Will have to redrill and tap or eszi out the broken bolt if mounting with the eyelet.
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I would not stuff with getting the broken one out if its not sharp against the rope. Drill and tap a new Hole or see what the other guys can suggest. Are you going to remove the winch from the vehicle, if so then it opens up some access options, plus you might like to go with a welded bar 'hoop' on the drum so you simply pass the rope under the hoop and tie a big knot on the end, or have seen this on Thomas PTO, they drill a hole in the side of the drum side plate and pass the rope thru the hole and big knot, but you need the clearance to spin the knot.
Hi Jaycee, did the rope come with that lug like that or did you add it and crimp with bolt cutters? If it came like that then it is pretty average, if you did the crimp then it will do. I would add 1 more crimp though as there is room to do 1. If you have access to a hydraulic crimper then do it again.
I would probably use an ezyout and take the broken bolt out. It will be a through hole and not founded so should not be tight, it might be rusted though so some penetrative spray for a day will help.
If you can get a new bolt in that goes through that lug then happy days, do that. If not, I sourced some 5mm dyneema style rope off ebay and use a length to tie the rope onto the drum. I tie it too the welded ring on my Deltatek as I use 12mm rope and it would not fit through the lug.
You really want a good connection and at least 8 wraps around your drum for safety, this stuff is slippery but locks on well. Put the 8 wraps on then sitting in your car have someone walk out front holding up your rope until you can see it out front over your bonnet, when you can see the rope for the first time sitting in the car that is your safety length. Add a couple of metres for safety and then paint it yellow. That is then end of your rope. It it not a define measurement, it is a position on your rope, wherever it lands.
That bolt just holds the end so it doesn't circle around the drum all the time.
I've even just lay the rope along the drum and then run tape over it, then run the rest of the rope over the taped part as I wound it in.
I'd suggest you track down one these rope locks/brakes/bowties - https://www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au...TENTION-Device
Attachment 82218
I've used one before and they really lock the rope onto the drum, you'll never risj running the rope off the drum if you use one. Also you may like to fit a sheath down the drum end of the rope, then you can tell when you're down to your last 1, 2, 3 metres etc.
this is more realistically priced, but it's not hard to make your own if you have the stuff.
https://www.devon4x4.com/rope-retainer.html
Thanks, that one is a bit shorter and only allows 4 runs of rope v the 8 to 10 on the Red. After currancy converions there is not much in it. Both Road Runner and QuickAzz are out of stock of the redwinch ones and Quickazz are cheapest as they dont charge postage.
I will be buying one as long as it fits the 12mm rope though it. i like it.
I used to run this hook. What i dont like about it is that i hvae to punch out the pin to remove the hook and then the rope has a steel thimble on it and your washing machine wont like it.
Most comp guys have gone to this style of hook. This is what i have on my Himount.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-3t-13m...t/302934214848
It also wont get full of mud like the hinged type.
Loop on the end of your rope. Half hitch through the hole for the win.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/10/48.jpg
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That's a knot yeah?
I was going to use hammer lock. I've got the same hook bug rated 3.2.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/10/49.jpg
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Not planning on taking out the winch @PeeBee
@MudRunnerTD that's how the rope came with the lag. Purchased from roadrunner.
@10G thanks for the links. Think I'll be going that way.
Thanks for the help guys really appreciate it..
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