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Just saw this post on fvabeook which you should find interesting Phil. Not sure where you are at with clutch selection now but reading this and your expected power output I reckon your only real choice is the viper clutch.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2019/09/80.jpg
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Thanks Chris, I looked at a range of options including twin plate. The Isuzu clutch 6x6 was rated at 600 ish, so that cut it out. The Viper ended up being too much hassle and to be honest it was in the basket of a custom set up in my mind. The flywheel, and existing clutch had to be sent to Brisbane and then a replacement set up to suit.It needed either a new flywheel or machining and re-drilling - they could not be certain. I could not expect a workshop to have the barge sitting around for a week whilst this was going on.It was just too much stuffing around. I think their product is the goods, but just didn't work for me.
I have decided to go with the Exedy Safari HD ex BD as they and Exedy are standing behind it with a 2 yr warranty so regardless of how hopeless BD are, Exedy have the runs.(rated somewhere in the order of 900 continuous and 1200 peak, so will see how that runs - took a lot of hassling to get these values) i contacted UFI re their HD cluch - @AB is running one. Could not get the info or feeling of certainty out of the guy I spoke with - all he wanted to do was clap on about how crap the chev was - good bye fool.
By comparison, the Clutch Industries unit in mine was running in a guys vehicle in WA, the guy who has a similar set up to mine, and he put 100,000klm on his, but the flywheel has toast by the time he swapped to an auto - and he towed a 3T van from Bunbury to Cape York return with that under rated clutch. Either, he is a total animal, the clutch is very de-rated, or he wasn't getting the torque he thought.
Right now I simply want the beast sorted with the belt issue and its then more or less capable of getting back on the road. Aircon needs a couple of hoses and gas, then slow burner wire tidy up. I am looking hard at the Interchiller setup to get the inlet temps down and resultant EGT's (Torqueline Garage can do a completed W2A and A/C chiller system, will see how everything sits for now). I have to still hook up the water injection system as well - plenty to do. Hydro Boost is perhaps the next ticket after the clutch I think.
If you've convinced of anything Phil (if i can call you that), it's that if I wanted something like this..to buy one that's already complete haha.
Nah it's not so bad when everything works and fits as it's sold... But my projects always seem to end up like this, over time, over budget and eveyone wants to tell you how you should have gone a different way!
I hear ya, and to be honest, I wanted to see if I could actually do this, have wanted to get dirty into a motor to some degree for years. The disappointing thing has been the detail and the money laid out for what should have been a bolt together affair - simply didn't land there. I am very close now, just the belt alignment and an a/c hose, so its not that bad I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-TJ-0
OK, fitted the under bonnet self adhesive felt and its come up a treat. Tough and difficult to cut and trim, but with the right applicator roller, it roles out without a fold or stretch mark. Rated at 260 degC and does not burn. Really finishes and hides all the carnage from the multitude of mods over the years.
My retired neighbour wandered over today for one of his daily chats and turns out he was a panel beater in a former life, so implored me to hand over the new bonnet and the paint so he has something to do whilst I am back up on site - what an offer, top guy, so busy tomorrow cleaning all the over smudged silastic sealer used at the bonnet to scoop interface.
Attachment 79338
That under bonnet lining looks awesome Phil, do you have any details on what it is?
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https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Premium-...72.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Soun...72.m2749.l2649
The trick is to cut the template out of cardboard first, then copy onto the felt using a texta. I used a combination of sharp scissors and a heavy stanley knife. The self adhesive backing is very sticky, but peel-able. Ideally placement is best with 2 people, but I managed by myself , just needed to plan the 'drop'. It looks better than a factory fit. I used the original felted cardboard nissan as a preliminary template then optimised from there - the framed cutouts were simple enough to trace out with the knife.
Yes I like it a lot!
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BD have advised the replacement bracket, pump and 8 rib pulley will be in Melb friday/monday next week. I have paid for the Exedy Safari HD clutch and flywheel, which is also in the same consignment. Bonnet getting sprayed this week also, so with luck it will be on the road by Tuesday Oct 8. From there into a local shop to do the clutch.
Ooh excitement, you'll be ripping up the pavement in no time. .
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That would make a Sik Head Lining replacement in the GQ too mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I think you are right Darren. Its a very good finish, tough as hell, is a sound and temperature insulator and sticks to any change in shape or direction without creases.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Just saw your post on "what has made you happy" and the photo of the clutch box
Given your run with BD did you get what you ordered...
It is the same part no as this...
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-SA...MAAOSwAvFZ4ppa
Cheers Trevor
Unsure if these are the same clutches. My model is NSK-7699STHD. item number 02562984. According to BD and Exedy the Flywheel torque is rated at circa 1100nm. Who knows with these guys? Either way its got a 2 yr warranty so if it slips, it gets replaced. Its been a battle with these guys but they have always come around to provide the support, except this time I have to arrange for the flywheel to get machined instead of them supplying a c/o unit because they have 2 styles and cant recall which one is fitted to mine - another bee sting in reality.Quote:
Originally Posted by tryan277
According to this I guess it fits the 3.0l Diesel flywheel
Part No : NSK-7699STHD
Type : Heavy Duty Safari Tuff Clutch Kit
Suit :
NISSAN PATROL DX LEAF SPRING GU, Y61 UELY61 10/2007-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX LEAF SPRING GU, Y61 UETY61 03/2013-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX, ST COIL SPRING GU, Y61 UENY61 10/2007-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX, ST, ST-L, ST-S, TI GU, Y61 TESY61 12/2006-10/2017 SUV 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD AT/MT
NISSAN PATROL ST COIL SPRING GU, Y61 UERY61 03/2013-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX, ST, ST-L, ST-S, TI GU, Y61 TESY61 04/2000-12/2006 SUV 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo Direct Inj {118KW} 4WD AT/MT
Cheers Trevor
Interesting Trevor. This clutch is fitted to a re-drilled Chev flywheel. This clutch is fitted to all their s/c'd, turbo and even twin turbo installations, but unsure how many have come back? Maybe its fine - who knows. the numbers on the original ebay post are still in excess of the modified UFI unit I was chasing, so think its fine. Maybe the detail is in the internal part number 02562984? I have spoken with the Exedy rep in WA about this clutch and he says BD have bought hundreds of them, since changing from the Clutch Industries unit, so I am not too worried. The short time I have had it on the road - 20klm, the original clutch was holding fine, and its rated around 60% of this one. Time will tell.Quote:
Originally Posted by tryan277
OK, bracket arrived late yesterday, so launched into it this morning, total 8 hrs to refit, run new lines and new PS cooler as suggested, fitted up inlet airbox, fitted new bonnet, took it for a quick squirt and nothing expired except a new fuel return hose on an injector has decided to leak, so all good. Tied up for the next couple of months with ;wifey do stuff; so wont be able to carry on with the tasks, but clutch is next. Glad this journey is nearing an end to be honest, won't be taking on a job like this again.Attachment 79446Attachment 79447
Trevor, spoke with Exedy today. The clutch I have is rated at 1100nmT at the flywheel and 1250kg clamp force. This is a value detuned by 15% so the max values are as stated plus 15%. Regards why the same clutch would be put on a 3.0ltD, well it isn't. Its all to do with the actual article number, so they have a range of clutches with the same product code, being the 7699STGD, but there is another code that is applied to match the torque rating of the destination vehicle - what that is for the 3L is unknown.
Also, another bee sting from BD. Today they inform me the clutch they have supplied will 100% fit straight on my flywheel - last week they didn't know which flywheel was fitted to the car, and the week before I needed an exchange flywheel that had been wash ground because the flywheel in mine is supposedly crowned for the Clutch Industries clutch - what a load of rubbish, but they hold my $150 credit for the exchange flywheel I supposedly don't need, so it had all better fit.
Stoked for you Phil. Cant wait to see this in the Flesh. Cant wait to hear it Whistle!!
Will sound Better than @MBs for sure!! His has not made a sound for over a Year....... Bloody Chevs!!
Was running it only two nights ago Daz and never actually stopped in the first place ya whacker :-)
I’ve still got another 3.5year timeline to catch your GQ beasty revamp top efforts mate :-)
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Bhahahahaha! Owned I am Sir!!Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Luv it guys. Have you fixed the rear tank MB? I will try and drop those injectors over on my next breakQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Not yet either mate:-)
What injectors good man ;-)
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Replacements ex my truck ya goose! Do you still want them?
Yes please Sir :-) [emoji106][emoji106]
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OK, back in Melb for a day then heading north again tomorrow. Took the beast out for a run after doing another radiator burp, and 5klm out, lost all gauges on the dash - bloody hell, what now. Anyway, kept driving and its very responsive in 3,4,5. So got home, parked it up and started the search, Main 75a fuse was blown, and after an hour of searching found a hastily run cable hand slumped onto the exhaust manifold - yep that will do it. Cable ties it up and away, then replaced fuse- all good. back into the garage for another 2 week rest and then its time to start fitting up the water injection, boost gauge and diving into a complete re-wire - time for a tidy up. Starting the research into the Interchiller setups on the market as focused on keeping the EGT's low. The new radiator keeps the temps down nicely as well, combined with the soluble oil coolant.
For those wondering what the sound is like from the s/c, I think if similar to running on old jeep service cookie cutters to be honest. Its nothing like the noise from Mad max - but not too intrusive, however you know its there and its a head turner when you pull up at the lights as its whining away nicely.
I also had a leak develop on one of the injector return line hoses. Swapped out the hose, no difference, so after a bit of a hunt found the return line ex the engine to the tank had a slight kink. This was straightened out and bingo, al good.
I will drop them over on my next break Mark.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
A Complete Re-Wire! Your Scaring the Sh1t out of me Phil! :pQuote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Enough is enough I reckon. I have bought a heap of wire id numbers of different sizes. I think I will basically strip from the appliance, then rerun the cables to the marshall fuse boxes, a dedicated on for IGN/ACC powered devices and the mains to the rear and another fuse box in the front. Its 'kind of grown' out of control as you have seen. I expect to be finished by 2021.
That is exactly what I did in the GQ mate. Even some of my old wiring from years ago scared the shit out of me. It was way way easier to just write it off and start from scratch. I have full confidence now that all my looms make sense, are all fuse protected and are not overloaded. I assumed nothing and just ran a new line. I stripped a full wheel barrow of wire out of the GQ!!! Was liberating.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Plan well. Sub boards and distribution blocks for the win mate. Good luck. If you need a hand I'm happy to give you a day.
Thanks Darren, appreciate the help. I will think this through and see how far I take it. Right now I think its the myriad of accessory wires that are the complication - taking feeds off scotch locked connections and no cable ID is a pain. I have the know-how and method, just needed the discipline 20 yrs ago to do it right - I think there is some saying around' do it right the first time and then forget about it'.
Yep did the same with mine with the rebuild amazing how much crap comes out. . . Will be interesting to see with yours Phil will have to get a photo then a trip to the copper merchant[emoji6]. . .
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yeah i found that starting fresh was very simple. All your accessories are mounted. a few new ones too but for the most part you have them all in place. Strip out all the wire then run your main runs to your Sub blocks. Then loom out to each item one at a time and your good to go. You might get away with even using 7 core trailer wire for some of it if you wan colour but for the most part you want red and black. Go for it mate, if something doesnt work you will know why..... you have not done it's loom. you can work systematically through each accessory and you will transform your car mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Good luck bud, daunting as it sounds you are all over it mate. clearly have the skills and it is just time that is your killer here.
Always need a beer or two wiring I find, slow & steady keep it all neat. . .
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Fyi also. I found some 15amp 7 core trailer wire at Jaycar... handy.
There are ways to neaten it up a lot. Throw a PLC and basic screen in and you can run say like 1 can bus cable to the rear to a slave that then can switch on accessories. This kind of stuff is cool and would be trick.
Thanks Matt, but I am an absolute electronics dinosaur when it comes to the actual 'doing' and I also am a total hater of electronic boxes that have a zillion switches about the size of a pin head. I think in the hands of an electronic head this would be great, but for me its going to be multicore and fuse boxes I reckon. Darrens description above is pretty much where I will start, accessories and pigtails, number from there to fuses and switches - really basic. As Rossco mentioned, its a slow and steady with attention to the detail race. I have a couple of areas in need of serious cleanup - under the dash from hell and also the drivers front pillar with a 25mm dia corrugated sheath - then there are the 100 wires under the bonnet - nup, it needs a tidy up and a solid birthday. I have the time as I don't really get my recreational legs back until I get out of the mining game again.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Couple of steps forward, couple backwards. Found the fuel leak, was a leaking nut on the injector. Went for a drive today to Yarra Glen, via Mt Dandy and back, nothing blew up or caught fire, but the alternator has stopped charging, so that's for next time. A relatively new Varta crank battery decided to die over the last weeks, dropped to 3V, so luckily had another cranker sitting around, that's a win or now.
Measured up for the interchiller and made a cardboard box template, found a hiding spot for it, so will place the order this week on it. Still stewing over the cost of the W2A unit, measured up the avail room and will start the hunt in earnest. Davis Craig pump arrived, liquid inlet tank also on its way.
Ordered another s/c drive pulley with the correct offset to get the belts aligned, will be here in a week or so.
Vehicle is a dream to drive, I gave it the boot leaving my brothers place and he said it sound amazing, and the torque dumps the drivers side rear corner down under hard acceleration. Floating along in 4th is so easy now, plant the foot and off it goes, but still not used to the off accelerator jolt yet as its nothing like a lagging throttle response, it 100 - zero in a snap. Just different. Was a mild day today, but temps on gauges only got to 1/3. Clutch goes in Dec 9.
Pulled the trigger today on a Bullet integrated intercooler that sits inside the existing inlet manifold and is the same as @poindexter has installed. Exhausted all other options due to format and ridiculous cost for a full custom unit - crazy numbers. Following up with the interchiller purchase in the new year. Inlet manifold needs to go to QLD for the fitment also, another delay in getting this thing out and about but gives me time for the wiring I guess by default. I/c due some time in late Dec/early jan.
OK, here is a pic of the intergrated I/c core that sits inside the inlet manifold and directly under the s/c itself.Attachment 79698