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Fitting was pretty easy to fit, just bolts in. All the instructions are included and are easy to follow. I did have to tidy up a weld on the top of my drivers side chassis rail to allow it to sit flat. This was also in the instructions as a possible action. Hardest part is lifting it on, you will need to find a friend to give you a hand for a couple of minutes, other than that it's a one person job.
Thanks again Rod. With my 3L i un-installed a kaymar rear bar, which more or less I imagine, will be the same bolt on system as this one.
Cheers !
I imagine so. There's 8 bolts. 2 on each side at the back of each guard, and the 4 that hold on that hoop in the centre of the rear bar.
Busy arvo today, out with the old and in with the new :D
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While I was there I flipped the tail shaft around in preparation for longer shocks
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In doing this a found one of the uni's had a slight unevenness in its movement which probably explains the slight vibration I get at speed. When I do the engine work I'll sent the shaft away for a couple of new uni's. Also hoping that in the mean time by flipping the shaft and correcting the pinion angle some of the vibration goes away.
Tomorrow I'll tackle the front end.
Very nice. Shit mate you're going all out on this rig aren't ya? :)
Mate I wish I had both the time and $$$ u do!! Love the work though have to say I'm very jealous
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Turn out this is a maintenance activity ... It's resolved a lot of bangs and rattles, should have done it long ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Can't take it with you mate. As for the time, well there's 24 hours in a day. Day time with the family (or work), night time with the Patrol. Just makes it a bit harder as using a rattle gun at 11pm tends to upset people, don't know why...Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_nail
Well replaced all the front arms today. Panhard, tie rod and drag link. The radius arms are later on. Was all pretty straight forward. Used the trolley jack to put a bit of pressure on the bottom of the ball joints then given a whack with a hammer and out they pop no problems. Measured the arms as best I could, but it will need a wheel alignment, although it drives pretty good so I must have gotten it pretty close.
Can't believe how much better it drives now, bumps are bumps and not crashes which reverberate back up through the body.
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Very pleased with how it came out. I ran out of Locktite so will need to get some more during the week to finish it off properly.
First of the bits have arrived :D
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What are you buying now?!
I haven't opened that box yet, but it should be a black 4" snorkle with ram head. Just waiting for the 4" airbox, CC Cooler, injectors, 12mm pump, 18g turbo, clutch and aluminium flywheel to turn up...
I will be conflicted soon between watching bathurst or installing this stuff.
Do both.....
Bring the telly into the shed! HahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
What airbox are you going to be using? And who are you using for the 12mm pump?
It's a Fatz 4" airbox and a UFI pump.
Geez mate will there be anything left of the standard 4.2 on that car? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
Hahaha I just hope the performance doesn't remain standard..
Steering wheel is standard ;)
Highly doubt it considering all the goodies you're throwing at it ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Will you be doing some sort of a dyno tune on this, before and after to see results? Would be keen to see the difference.
Should be real happy with the gains in perormance with that setup.
Order your cc cooler now though if you havent already. They really do lack in delivery time and customer service.
It won't be getting a dyno run before hand, I don't have time. It might get a dyno run when it's finished if I can find some time to get it done. ATM I'm being told I've got to take it to Melb or Bris to get it tuned as there's no one in Syd that they recommend. Also having trouble getting the flywheel, so the clutch won't be going in until that turns up, not pulling the gearbox out twice. As a result it might not run up fully on the dyno anyway without slipping. Needs to be operational by mid Nov for a trip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Hope so.
The cooler should already be in transit and with me early next week.
A few bits and pieces are starting to turn up now. :D
Starting with 25m of 8 B&S twin core
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Circuit breaker and I found some manual resetable circuit breaker blade fuses...
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And my 4" Radius snorkle :D
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Looking forward to doing this
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Just wondering what brand of snorkel this is? Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
Radius Fab snorkel matee...Quote:
Originally Posted by Skitzyrex
I'm interested to see how those blade fuses / circuit breakers go. They were labelled as Narva products on the eBay site, but I don't see the word Narva written on them anywhere:confused:
If i recall correctly all Narva products come packaged in Narva labeled packaging.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
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Another couple of bits turned up today
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Airbox should be here tomorrow, turbo leaves today, pump, clutch, etc. should be here next week :D
Get ready for sone serious induction noise through the firewall when you get that cooler on. I was a bit taken back when i first drove mine with the noise, bug ysed to it now.
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Hmm, sounds ominous, maybe between the cooler and the 4" snorkle I won't be able to hear the tick tick tick it makes along with the gearbox rollover noise. Super excited, looking so forward to it.
Snorkel is the probably the next thing to do on my car. Not for a while though. ..
Your ticking is from the pump? Mine started to do that within the first 400ks of my trip, it was that loud people in the street looking.
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Not sure, i'm referring to the standard TD42 tick tick (pump or valve gear??) What pump are you running? I've heard the high performance pumps are a bit noisey off throttle?
12mm compensated pump on mine. I recorded it with my phone and mms it to Mat. From what he could hear of it, he thought it wasnt right. I was told its the plunger in the advance mech hammering, as the noise disappears when i press the primer on the filter head.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
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Are you running a lift pump? I'm sure Mat and the guys will sort it out for you.
Another piece of the puzzle arrived today :D 4" Fatz airbox and pipe work :icon_driving:
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No im not mate. But the more i read into this the more it looks like i should be.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
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Does that fit in, or does anything need to be moved? Im not entirely convinced on these air boxes yet. Considering i get 160rwkw from a factory air box and Safari snorkel. Then i think, what would it be witg a 4inch snorkel and a better air box. 165rwkw? Is it worth it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
What mine is lagging, as i spoke with Mat about this, is it has balls to the wall up to about 3500'ish rpm then it seems to run out of puff.
It would be good to have the balls to atleast 4000rpm i reckon. Mat said its the pump, most aren't built to supply enough fuel after that type of rev range, or something like that. Dunno, he spoke a lot when i met up with him.
Id love to spend a day with him and Bene, it would be a real eye opener....
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I've been told/read 2 no 3 schools of thought with the lift pump. First up, the lift pump helps with throttle response and clears a flat spot around 2,500 rpm. Also been told that you won't notice any effect from a lift pump untill you start seeing big revs, approx 4,000rpm. anything under this you don't need one (this is also with a 12mm pump and not a stock pump). Seems to be consensus on 7psi but variations in required flow rate, some say heaps and some say bugger all as it's just there to support the IP at high revs. Also read a few reports of front seals in the IP failing after a lift pump has been installed which then fills the sump up with diesel. Also seen examples of the seal leaking without a lift pump. So who knows?
Apparently the airbox fits without needing to move anything and will fit with a second battery in the standard position under the bonnet. Hope they're right. If I have to move stuff then I should have got the Radius panel filter box instead as I think its a bit better setup, but requires the battery, header tank and vacuum canisters to be relocated.
Theory goes that the freer the intake is, the more responsive it is and torque it generates. time will tell I guess.
Cool. Maybe the pro's can add to the thoughts of the lift pump. As if it helps with the extra at high revs without any long term, or short, damage, then im in. Low cost for extra oomf!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket55
As for the box, i was told while that the panel filter boxes do have more air flow, if they block or you somehow induce water into the air box, the filter simply folds under the suction of the motor and lets everything into the motor. Thats why a radius type filter is used. So i guess its kinda, take the good with the bad for both ways....
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I'd be keen to hear some more thoughts on the lift pumps also. The air box is what it is as it fits easily (I hope..)
Yes the fatz box will fit. 4" from snorkel to turbo is ideal and you will have a noticeable gain in response.
A lift pump is advantageous as well. Just like a turbo, all though they still work, they dont really like to make their own air. So you free up the intake and it doesnt have to work as hard as such. The injector pump is the same. For the most part when on a test bench they are given fuel from a lift pump or only have a very short distance to draw the fuel. We have quite a way to draw fuel so the pump is working to keep fuel up as well as supply it to your engine. Fitting a low psi/ high volume pump makes the pumps life a little easier and inturn you will also notice a slight gain in response. It also makes life easier when doing a service.