Printable View
Hi Rainsey, the thermo fan is 240mm dia (ebay) and mounted on top of the intercooler, when BD were fitting the engine I asked for a larger air scoop (the truck was originally a 4.5 petrol, no scoop) so the fan fits nicely inside the scoop housing with enough space for air flow for normal driving. Living on the south coast, Shoalhaven, but travelling whenever possible.
regards
Peter
Your speedo and odo should be different.Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
The reason is that the manuf tries to set the Odo as accurate within +/- x%
But, by ADR requirement the Speedo is not allowed to underread IE has to be accurate within -0% to +10% of reading + 4KPH
Bottom line is over a given distance ex factory ratios and tyres the Odo is normally very close and the Speedo overreads by around 4 to 5 KPH
Well bugger me.. and here I have been thinking I have some weird problem. Regardless, the signal is from the same source so if the source is changed, both odometer and speedo change .... I assume!Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Ill take note on Monday when I am cursing p the freeway what my Speedo reads when I am on 110km. Pretty sure it is out but more that 5KPH.
Kindest regards
Rainsey
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Sweet, thanks for that info. I am up at Gosford North of Sydney. Periodically cruise down your way so will drop you a PM next time Im heading that way. Likewise drop me a line if you are up this way.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterc99
Cheers
Rainsey
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
At 110 KPH actual (with factory ratios and tyres) to comply with ADRs your Speedo should indicate somewhere between between 110 and 125 KPHQuote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
IE... 110 (not allowed to underread) and 125 KPH (allowed to overread by 4 KPH plus 10% of actual speed so another 11 KPH).
As you say, quite correctly, the speedo and the Odo have the same sensor but are two seperate 'displays' and the two displays are set almost always set up slightly differently at the factory.
If you change your tyres by say 7% in size it will affect both Speedo and Odo the same amount because, as you say, the sensor is common to both
Sama sama if you change ratios.
Lots of people think that the Speedo and Odo have the same error IE they check speed against GPS and if it is say 10% out then the Odo as out 10% well.
On rare occasions it will be... but... it is much more common for the Speedo to overread the Odo.
Disclaimer - the above is not applicable to mechanical speedos (cable driven) or electronic Speedos prior to the ADR changes
Hey guys, not sure where else to ask these sort of questions .. sorry...
Does anyone know of a twin turbo setup on the 6.5 ?
Cheers
Rainsey
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
This bloke seems to know his chev's Rainsey
http://www.heathdiesel.com/gallery
Seen some on the Yank sites when browsing around... dunno if it is worth the hassQuote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
Guys, my conversion leaves BD on Monday heading for home. I would like to get some feedback pls on the following.
1) what brand and grade of engine oil are you using and also are you using any additives?
2) I have a Donaldson air filter Assyr fitted and have had zero luck finding a k&n equivalent - checked websites and sent k&n a note- so has anyone got a recommendation? I noticed a huge improvement in using the in over the factory Nissan paper unit in the 2.8. I will supply the part number later, but mine is the optimiser n/a crate engine, not the turbo version.
3) do any of you use either a 'water wetting agent re reduced friction or the waterless system? I am focused on outright performance and not cost.
Are there any things I should be focused on regards good practices for this engine?
Thanks phil
G'day Phil, Please do focus on cooling the new beast down under load IMHO! We've got Yank donks that had original issues already yet we squeeze them into tiny Q's & U's & Yoda's. Some blokes up FNQ have received descent sized oil coolers to solve their experiences, I believe have read ?
Hi Phil, I'm using Penrite HPR Deisel semi synthetic 15-50 with no need to top up between 5K oil changes, used about 400ml on 11k round trip to the Cape. Re coolant, I have only used Nulon concentrate mixing 50/50 with demineralised water, for max air flow block the sides and top of your radiator, as mentioned previously large spotties and winch control box in front of your grille will make a difference to air flow. Good luck with the new donk, let us know how it goes.
regards
Peter
Thanks Peter,Quote:
Originally Posted by peterc99
vehicle held up another day due to an employee calling in sick and the speedo correction module needed to be fitted - just life I guess and I am not too wound up as I know its only 10 days away once it leaves Bunbury tomorrow. Good info regards the oil and coolant - thanks. I am still trying to find the K&N equivalent filter and will let you know if I do. Its been a really good interchange with Greg at BD and he is certainly focused on the vehicle being 'right' before it leaves. The exhaust was reworked twice as he wasn't happy with the clearance on the PTO/hyd pump set-up I have for the front winch - and this is focus you want and are happy to pay for - I don't need a headache when the vehicle finally gets here.
Anyway, appreciate all the help and feedback from within the forum so far and will certainly keep you abreast of the developments.
MB, I have already worked out my plan for additional oil capacity and cooling, so will update once its completed - have to wait a little bit longer for the vehicle but its coming!Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Guys,
response from K&N is they do not have a serviceable equivalent to the Donaldson filter used on the n/a motors.
Vehicle update is it leaves Bunbury this monday - faulty tacho stopped it leaving the shop this time. Anyway, at least it will be right.
Phil
Cheers Phil,
Appreciate filter info mate!
Exciting times, your beast is coming back, happy days!
Hi folks,
Whilst I am absolutely stoked with my new 6.5 Chev, I have a slight issue with an oil leak. Thought I would put it out there to see if any one may have any ideas.
Firstly I have to praise Brunswick as they have let me use my own mechanic over east and have been covering the cost as warranty.
The leak displays itself as oil dripping off the return to centre steering damper spring. We have traced the leak to be in out around the front main crank seal. So far we have :-
1: Replaced the front main crank seal.
2: replaced the water pump gasket
3: now today pulled the sump off and re sealed it.
I still have the leak. For the life of all of us, we cannot actually pin point the source of the oil. My only thought now is some excessive crank case pressure pushing oil out the main crank seal.
I don't particularly want to spend another 3 grand shipping the truck over to WA and back so I thought I would put it out there.. Anyone with a 6.5 had any very covert difficult to find oil leaks at the front of the engine?
Kindest regards
Rainsey
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Has the oil fill point been checked its sealing? Timing cover in front of the injection pump?
Yeh,
The funny thing is that there is no splatter and no indication its coming from higer up the engine.
What makes it hard to fault fins is that the entire engine is gloss black. Bugger to find a oil sheen against. My mechanic keeps threatening to spay paint it mat grey so he can see any drips!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
where are you located again?
@rainsey are you sure it is in fact an engine oil leak. Had trouble locating a stubborn leak in The Pig and turned out to be tiny split in a hose on power steering pump.
Mixed with crud, corruption and greasy bits it looked an awful lot like engine oil on the ground! Worth looking further about engine bay!
G'day Rainsey, what a bugger mate!
I believe there is an old school trick to finding sneaky small oil leaks using talcum powder and following the snail trails to its source.
Hope it all works out for you mate, keep us all posted once you've found the bugger mate!
Cheers MB
Hi Rainsey, its a pita for such a new conversion. What oil pressure are you seeing? The front crank seal on mine has been replaced recently (out of warranty) the crank appears to have a small groove worn into it, which means it will probably leak again.
Has anyone else had this problem on the 6.5 Optimiser?
Regards
Peter
Funny you mention that... the two leaks on my 6.5 were, 1 as you described, not engine at all but grotty power steering fluid... and 2 from the Turbo oil return.Quote:
Originally Posted by Touses
Central Coast NSWQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
When the lack first displayed itself it looked like it was under the power steering pump.Was definitely not power steering fluid though. Definitely engine oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Touses
Thanks for the response.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Peter,Quote:
Originally Posted by peterc99
Oil pressure on start up is around the 60 PSI on full operating temp, 10. The front crank seal was the first thing replaced. The surface on the crank is as pure as they come so this is not it.
Thanks heaps though for the info.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Yep, all give the clean bill of health.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Ta heaps.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Totally different question. Any one put a hydraulic winch on their 6.5 using a separate hydraulic pump? Curious where the pump has been put.
Cheers
Rainsey
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Don't know much about them Rainsey but these belt driven ones in QLD look pretty descent?
http://www.redwinchqld.com.au/catego...-hydraulics/9/
Personally sticking with electric down here just in case the donk is ever unfortunately swamped/dead I've still got batteries hopefully to haul to safer ground in theory.
Yeah, agree, but with the V8 I have lost my second battery under the bonnet and running the current Optima Yellow top does not give me a hell of a lot of A/hrs to play with.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Ive always likes the hydraulic winches and being that they only draw a couple of amps, you can winch all day, yes pending the engine is running.
Touch wood, I have never been in the predicament where I have not had a working engine but I have where winching became very slow and tedious so as to let the battery recover.
Also, and I do not know if the guy was feeding me a line but a TJM rep at the Sydney 4x4 show was telling me never to winch with my front e locker on as the battery draw can have detrimental effects on the locking mechanism when winching
Cheers
Rainsey
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Speaking to my mechanic tonight and mentioned your talc idea. He liked it so is going to give it a go tomorrow :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Stay tuned.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Rainsey,Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
I have a Milemarker 12000lb hydraulic winch thats re-rated to 15000lb by an increase in pump pressure, designed by Milemarker in the USA. i imported the winch and pump at the same time, probably 10 yrs ago - my build thread is on outerlimits4x4.com, under PBBIZ2.
The pump I selected was belt driven. I was not happy with the clutch style of drive as it only had to die and the game was over, so I went for a direct driven pulley and slipped the 'A' section pulley on and off as required.
The pump was typically run at circa 1500engine rpm and had a 50% speed increase via the pulley. I had a pulley machined to mount onto the crank puleey cia the 4 bolts. This worked very well and gve me reasonable recovery speed, however I was never in the need for speed - not comp focused. The winch on one occasion ran continuously for 11 hrs - yes, had to winch a full 1.5klm as the track was like oil and no friction at all have trwin lockers, marks 85% reduction case and muddies at 12psi - no friction.
Anyway, specifically to your question, i have now decided to go with a PTO gearbox drive off the gearbox and direct drive the pump. I don't know what recovery speeds I will achieve with this setup, but if its too slow I will simply change the pump. Te system requires a small reservoir - mine is about a liter and I have installed an oil cooler as well to keep the oil temps down. I have winched in 40degC and the oil never got above 55DegC using an IR thermometer. The specs on the pump and flowrates are on the build - sorry its such a long time ago regards the details and my brain just can't hold that stuff indefinitely!.
I have already fitted a warn 15000lb electric winch to the rear as a safeguard. I was thinking about going hydraulic again but figured I was unlikely going to have to do the sort of redicous pull that I did that crazy day heading backwards, plus it gave me some versatility. I used the rear electric to great effect recently in a recovery whilst snow driving, so it was worth the pain to fit.
Hope this helps. I am not allergic to the belt drive, just wanted a constantly coupled pump without the electrical interlink of the clutch.
Sounds good Rainsey!Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
It worked for my ex during my conjugal visits. Although flour was the chosen hygroscopic substance utilised :-) !
Please do keep us posted mate !!
Cheers MB
😂 love your workQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Well guys, my beast arrived back home last night. Wasn't with a bit of trauma from the transport mob, however some choice words and reminder of who is paying the bill resulted in the car arriving at 8pm. Here's where the excitement began because the car was sitting on the trailer with the driving lights on - nothin else. Guys drove it off and was moaning about being blinded all the way from Altona to Knox because the lights couldn't be turned off! Anyway, it was still light so i disconnected them and took it out for a quick squirt. Quick is probably not the best word, as you all know 1st is so short and the motor is tight and doesn't want to rev beyond 2500. But, it pulls like a train once it gets into 3rd and is 'peppy and toey' to say the least. The exhaust note is obvious but not intrusive when cruising - soon as you put the foot down you know its not a 2.8 under the bonnet!.
Spent the day sorting out the dual battery mounting and tidying up the wiring. Unsure how the PTO driven hydraulic pump is going to work as BD have mounted it upside down in order to clear the clutch slave cylinder. Nothin is leaking but the linkages are now on the bottom of the box, not the top, so will have to wait and see. Have to mount the difflock compressor and then the CTEK Dual battery system
One thing I noticed is the hand throttle is removed - is this normal on your vehicles? I would have preferred the option to activate a fast idle - maybe its not possible or simply easier to remove it - I have asked BD about it and will see what they come back with.
The build quality is really good, lots of small things sorted out. The wiring was my headache that i generated, so nothing to do with the conversion. Exhaust looks fine but is very tightly run in places - unsure if I am getting any knocking as still getting used to the rumble. The snorkle make a hell of a sucking noise compared to the 2.8 which at best you get a faint whstle from the turbo. Since its all velocity based, I think a 4" is on the cards sooner rather than later.
Went all the way from Melb to Perth etc return without a scratch on it. I do have 2 broken headlight covers and both the front fender parkers are out, so will check that later in the week.
Question
I have temperature monitoring gauges and can monitor up to 4 locations - where and what would you recommend. Temp threshold max is 300 degC. I was thinking inlet and outlet on engine for cooling, but what else? They are simple clamp on sensors with a crimp connector and hole to go over a bolt or stud.
So happy as a pig in mud right now.
Rainsey, further to my previous note about the hydraulic pump location, my plans to run off the PTO have hit a snag due to the PTO being upside down and the ultra tight location. I have decided to revert to the belt driven assy and have made a plate bracket that mounts on the drivers side of the motor with the pump sitting over the top of the lower radiator hose. I will post up some shots when its assembled. There is a bit of jinking around to sort out the hoses and expense also - circa $400 just for them, so have to get it right. Once I get this operational I will investigate and resolve the PTO option, probably with a different pump that can give me the flow at lower revs to the one I have.Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
You are the man .... hit me with some photos. Will owe you big time.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Kindest regards
Graham
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Couple of shots. The angle for the installed plate is terrible, plus there is too much reflected light from under the car so the flash won't fire. I will have a crack later tonight in total darkness for the installed plate. I am yet to actually fit the pump as i have a small relocation of the starter motor cable to make so a hole is there, but it will work. The hose itself will simply be a 'whatever is avail, but looks in the order of 450mm inside dia' at a guess. The pump pulley is 50mm, the driver is 125mm, so nice step up at idle, plus when I get my hand throttle assy back from BD I can bounce the base revs up also. I intend tig welding an identical 125mm pulley onto the existing PS pulley - waiting for this to arrive from BD now. The outer pulley will have the centre removed.b Its a simple system that I used on my 2.8 for 10 yrs and its simple. Probably takes about 3 mins to adjust once you get the belt ready.Attachment 69802Attachment 69803Attachment 69804Quote:
Originally Posted by rainsey
I don't know if your engine is the same format - mine is Optimiser N/A, but the two bolts I am using are the ones that hold on the power steering bracket, 10mm or there abouts. I might end up installing slightly longer bolts as the bracket plate is 6mm and with the nut, there is only room for locktight - might get a nyloc on with uck, but no spring washer.
You can see the bracket is a total oddball. If you think its of value I can trace it out for you and post - I don't think a dimensioned drawing is going to be feasible as its 'cut to fit' and all using 'backyard garage tools', so would be nicer with a mill or laser cut. PM me with an address and i can do this over the weekend.
Thanks kindly for the photos. I have the turbo Optimiser and being that I am a thousand or so Km away from the truck at the moment and will be for the rest of the week, I cant compare your description to what I have.Quote:
Originally Posted by PBBIZ2
Will be home in a week so will check then.
Kindest regards
Rainsey
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
OK, here is the clearer shot of the bracket installed. I am guessing this arrgt would be similar to yours? Anyway, when you get home you can advise. I will do a tracing of the bracket anyway as i am trying to get this thing together and once its bolted in I don't want to touch it!Attachment 69808