that will promote cool air in and hot air out even at low speeds. I would say the intercooler would help if you change to top mount too. Good luck

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It has a scoop already from the zd30 I removed?
lifting the bonnet will help when moving, but may not do much when eth car is standing still - will give it a go i guess - can't hurt?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by owen1200

I suppose I could mount it under teh factory bonnet scoop, but would that sort of defeat the purpose of a front mount water to air?
It is a fair bit bigger than the factory intercoolers and filled with glycol, so the weight might be an issue.

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Hey Owen,You did not mention in your OP that is was a W/A cooler. Changes things a little. Is it a Frozen Boost system?

With your W/A setup you have a much freer hand to move and adapt. Sounds like you need bigger fans on the intercooler element for low speed stuff? even if you have to go the chop of the grill to fit them it will make a big difference. The W/A needs airflow like any intercooler and at low speed and stationary you have none and the Intercooler is just a lump of metal.

Mate if your engine is getting hot at idle then i'd be looking at your tune mate! No disrespect to your mechanic or for that matter you, but you have not indicated that your engine is a high spec engine?? All of which will need to be applied to this conversation.

As it goes though a TD42 will sit at Idle in any temp and NOT get hot!

Fit some fans to the cooler, fit a second scoop or a bigger double width scoop. Dial back you tune a bit. Or start looking at your engine.

Re the weight of the cooler

Here is a pic of my setup of WI, it has been like this for a couple of years on a car that gets driven hard when it gets driven.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/St...g?t=1278075466

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/St...g?t=1278075466

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/St...g?t=1278075466

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/St...g?t=1278318305

You should have more room under your bonnet than a GQ i reckon. It was a PITA to make it work and fit but i am happy.

Think about some bigger fans mate, loose the grill. From what you have said in your post though its low speed stuff that i your problem, this is NOT air flow from restrictions its the state of tune loading up the boost and fuel and the ambient temp not being low enough to accommodate. Think about removing your front inner guards to allow side access to the engine bay for air flow.

Good luck mate

I have seen these high flow water pumps advertised have to wonder if they would benefit you.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Pa...item519c131a08

Thansk guys,
I like the look of your bonnet mounted system, and the benefit is that it pushes air down through the engine bay. Your setup is probably what I need.
I think that my biggest problem is that in addition to what is normally in front of the radiator, i also have an auto cooler.
Gu td42 was not released in auto, so i am not sure what Nissan would do to remedy the problem.
My mate has a manual Gu factory td42t and he has a quite large therm fan and the GU also steps up the idle when the fan kicks in to about 1000 rpm.
Mine is a GQ with no electronics to the pump so mine stays at 650 rpm even with the a/c on.
My intercooler is a barrel type as per the denco standard setup, along with the denco high mount.
The high mount precludes the use of a full width top mount cooler - I have not found a decent top mount cooler that is designed for a high mount turbo?
I don't have any issues when driving so it must be airflow?

Does anyone know if the series three grill has any more space behind it?

Where abouts in brissy are ya bloke?

nundah by day, cashmere by night.
why?

do you still have the zd30 radiator?? it looks like it, the td42 cooling system is 13.5L, I dont think a zd 30 radiator is big enough.

ben-e-boy,
the cores are the same across all GU radiators (told by three sources).
the only difference is the top tank.
the cooling system holds over 15 litres.
radiator has been recored and system flushed fully.
if I turn off the a/c I do nto have trouble with cooling.

I shoudl say that it does not over heat as such - just goes to the high end.
water temps sneak up to 120 degrees and the dash temp guage goes from below half to three quarters.
this is still within operating range, but too high for my preference.
I should be able to sit at idle in traffic all day, especially when the outside temp is only about 30 degrees.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PattyWgnOwen

nundah by day, cashmere by night.
why?

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I'm at petrie mate and fitter by trade if ya ever need a hand with anything.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nissannewby

i'm at petrie mate and fitter by trade if ya ever need a hand with anything.

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thanks newby

IF its getting hot with a/c on then id be confirming that the a/c condenser fan is turning on or working, if its not your asking for it to get hot. seen heaps of people cook engines cause they remove the fan to try and gain space.

There is no fan on the radiator at all and since the a/c cooler is against the radiator I agree this is my problem.
Looks like I am stuck with getting a top mount so I can get a fan in there?

ok, have now removed water to air intercooler
(found to be leaking coolant into engine so not good).
it was also restricting pressure by at least 2 psi - prob why it blew up?
diesel pump was shagged, so got it rebuilt.
have ordered a custom ARE top mount air to air, and replaced the original a/c condensor fan in front, and it seems better already, even in winter.

tip to the wise:
there is not enough room in the grill area of a Gu wagon for auto trans cooler and front mount water to air.

will let you all know how I go after all this.

mate, air con systems can put up to 200 degree air temps behind it, auto tranc coolers can dump 200+ degree tmps behind it too, oil coolers can dump 120 degree heats. all this hot air blowing in front of an already struggling radiator is not helping you at all when the pocket of air directly in front of your radiator can be sitting over 100+ degrees. maybe check your fan, or replace with a thermo fan set up. many people have had good outcomes from fitting the twin thermo system off el falcons. raising the back of the bonnet helps slightly while towing at 60+ kph but under that it doesnt do a whole lot, and it does almost nothing at stand still. fitting a spoiler under your radiator to force cooler air in between your finned coolers will help when doing 60 kph or more but again at stand still there isnt much you can do except for some big arse thermo fans

I have new turbo viscous hub and fan new radiator. There is not enough space for wider cores due to location of the engine. When conversion done they chucked the a/c fan which is now back in and makes a huge difference.

Would not be an issue on a manual car because the extra radiator goes on the opposite side to the a/c fan.

Hopefully all sorted now but will consider jacking the bonnet if not.

You will most likey get a pressure drop across an intercooler as you are making the air more dense and cooling it, when you cool air its pressure reduces and when you heat air the pressure increases.

Can't remember what rad are you running, some out there restrict airflow to much.
even though they may be thicker doesn't always mean better.
Agree,Capacity of rad may be a problem.
high flow water pump may cause problems to, water not in rad long enough to cool.
Have a good look at the seals around all your coolers "air paths" leaks going around the outside can be detrimental.
Even the gap between bonnet and rad support can be a loss.
Cheers

The W2A was a denco barrel cooler and it leaked green shit into engine so it is gone???

Tip on density vs pressure is good to know. Let's see how the top mount compares hey???

Other question.
Radiator is factory with new td42 top tank and new core. All GU specs.
With a/c fan now back in makes huge difference but it is winter so who knows.

G'day mate,

I don't think you might even consider this but mine is an auto Safari running front mount a2a I/cooler with 2 thermo fans in front of it and a transmission cooler behind it..my ac condenser is on the roof rack. It's not that as practical but my Safari isnt really my daily driver.

Ade

I had a similar problem some years ago when I put a V6 Holden motor in a 4Runner. I ended up modifying the radiator to a tripple pass (not hard to do) and putting a Davis Craig electric water pump in series with the mechanical pump. Never had a problem again - and I did some serious off road and towing.

All solved.
Just did 3000 km trip with some 4x4 and no over temp. Tip of day is that the AC fan is absolutely necessary. And there isn't enough space on an auto GU to fit the extra exchanger. Top mount ARE works a treat.