Ok, I have a blank on order for my 2.8 and will remove the butterfly. Question is, where and why do I need to fit a catch can please?
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Ok, I have a blank on order for my 2.8 and will remove the butterfly. Question is, where and why do I need to fit a catch can please?
Sussed it, should have used the search function more thoroughly.
I've seen where people have asked whether to block the EGR at the exhaust or the inlet. Why worry. I just took my entire system out. Block a few hoses. Throw the plumbing away.
The inlet side is blocked with a self made plate (contemplating measuring boost at that point - any comments).
The exhaust side is where I installed my pyrometer sensor. It's more accurate here than on the down pipe.
I know it some states this might be considered a bit radical but with the plastic cover on who can see? And if you get tested you're going to have issues regardless.
I have used it with and without the valve hooked into the ECU. Seems to make no difference although it is hooked up now.
300K+ on the ZD30.
I think the biggest advantage to blocking the EGR is the cleanliness of the engine oil. Before blocking the oil was black even immediately after an oil change. Since blocking it is a lot cleaner.
love this thread
Great info, sure to carry out this mod while rebuilding the engine
Well after 13 years of owning my 2.8 GU. I finally had the courage to block the EGR, remove the butterfly valve, and disconnected the charge air temperature sensor. The car is now performing much better
Thanks mate.
Great thread
Great thread, and template. Thanks
A&J
Might sound stupid and hello again guys! Just wondering if it's fine to do this with the tb45e on gas?
Cheers
Probably no need as patrols don't emit soot like diesels do.
But again it probably won't hurt to suck 100% clean air..
You may want to have a read of this before making that decision http://www.swri.org/3pubs/ttoday/Sum...n-and-Cool.pdf
From what I can understand, you wouldn't really benefit in blocking the EGR (if there is one on the TB range of engines)
This has been a seriously good read, all 29 pages.
I now know roughly what I need to do to my CRD.
Got to start assembling the parts.
cheers
Ralph
Only takes around three or four stubbies Ralph to complete the job.
Hey folks .Just got my gauges fitted and will attack the egr blank soon. I haven't pushed the car since gauges were fitted, but so far my temps are 200 on idle to about 400 round town when I gun it a little bit.
Are these roughly the average temperstures??? I have a 2 & 3/4 beautydesert system in the car so far. I understand my EGT's will rise if I blank the EGR? Correct?
Also with the dawes i'll be able to control the boost max and spool up rate ( needle valve). Could someone in a nutshell help me understand how more boost lowers the EGT's??
Jamie.
Check out Chaz Yellowfoot Threads on Dawes installation, it will answer all you questions and more.
Even google it, it covers all about the imfamous ZD30 engine
@ James is your gauge in Celcius?
I get 450 degrees towing sitting on 110kph
thanks threedogs. i have the autron gauge and i'm pretty sure it is celsius. i have the common rail engine. and as i said i am yet to put it under load. i will never tow so, ill have to take it up a hill somewhere and test it out. what sort of PSI boost does your sit while its towing at 110km/h ???
thanks.
jamie.
Great read guys, very informative. PM sent for acquiring one for my patrol thanks the ferret
Me again, thanks 2 Mudski for the plate and fast postage, installed on Christmas Eve. All easy thanks to information this thread. Cheers guys
Great post. My nads is nearly complete!!!
So u guys only bloke off the 1 end not both? Is it worth doing both?
Just one end, blocked is blocked!!
Cheers, the ferret.
Hey guys, i'm about to fit the provent 200 to my 2.8.
Regarding EGR and inlet valve block i was told that this could end with higher fuel consumption.
Can this be true...?
Cheers
Mick
Some people notice a higher boost level and a slight power increase.
Weather the right foot gets excited by this is up to you.
You only have to block one end of the egr pipe.. Most do the intake end..
And also to get the best from the mod a tune is recommended. But if your human keep doing little bits of the NADS then tune once complete a save a few $$$.
Blocked the EGR of my 2.8 yesterday - nearly no more smoke, engine runs smother, Turbo spools a little earlier...
happy as a pig in (well, you know... :wink: )
Cheers
Mick
Hi,
Thinking of blocking the EGR on my 3.0 Di, Series 3.
Silly questions, but is the best spot on my 3,0lt and where can this be found.
i know there are lots of pics in this thread, but i just can not seem to figure it out. Also my EGR blanking plate came with 2 holes and not slots, does that mean i need to remove the whole pipe??
Tx,
Late reply but...
Theres a silver cast pipe on the rhs of the motor that runs upwards to the inlet manifold. IT has two bolts at the top and two at the bottom. The plate goes into the top. Hint, undo the two top bolts and use a long screw driver to ever so lightly pry open the pipe by levering it. it oply needs to open enough for the gasket to drop out and the plate to go in. So only a tiny amount of force i needed. You need to remove the engine cover and its easier on the job if the IC is removed too.
Mudski,
Thanks heaps.......
EGR blocked, Needle and Dawes installed. Eventually managed to get the piping correct with your PM.
Max boost i am getting now is 16PSI, and temps look great. Need to go foa long ride now and see.
Must say that my initial thoughts are WOW... very responsive and feels great.
Now need to tackle that PLASTIC in front called radiator......
Will post up a new thread on it....
It's a good feeling Beucam. Feels like a different car doesn't it?
I'm a newbie here and think this is a great thread with great info, but after reading all the differences between 2.8, 3di, 3crd and 4.2 I am probably more confused now than I thought I was (i'm no mechanic but want to do the best by my truck).
I think I might need to PM you Ferret (hope thats ok) to get the definitive on what to do to my 2012 3L CRD, but am thinking I don't want a blanking plate with a hole in it, would be like having a new bucket with a hole in it eh??
So I am thinking a blank plate (no hole) and a scan gauge connected to my OBD2. The bit I don't get is the stuff about turbo boost levels and Dawes valves and VNT (do I need that??). Sorry if that sounds a bit dumb but I just want a simple fix without having a cab full of gauges etc. I am hoping the scan gauge can give me the readings i need.
If there's an idiots guide for us CRD owners I'd be most appreciative.
I've read the thread a couple of times and just hope I'm moving in the right direction, cheers all, Mark
G'day Bindi. I'll tell you what I know and what I've done from my experience, as I've been in the exact position as you after I bought my CRD.
First thing I searched was, do CRD's need a EGR block. I searched this forum as well as a few other forums and lots of googling, and most answers were, yes it does. But then there were a few people saying no it doesn't as it does nothing on a CRD for various reasons. So I sat on it for ages, deciding whether I should or shouldn't blank it.
What really kicked things into motion for me, is when I seen a bunch of CRD's at wreckers opened up, and at around the point where the EGR enters the block, was all caked up, and the cylinders near by, 3&4 from memory, were a completely different shade of color due to heat from the EGR.
So I decided to just get it done and while at it, I'll get the dawes and needle valves fitted. After installing it all, I began kicking my self for NOT doing it earlier. The whole power scheme of the car changed. It had plenty more power and a nice smooth turbo spool up. The EGT's drastically dropped, because the EGR was blocked and there was now more boost flowing through system. The fuel efficiency changed too. Happy times all around!
Some issues I've had...
After blanking out the EGR, my car stalled several times for few hours after fitting the plate. But then it fixed it's self. Cannot explain why that happened, and as far as I've researched nobody else around here had such an issue.
The car now throws out an error code P0401. This is because EGR is blanked. The engine light doesn't come on, but P0401 comes up on my scangauge. I don't bother resetting it, because it only comes back minutes after I turn the car on again. And as far as I know the codes doesn't alter anything, it's just there to let you know something is up. No harm done.
My car has power mood swings. It's had this before and after fitting all that up. It's something with the turbo spool up, which I'm yet to work out. But, Mudski helped me out here heaps in fiddling with the needle valve to get it spot on. It's now been a week since we tampered with it last, and the car is still going good. Fingers crossed.
My personal advice is get that thing blocked asap. At minimum get in touch with mudski and get the boost control bits sorted out, the patrol will thank you for it. He is the man to talk to. The only other thing I should mention, is, your patrol is 2012, so I'll assume it still has warranty. If and ever you need warranty stuff done, I'm not sure how nissan will react if they see the bits you've tampered with it, especially the EGR block as it is after all, illegal.
My 2c !
Thanks Hodge, appreciate that, I'll be in touch with Mudski.
So I am definitely going to get a blank plate, and wonder if it will be safe to wait until the patrol is out of warranty before I fit the dawes valve?? Or am I going to still get turbo boost issues bad enough to negatively affect the running of the car (I will be towing a caravan).
Cheers!!!!
If you need to take the car in for warranty repairs just take the plate out...
The other thing I forgot to mention, is the dawes & needle boost control, and EGR block go hand in hand. Once you drop the plate in, your boost spool up goes up a bit, so you will want the boost control to compensate for that and adjust it accordingly. And the OTHER thing to mention is, you will need a EGT and boost gauge installed to read whats happening under the hood, as without it installing any of the above mentioned stuff will be next to impossible.
thanks, and just looking at the scan gauge 2 and the spec states that when connected to the obd2 port that it provides a monitor of turbo boost levels. It would be great if could also monitor EGR temps too. Does anyone know if it does this, as I'd really prefer to avoid having extra gauges fitted to the A pillar?
My objective here is to have a well monitored car, but also one which I can take in for any service/warranty work without having to remove loads of stuff. Much easier to just remove the scan gauge and blank plate/dawes etc.
Does anyone use the scan gauge for boost level monitoring and EGR temps?
EDIT: JUST FOUND THIS ON THE SCAN GAUGE WEB:
There is currently no ATF Temperature X-Gauge for any Nissan vehicle in Australia. Linear Logic is currently experimenting with different codes. Also EGT and Engine oil Temperature gauges are NOT available.
SO I have my answer I think, pity it won't do EGT, and oil temp would be real handy!
Cheers
Mark
After more searching of forums and googling I am still a bit bamboozled.
I think for starters I'll fit a scangauge2 and see what is happening with turbo boost etc before any mods. Then I'll do an EGR block, but hang off with the dawes valve and additional gauges until I see whats happening. I would have thought that the EGR temp would go down with the EGR block, but please correct me if I have this wrong.
And again my apologies for being a bit of a wally in the engine knowledge dept!