Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

Finally down to the very last hydraulic drip on the hydraulic winch setup. I have a 1 drip a week leak out of the supply line fitting to the pump on the tank, needs a complete tank drain to resolve, not going to happen in a while. Still have a sticky DCV that won't free spool, or return to open centre without a blip on the controller, have bought a replacement valve but it also can wait. Finally retrieved my travel from my brother after 10 yrs held captive, got a birthday so tomorrow off yo get some wood with the barge, fingers crossed all goes ok

Was out early today, Victoria in a bit of a cold pinch at the moment. Interchiller setup wa off the dial, coolant temp of minus 2 with ambient of 7deg, equates to a post supercharger air temp to the engine of 30 deg, nice and dense, egt's sitting 200 to 300, fuel temp 16 deg, very happy

Had the car out a couple of times on successive days last week, one hauling a 2T trailer of wood, ran well, except has developed an annoying fuel leak on the pass side bank of injectors, replaced a couple of saturated return line rubber hoses, seemed to settle down, thought they may have been perished, but turns out they are less that 7000K old. Anyway, dived into the spares, refitted two of the originals, seemed fine then yesterday the leak was back. Degreased yesterday, waiting for it all to dry up, got me beat at the moment.

Also, I fitted a catchcan to the motor, and then developed an oily weep near the filler that was bubbling when the engine was running, opened the oil filler and it stopped, so disconnected the catchcan and the bubbles stopped. The pressure drop across the catchcan is essentially zero blowing into it, but enough to find a tiny gasket hole. Bloody location is a full front of engine tear down, not happening, so will ditch the catchcan, and gouge out the tiny bit of gasket and bog it up with silastic of sorts.

Lastly, about to dich the Redarc radiator low level alarm. It goes off intermittently, sure its the clip as @mudski had issues with, not using water or getting hot, just need to drop power iff it, cant just take the terminal off at the radiator as it screams its head off.

Phil.

What size is the leaking hose? What type of hose are you using also? And what clamps are you using?

As for the Redarc LWS. Since replacing the clip i have had no issues. I just used a insulated female blade terminal and cut a section out of the insulation so the termical could be fitted to the round head on the sensor. So far so good....

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Originally Posted by mudski

Phil.

What size is the leaking hose? What type of hose are you using also? And what clamps are you using?

As for the Redarc LWS. Since replacing the clip i have had no issues. I just used a insulated female blade terminal and cut a section out of the insulation so the termical could be fitted to the round head on the sensor. So far so good....

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I think the fabric covered hose is like 1/8" dia. Its the right stuff, just think its a poor quality. I have now ordered two lots from different vendors, one from the Chev joint in Melb and the other ex Germany. Interestingly both kits use clamp clips on the hose, mine are simply push on, which is very convenient, as they are a bastard to get to, but maybe this is the issue.

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

I think the fabric covered hose is like 1/8" dia. Its the right stuff, just think its a poor quality. I have now ordered two lots from different vendors, one from the Chev joint in Melb and the other ex Germany. Interestingly both kits use clamp clips on the hose, mine are simply push on, which is very convenient, as they are a bastard to get to, but maybe this is the issue.

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Do you have room to use EFI clamps?
https://spareco.com.au/index.php/pro...uel-injection/

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Originally Posted by mudski

Do you have room to use EFI clamps?
https://spareco.com.au/index.php/pro...uel-injection/

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Not really without a major disassembly under the bonnet. I have very little room, the style the hose comes with is the pliar squeeze sort with the tabs. They will be better than nothing I guess and there is supposedly very very low pressure as they are just pushing fuel back to the tank. I had a look again just now and the dripping must have stopped over night, maybe it was the residual on the chassis and hose that was slumping originally after I swapped the hoses over? I will monitor. Actually, a small cable tie would do the trick thinking about it as the return lines have the rolled barb ends.

I'd suggest using the spring loaded type clamps then. As you can run the pliers length ways down the hose to slip them on. If you get what i mean, and have access to the hose that way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

I'd suggest using the spring loaded type clamps then. As you can run the pliers length ways down the hose to slip them on. If you get what i mean, and have access to the hose that way.

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Thanks Mark, yes will do that, just jumped under the barge and its dry , so thinking this could have been a goose chase again after swapping out the saturated hoses.

Finally installed the 12v heater pads to the fuel tank x 3/200w and a single wrap around on the fuel filter. A number of years ago, I was 'over filtered' meaning I was running a 5micron final filter as wanted to protect the new injector pump, however came unstuck on a 3 day snow camping trip. Despite running anti tell additive, still ended up with a clogged fuel filter, so now I am sticking with the 20 micron unit and fuel additive and finally the tank and filter heater pads. It isn't a lot of fun trying to get out of the bush pushing an honest metre deep snow with bugger all fuel avail. Anyway, hooked it up, ran high temp feeder cables, each circuit fused, system dras 42 amps and jets up very quickly, auto temp limited at 75 degC, set up via a dedicated Anderson plug cable, only there for warm up to get the fuel flowing and then the 'system' will heat it up. I have also insulated the external pads on the tank, heading to Clark Rubber for a 4" foam tube for the filter heater Assy.