Mudski GU Build Thread

Is that superior rod solid?

I dont understand their reasoning for a solid item.

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Originally Posted by nissannewby

Is that superior rod solid?

I dont understand their reasoning for a solid item.

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Yeah its solid. Strength i can only assume is the reason. The 4140 moly rod is solid too, but bigger again in diameter.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Yeah its solid. Strength i can only assume is the reason. The 4140 moly rod is solid too, but bigger again in diameter.

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Solid is not as strong as hollow bar for example. To bend hollow bar you need to stretch and compress at the same time. Those solid bars are still strong no doubt.

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Originally Posted by mudski

You can see the how much the sway bar hangs down from this front end shot.... I need to cut off and re weld that washer too seeing this pic....
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=66116&stc=1

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Here is a quick stab in the dark. Take that rtc damper off and go for a lap and see what happens. The coil itself is rubbing on damper

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Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy

Here is a quick stab in the dark. Take that rtc damper off and go for a lap and see what happens. The coil itself is rubbing on damper

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Yeah i thought about that Ben. The only thing stopping me from doing it is that wear mark was there pretty much since brand new. I would assume it would be making noises since new. But. I got nothing to lose...
Ill give it a crack.

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Forgot to ask how the conversion went, did you have
any minor problems or it went ok from the start?

Wrap some silver foil around it tightly and see how you go

Most of the conversion went fine John. The only real hiccup was the wrong cross member was used. But was fixed easily enough.
So today i replaced the radius arm bolts and nuts today and the rear bushes in the arms radius arms. Man applying Neverseize to the bolts makes it so much easier to remove the bolts.
I also repladed the to front body mount bolts as the original ones were badly rusted and pitted.
Then i thought to give the front diff housing a coat of POR15. It was looking pretty tired. Looks much better now.
Then i attempted to remove the front tail shaft so I could give the uni's and slip joint a good clean and regrease but the bolts were too tight and it was 5pm and the beer was calling so i left it and will do this another time.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

Most of the conversion went fine John. The only real hiccup was the wrong cross member was used. But was fixed easily enough.
So today i replaced the radius arm bolts and nuts today and the rear bushes in the arms radius arms. Man applying Neverseize to the bolts makes it so much easier to remove the bolts.
I also repladed the to front body mount bolts as the original ones were badly rusted and pitted.
Then i thought to give the front diff housing a coat of POR15. It was looking pretty tired. Looks much better now.
Then i attempted to remove the front tail shaft so I could give the uni's and slip joint a good clean and regrease but the bolts were too tight and it was 5pm and the beer was calling so i left it and will do this another time.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

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Serious question have you ever managed to grease the Unis and slips while they are still on the car ? What a turd to do

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Originally Posted by lucus30

Serious question have you ever managed to grease the Unis and slips while they are still on the car ? What a turd to do

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I find the unis are easier to do when facing up. The joint seems to be open a little more so tip fits better and gets squarer to the nipple..

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Originally Posted by lucus30

Serious question have you ever managed to grease the Unis and slips while they are still on the car ? What a turd to do

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Yeah it was quite easy. I just want to remove the shaft and clean it up and get all the road grime off from the last 13 years.
Dont forget to grease the slip joint too. The nipple is often missed because the cross member is in the way.
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