Sorry my bad, edited that last post for not checking it haha, Was actually 52ltrs. So averaged 11.4 the whole trip
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Sorry my bad, edited that last post for not checking it haha, Was actually 52ltrs. So averaged 11.4 the whole trip
Gq wagon, 6" lift 35s, tube winch bar, 12k lbs winch, sliders,
Rb30det @ 300 wheel hp through 4.88:1 diffs,
regardless of hwy or town, 17.5l/100km.
Going bigger turbo soon to create more vacume at cruise speed to reduce fuel usage.
current setup is too small and I'm using hp to push exhaust through it :)
I'll be doing my around town figures soon ,
as I'm changing a few things so it will a before and after
My RB30 GQ is getting about 17.5 litres per hundred too, but it ain't got anywhere near 300 hp...
When I first got it it was totally stock, it used about 13 litres per hundred or thereabouts. I've added a few things like rhino roof rack 2 inch lift, snorkel, second battery, fridge etc, so a bit more weight and wind resistance I suppose.
Off-road on sand with the tyres down at Yeagarup over the Easter break it was more like 29 litres per hundred! I need to repair and fit up my aux tank next to have something approaching range.
I've got a 1990 RB30 carby. 31s, 2inch lift, roof racks, long range tank.
City/Town: Its not too bad - the guage drops fairly quickly EVEN though I drive like there's an egg under my accelerator.... but here's the good part:
Highway: 14-15l/100km consistently!!! Cruise about 2700rpm on the flat at 105km/hr, with foot to the floor up big hills etc.
Sand: Around 25-28l/100km but its worth it for the sweet power of the RB on the dunes. basically unstoppable unless you run out of petrol
Maybe a useful info: with 145lt "Long Ranger" tank, I've documented all my fill ups and on the fuel guage (petrol remaining): Full - (who knows?!)ltrs, 3/4 - 90ltrs, 1/2 - 70ltrs, 1/4 - 50 ltrs, Empty - 30ltrs
I have just fitted a 3/4 roof rack ,so that must throw the figures out a bit.
just went through a tank and thought i would do some calculations. i did 595Kms and filled the tank with 81 litres which equates to 13.61L/100Kms. pretty damm happy with that! thats wayyy better than before the engine rebuild and even better than the old petrol clunkers i had lol
My RB30 got 13.4 ltr/100km highway driving after fitting the headers, removing the heater grid under the carby, and disabling the pre-heat flap. Very happy with that.
Shit yea. Very good..Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Your on par with the td42..
I was thinking the fuel usage jumped when I put the chip on it but I just realised I put it on the same day the 33s went on so that might be the reason for the fuel increase ? I think standard tyres are 31" ? I remember they were road tyres & looked like they were off a commodore [emoji13]
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Larger dia tyres will use more fuel... but... don't forget you will now travel further than your Odo thinks you have.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprock
If you haven't already done so you will need to check your Odo calibration and use a fiddle factor in your distance travelled.
Note that your Odo error may possibly be significantly different to your Speedo error.
Yeah that's what I would've thought so I checked the speedo against my GPS speed reading & it didn't seem change ? I expected it to as the difference between new & worn tyres on the drive of the truck is about 3-4kmh ... I'll do some more testing as I was more excited about putting the chip on it at the time .
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32" in a AT build with a HWY pattern is closest to OE
I lot here get very good return running 265s/32"x 10.5"
down into single figures for some. I run a 11.5" x 33" [mud]
and get about 13-15/100k depending, speedo is consistant with the GPS
As posted you can't necessarily go by the speedo reading errorQuote:
Originally Posted by Sprock
Speedos are required by law to be dead accurate or overread ex factory but not so the Odo's
Speedo will normally overread a tad ex factory and going to 33's usually gets them very close to actual
Odos are usually very close ex factory and 33's will get them to underread a tad
Definitely not always the case but more often than not in my experience
Rito mate thanks
2002 GU wagon 3.0lt , auto , piranha dual batteries , 3" lift , chip , needle & Dawes valves - just gettin started
When you say 'a tad ' how much do you reckon ? Roughly ? ie; 1000kms on odometer would be .......1050kms ? Or not that much ?Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
2002 GU wagon 3.0lt , auto , piranha dual batteries , 3" lift , chip , needle & Dawes valves - just gettin started
Well when I went from 31" to 33" my speedo went from being 8k behind at 100km/h to smack on 1-1 with the GPS. .Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprock
When I was coming home from the farm (about 600k) my odometer was about 40k short of the distance traveled via GPS. .
So it can be a fair bit..
Rito Westy thanks mate
2002 GU wagon 3.0lt , auto , piranha dual batteries , 3" lift , chip , needle & Dawes valves - just gettin started
Same as Kallen ,,,,, I heard vehicle manfacturers were allowed 10% error in speedo readings.
Get a speeding ticket they only give you 3% error funny eh
Agree with Westy... Once you 'know' your errors it is a lot easier and you only need to sort it out once
The Odo to Speedo relationship can be up to 10% or more and won't change with tyres, diffs etc
Lets assume (rough figures for example only)...
The Speedo indicated to actual is out, say 7%, and reads 107 at 100 actual and you then increase the tyre size by say 7% (31's to 33's) it will now be spot on
The Odo indicated to actual is out, say 1%, and reads 101 for 100 K's travelled and you then increase the tyre size by say 7% (31's to 33's) it will now read 94 K's for every 100 travelled
If you change the size of the tyres by another 7% ish (33's to 35's) the errors will change by the same percentage
If you change the diff ratios by 5% ish by going from say 4.3 to 4.1 the errors will change by the same percentage
ADR's were changed a while ago now and the current formula is a tad hard to type out but is essentially...Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
The speedo cannot underread at all at any speed (IE you can't be going faster than indicated)
The speedo must overread by between 0 KPH + 4 KPH + up to 10% of the actual speed
EG at 80KPH actual the speedo must read between 80 and 92 KPH (80 + 4 + 10% of 80 which is another 8)
It is because of the 'new' ADR saying that it cannot overread that the Feds can get away with zero tolerance on speeding if they so choose
We got 15.54l/100 on the highway from Melbourn in our 98 2.8L GU. Is there any way of improving that?.
Anyone know how many litres in the main tank would be used when the light comes on?
I decided to see what fuel eco i get but i wasnt anywhere near a servo to record the litres for a fill up.
Dunno mate. They usually allow 50k so maybe 10L
Another question to all running sub tanks..
Do yas fill up both tanks and work from both..
As we know the sub transfers a bit each start up so the added extra could be giving false outcomes if just working from main tank use..
There is about 20 ltrs left when the light comes on with mine anyway ,hope that helpsQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
run 40psi for hwy driving and stick to 100kph as best you canQuote:
Originally Posted by Marc Allen
I'll put $20 in the sub when I fill up if not going away, and transfer when the need arises.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
Going away I'll fill both obviously. $1.16 a ltr ATM here
I always try and have at least 1/2 tank full in the sub around town.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
I don't think the sub tank draws much on start up, maybe only couple 100mls
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Id always have some fuel in the sub, even if just to keep things lubed
I fill both tanks at the same time... once the main runs out i fill it with half of the sub tank.. once that runs out use the rest of the sub tank.. helps keep a bit of lube in the tanks at all times.
Since changing from a Dawes to Tillix i have got a lot better economy.. not sure how as i have the needle/spool rate set about the same... I used to struggle to get 700km out of both... today my fuel light come on, on the main and it just clicked over 700km... So pretty much my whole subtank is bonus economy now...
700km out of a main tank is about normal for a DI?
And bonus was i got a whole tank worth of driving without having to replace my pistons :D
That's around 7L/100kQuote:
Originally Posted by Softy
Surly not
90L / 700km = 12.86L/100kQuote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
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12.85l/100 by my calculationsQuote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
haha, bacho beat me to it
Last 4 fills.
Tillix
12.82
12.66
Dawes
14.06
14.51
Second fill since owning..
Very happy.
So with the robe to beachport run we've averaged 16.3L/100.
But also noticed that although the sub tank needle hadn't moved I put over 6L unto it..
So it does transfer a bit on start ups..
Have you noticed if the sub tank is OE or been updated to 75ltr aux.
16.3 a tad high but a good starting point. its still new to you so probably
sticking it to it a bit more than normal.
They say a bit will transfer on start up
CRD a bit thirstier than the mighty Di lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Yeah sure!!!!
Unfortunately only stock tanks..
But I'll do the breather mods to the main so that'll get me back up to 115L
And I'm happy with that economy..
Last weekend was 70 odd K of tough low range.. that sucked most of it..
I expect it to drop when on the road and more when travelling..
Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
Interesting concept, must try that myself...
I filled up today again. New record for me 11.46L/100 Bloody happy with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Softy