Thanks Ferret. That's great info.
Cheers, John
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Thanks Ferret. That's great info.
Cheers, John
EDIT, OH YEAH!!! don't kneel or sit on the top radiator tank, as you WILL snap the overflow spiggot!![/QUOTE]
I always wondered how come my overflow spiggot got that way, I know I didnt do it, an Im not game to bend it back!
I remember getting the local mechanic to do tappet clearance a while back, just putting 2 and 2 together.
Getting back to the EGR blanking thread
TB4.2 EFI GQ 1992 ti pet/lpg........... have I got an egr that could be blanked off? I am always looking for improvement, Marty
Dunno mate, have a look and see if you have an EGR valve hanging off the inlet manifold,
Cheers, the ferret.
I had a quick look under the bonnet and around both manifolds, nothing there like what I would expect, did a internet search found someone who thought TB4.2E does have an EGR? but I shall keep lookin. I have blanked EGRs before on a pajero I had but that was plainly visible. I am going to keep lookin online see what I can find cheers
On the Y60s TD42 and (T) you can just unplug it under the bonnet at the 3 solenoids.
I had an 03 ZD30 and when I blocked it at 180000km's nuber three intake runner was reduced to about a five cent peice with black sludge (just like the photo's in the reference doc). I pulled the whole intake all the way to the head to get rid of it. It worked fine on the old ZD30 but what happens to EGT's on the New CRD. My new truck is not here yet so I can't fit my guages and do it. Has anyone with EGT/Boost guages done this mod??? What was the outcome??? How big of a hole did you require in the blank to prevent the EGR from throwing a code???
Hello everybody...
Well am kinda messing up alot with myZD30 now. EGR block went so easy after following up what was brought up in AKSNISS reference document, that i would like to thank and appreciate the good job done.
My problem comes after not obeying the recommendations of installing a boost gauge and taking readings before EGR blocking... however, i decided to drive as it is, but then ended up by having excessive feul consumption and engine loosing power. For some reason i decided to unblock the EGR again and have it back to its original state as it did already 200,000Km by now and the EGR block was done when it was approx. going 160,000Km.
Now i am not able to adjust back the VNT, car is losing power as well as it had a weeeeeew sound coming from the turbo but now it has disappeared. A Nissan mechanic advised that i have a problem with the injection pump "i don't know what he is speaking about" anyway i didn't feel comfortable with him neither convinced of what he told me so i decided to get your professional advice.
I Hope that i have not screwed up everything. what i am sure of is that the the turbo is still alive as when i remove the hose that is connecting to the VNT actuator there is some air suction and the VNT lever is moving.
It will be great if i get some help from you guy to DIY as where i am staying i cant find a descent mechanic to help me get sorted. Cheers..
Doubt the pump mate. I find most things that go wrong are something you touched (VNT screw). Try to set it back to original position firstly. Then see what ya got. Get the boost presure gauge. Even if ya have to borrow one for a couple of days. Your blind without it.
Just blocked the EGR on my Terrano, a stainless steel paint scraper made the ultimate sacrifice and got made into a blanking plate.
I blocked it where the EGR pipe goes into the inlet manifold downstream of the EGR valve, really easy to get to on my truck.
Pipe was full of hard crusty black gunk too.
Cheers for all the information here.
Edit: Opps, she wont run or start now. I think it has more to do with me disconnecting the battery then blocking the EGR. Is there anything special you need to do when reconnecting the battery after a few hours disconnected?
I have disconnected my battery again to try and reset the ECU and also give it a good charge. In the mean time I decided to have a wee look inside the inlet to see if the black crud was through it as well...
Looks like I will be pulling it right out to give it a good clean.
Are those two butterfly's the ones you recommend removing as well?
NZ Daz, You have more work to do, It's not just a matter of blocking the EGR, there are other important mods.
Boost guage, Pyro, etc etc.
It may pay you to do a search and read some of Tony's (Ynot) posts.
There is a lot of info on the subject.
Cheers, the ferret.
Cheers mate, I am a believer that you can never know enough about this kinda thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by the ferret
I have the boost gauge installed and the pyro is mostly done just need to do the hard part and actually get it in the exhaust.
I have read a lot of Chaz and Tonys info.
Will be looking at dawes & needle valves shortly.
OK, I may have missed it (a couple of cans has that effect)!!!
Is this mod OK to do to a TB42e???
i'm with you cliff read through the hole thing and still not sure (maybe i'm just slow haha) not sure if it's recomended on a CRD and from what i've go you should get a boost and pyro guage or a scanguage is that sort of right and what else should i look into please
Thanks all, makes sense will give it a go to moro.
Do you have any details on how much the economy actually improves--25% seems a LOT. Is something like that your experience?
BTW looks like you are talking about a 4.2. Anything on 3.0??
maybe a stupid question but wood this work whit an 89 mod gq diesel??? and if so do i doit the same as above ??
If you have a 2.8 or 4.2 with EGR valve, yes you can block it.
Some 2.8s don't have EGR (GQ)
Cheers, the ferret.
This is what I did on my GU IV 4.2 tdi
First thing was to to make sure I could easily undo all the bolts that needed undoing, I ran a spanner over each to loosen them about 1/2 a turn, luckily they all loosened up OK without any skin off knuckles!
Next I undid the hoses to the intercooler
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/timber93au/1.jpg
and removed the vacuum hoses connected to the intercooler, making a note of which hose went where
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/timber93au/2.jpg
I then removed the 4 bolts that hold the Intercooler to its frame
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/timber93au/3.jpg
With the Intercooler removed I could now get at the bolts that needed to be loosened to install the shim
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/timber93au/4.jpg
After loosening these bolts a light tap and pry with the screwdriver and I had enough space to put in the shim
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/timber93au/5.jpg
You can see it here partially in place. I coated the outer edges of the shim with a bit of high temp gasket goo.
The butterfly on the Intercooler was removed by undoing these two screws
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/timber93au/6.jpg
You need to slacken off the adjuster screw to get enough space to get the screw driver in to the butterfly
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/timber93au/7.jpg
Bolted it all back together and all seems well. Took me about 30 minutes all up.
I can now go and compete in my offroad comps on private land. Removing the shim would be a reversal of the above process, of course I will do this before driving on public roads.
Love it, well done mate.
Cheers, the ferret.
That all looks much easier to get at than on the 3.0L CRD!
I don't recall seeing a butterfly valve on the intercooler on the 3L. Is there one, and should I have removed it?
Also, I have changed the ASE boost control valve that I had fitted; for a Dawes valve because the adjustments on the ASE one were too unpredictable. However I have os wound right in now and my boost is sitting around 13-14 max, and I am still getting EGTs over 600 when I tow up hills or into headwind at >100km/h. What's my next step to get a little more boost and hopefully lower my EGT a bit? Will an after market intercooler help here?
Harry
this is a great read , thanks to everyones input..seems ive got a busy weekend coming up..
Use upper cyl lube buddy.Quote:
Originally Posted by YNOT
I've used just about all of em over the years and swear by Morreys for this.
Don't ever use the fuel doctor, my 97 lancer dropped fuel acconmy by at least 20% every time I tried it, 3 tanks and in the bin with that.
One even cause engine ping big time and Morreys cured that the next tank, so when on a good thing.
Sorry can't remember name of ping one but it was on the shelf last time I looked in s/cheap as a kit-drip bottle and oil, fuel saver maybe!
Tried Penrite one also, seamed ok but doesn't have cleaning additives in it, I rang penrite tech to confirm this.
Its alot cheaper than Morreys but I personally like having cleaner fuel system so recon it's worth the extra $.
Actually had in-depth conversation with Penrite tech and told him I'd buy their product over Morreys if it cleaned also, as I swear buy their engine oil. My old MQ L2.8 ran for years on Penrite with stuffed rings, but just kept on going and was the only oil that slowed oil consumption. and I use it in my Gtr and when I reco Gtr engine the mechanic commented to me how good the bearings were and He agreed Penrite oil was the reason.
Any way, not to mention time saved on maintance.
The junk fuel we have to put up with was regularly fowling injectors on Lancer and my Gtr, causing alot of work.
I can now go along time before I worry about dirty injectors etc.
Now I think about it, a little less valve train noise also.
If you decide to use 2St oil I'd use outboard oil as it's far superior to the others, it's engineered better and larger outboard motors are very expensive to repair/replace, not to mention human life.
Hope this helps
wery cool thread i will try it as soon as possible
I'm going through this process at the moment-fitting boost & EGT gauges, EGR blank, Dawes valve, manual boost tap.Quote:
Originally Posted by NZDaz
As per the question above, what is the go with these butterflies on the ZD30? There seems to be conflicting info on whether to remove them... I assume the smaller on closes off as the EGR is opened, what does the larger one do? Do both get removed?
BearGUST,Quote:
Originally Posted by BearGUST
You don’t need to remove those butterfly valves on a ZD30 Patrol. You do on a 4.2 and 2.8 with EGR, but not a ZD30 because it has a variable turbo.
The smaller one is the swirl control valve which opens above 1250rpm to include the other 4 intake ports and the larger valve closes when you shut the engine down to reduce vibration on shutdown.
So normally the ECU changes boost level to offset the EGR levels in the chamber?
Yes. The ECU controls the vacuum solenoid which in turn controls the variable turbo to give optimum boost levels to allow EGR to flow. A conventional turbo can’t be controlled electrically, so the only way the ECU has control, is to close a butterfly valve to reduce boost and allow EGR to flow.Quote:
Originally Posted by BearGUST
Under normal conditions the ECU can reduce the VNT to increase boost which will increase backpressure between the engine and turbo and push more exhaust gas into the EGR valve, but for maximum EGR flow the ECU needs to reduce boost to allow more EGR into the inlet manifold. When this happens, the exhaust temperatures skyrocket because you’re going to be under load with large amounts of EGR and less cool oxygen entering the intake system.
This is why bypassing the ECU boost control solenoid and blocking the EGR improves performance and reduces EGT’s so much.
Thanks Chaz, I just wanted to make sure how It all works before I do the mods.
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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?3jgo4x
Set aside a couple of hours to try and block off the EGR.
Took off all the peripheral bits first and located the flange.
I don't know if anyone else has encountered this, but there is a moulded metal heat shield/shroud fitted over the EGR flange on the GUIII 3.0 litre turbo
There are 4 bolts holding it place. but the bloody thing is totally jambed in between the flange and the manifold, it will need a lot more stripping down to get it out. I couldn't even get a grinder in to cut a piece out. The shroud is preventing access to the flange nuts.
So ended putting it all back.
Definitely will have another go, but will need more time.
I noticed when I took off the rubber tubes to the turbo, the insides were black and oily. Not really a good thing when it is meant to be a fresh air intake.
Mate, What motor you got?? I may be able to help you with some pics, doesn't sound right to me.
Cheers, the ferret.
You’re trying to do it at the exhaust manifold! Way Too Hard….Quote:
Originally Posted by myzathreeby
Try blocking it at the top of the EGR pipe that goes to the inlet manifold…. Much easier and a 5 minute job.
Oily intake tubes…………. That’s why we fit a crankcase filter or Provent. All turbo diesels have oil in the intake – normal but not good. Remove the throttle body and see what a mess you’ll have in that!
Hi ferret, It's ZD30Di GUIII Auto
thanks fellas, I will have another go
Here ya go mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by myzathreeby
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...ockzd302-1.png
Hi fellas, just thought I would add to this thread. I just put my EGR block plate in yesterday mine is an 08 crd ute & the difference was amazing, I have a scangauge & my EGTs dropped by 180 deg C from around 550c cruising to now being 380c or thereabouts which is huge.....The turbo spools up much quicker, the ute drives much easier as in does not seem to work near as hard now. The fuel has come down from 16l per hundred to 11l although I still need to go for a good long run in order to determine the real drop but for a 20km run to town that was the difference, and that has been a daily run for 3 years always getting 16l per hundred on the scangauge now shows 11 so must be something in it.
My only issue is the boost has gone from 14psi max to 19psi max however the max pressure now appears not be under load it maxes out now when just cruising at 100kph or so, a bit weird beacause if you accelerate from 100 when it has high boost the boost drops back instantly to about 12psi then when you back off to cruise again the boost comes back up to 17 or 19psi, any ideas why this happens & what I need to do to rectify it would be a great help.
The ferret told me to put in a bleed valve to bring down the boost to 14psi but I would like to hear of other people that have had this issue & how they dealt with it or if 19psi boost is ok to run with, I am no mechanic & dont know the tech stuff.
By the way if anyone needs an EGR block plate I can highly reccomend the ferret great service & good quality gear, plate is stainless steel & 30 bucks delivered why both making one for that.......
GTB
Here ya go mate.
Thanks for the diagram ferret, Looking at some of the other pictures on the thread, I was totally on the wrong side.
the whole thing makes sense now.
as you said, it looks like an easy job....next weekend now.
Must say I am really enjoying this car. The more things you do on it, the better.I like to get to know all the ins and outs and quirks. makes you more confident when preparing for a trip
Cheers Mate.
Hi guys bought the ferret egr plate and the young bloke installed it yesterday, made a fair bit of difference especially in second gear, pulls really well and very happy with it, just need to clean the maf sensor to complete the first stage of setup. We now have the 3" dump and exhaust and the egr blocked and it certainly made a difference to the troll, thanks again Rod for the plate and instructions.
All good mate, glad to help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Googla4x4
Just heep an eye on the EGT's and max boost.
Cheers, the ferret.
do any of you fellas know anyone that has done this and noticed the cleaner oil? I do what I can to try to extend the life of my 2.8 (drop oil/filters 5k), and not flog it too hard.
The blanking plate looks to be a good idea if it keeps the recirc soot out of the engine.
um, sorry for a silly question, but how is the exhaust crud getting into the oil in the 1st place?