Just brought 08 CRD... What oil is best for it?? I used delo400 in my old girl in 3L Di.. I reckon it's too thick for CRD at 57,000kms??
Cheers
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Just brought 08 CRD... What oil is best for it?? I used delo400 in my old girl in 3L Di.. I reckon it's too thick for CRD at 57,000kms??
Cheers
Having been using Valvoline 5-40 synpower with local Nissan dealers blessing, seems to be an excellent high quality oil.
Castrol Magnatec Diesel here. Engine is much quieter now at start up compared to the Mobil junk that was used in this car prior...What Mobil was used? I dunno on that.
Hi, new to this forum, but a,m taken aback by those comments.Quote:
Originally Posted by oglenelgo
I've done used oil analysis on my ZD30 Navara, and it's pretty easy on the oil.
These are the 50,000, and 60,000 km results, each with 10,000km on the oil. Oil was Castrol Magnatec SP 5W-40 (second one had an additive, SX-Up in it).
All values in mg/l, first is this test, second last test, final the alarm.
Aluminium...5.........5.....20
Calcium....2625.....2971
Chromium....<0.1.....0.4....10
Copper.......3........4.....25
Iron.........29......51.....70
Lead.........2........1.....25
Nickel.......<1.......0......3
Phosphorus...694.....728
Silicon......14......15.....15
Sodium........4.......1.....30
Tin...........1.......2.....35
Zinc.........892.....940
FTIR to ASTM E2412
Water........0.021....0.035..0.15 (%w/w)
Soot.........0.013....0.017..0.25
Oxidation......15......13.8...50
Nitration......4.74.....7.26..25
TBN............10.6....10.28 (mg KOH/g)
Fuel Dilution...0.5.....0.5....3.5
All except silicon say that the oil could have gone 40,000 km without upset.
as to what oil to run, Nissan are emphatic on "nothing better than CF-4", which rules out nearly any proper diesel oil for the ZD30, leaving you with "petrol" engine oils to play with.
I've used
Mobil 1 0W-40 (sold as turbodiesel in Europe, as they use the ACEA ratings, not the API)...best mileage since the original factory fill.
Castrol Magnatec SP 5W-40, which gave the great Oil analysis results above.
Castrol Edge 0W-40 - bad fuel consumption
Recently Mobil 3000 5W-40, with a litre of Motul Estertech 10W-40 in it.
All seems to have worked, as here's the view down the oil hole at 100,000km on the donk.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b4...y/c0fb1716.jpg
This 100,000km change, I've switched to Supercheap Auto "Calibre" 5W-30, which is less than $50 for 5.5L. It's actually Caltex 5W-30 C-3 in a supercheap bottle, and has some pretty good approvals, predominantly ACEA specs. And the newer ZD30s spec 5W-30.
It's a very "thick" 30, having a High Temperature High Shear of over 3.5 mPas, which is the realm of 40 weights usually.
As to the older engines, Supercheap's Calibre diesel 15W-40 is actually Caltex Delo Gold Ultra, which is made using Chevron's "Isosyn" basestocks - can be run in petrol engines too, so is an absolute bargain.
Might try Atlantic Oil's 10W-30, as it meets even more specs than the Calibre 5W-30.
A great tool to check what an oil should be capable of, based on the specifications that it's approved to.
http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/.../pc/index.html
Get the relevant product data sheet from the oil companies website, plug them in, and see how it looks compared to others.
Not to be argumentative, but the xW has very precise specs, and it must meet those specs to get the cold pumping xW on it...and most of those are well below zero C.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
The 40C viscosity doesn't have anything to do with the xW spec, particularly as most people in the world never have a 40C Cold Start.
G'day my fellow off-road lounge lizards!
I use AMSOIL Full Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil in conjunction with a Franz oil bypass system. I have used this system for 11 years with my old GQ,GU 4.2 Turbo diesels, D22 Navara,D40 2.5 manual diesel Navara and currently with my 2002 4.2TD. The oil is lot more expensive, however oil change intervals is at 20,000 ks. During 20,000ks, i use a test kit to check oil every 5,000ks whilst replacing the oil bypass filter. I change main oil filter at 10,000 ks. When changing oil filters i just top up the oil that' required usually half a litre. Even at 20,000ks my oil test results still advise that the oil is OK.
The reason why i use AMSOIL is due to towing a camper trailer and boat up and down beaches and some of the serious tracks my mates and i use on the weekends at Coffs Harbour. Due to producing excessive heat under load, it is imperative to use an engine oil than can help disapate the heat and maintain engine performance. The following is a bio on AMSOIL synthetic oils;
"First of all, let's take a brief look at the history of synthetic motor oil and its introduction to the marketplace. AMSOIL Inc. developed the first synthetic motor oil to meet API service requirements. Lieutenant Colonel Albert J. Amatuzio, President and CEO of AMSOIL Inc. witnessed synthetic lubricants in action as a jet fighter squadron commander. He noted that synthetic oils were developed for (and still are used exclusively in) aircraft jet engines because of their ability to reduce friction and wear on engine parts. This preformance was due to synthetic oil having incredible ability to function dependably at severe hot and cold temps as well as to withstand rigorous and lengthy engine operation without viscosity breakdown. This is critical in aircraft engine operation because, if oil breaks down at 30,000 feet, aircraft engines can fail and ... well, you get the picture. Amatuzio decided that he would develop synthetic motor oil to be used in automobiles for the same benefits. In 1972 AMSOIL introduced the first motor oil for automotive applications. In the early seventies, another company was also working on synthetic oil development for the automobile ... Mobil Oil Company. They came to market with synthetic motor oil in 1975. By the 1990's the other major oil companies added their synthetic oils to the marketplace, in addition to their petroleum-based products.
What are the pros and cons of using synthetic oil in my car?
Pros:
•It flows easier in cold weather, therefore no loss of prime when the oil is cold. Also, it is highly resistant to viscosity breakdown (the ability of the oil to flow easily in all temps) from heat, friction, chemical contaminants.
•Longer change intervals: 7,000 - 9,000 miles between oil changes (compared to 3,000 for regular oil). Some folks have documented up to 25K miles between changes. However, I would not advice going that long!
Cons:
• Cost is twice as much as conventional oil per litre. However it lasts longer, so the actual cost increase is closer to 50 - 60 percent.
•Flows easily, therefore not recommend for use on high mileage engines; nor do I recommend using it in new engines during the break-in period because it is so slippery and dramatically limits the wearing of new mating parts within the engine. This initial wearing of parts is what makes for proper engine break-in, sealing of piston rings, mating of camshafts and lifters, etc.
Does it make my engine last longer?
Yes, because its so slippery, synthetic makes for less engine wear and thus greater engine longevity."
Like anything in life, you must research the facts. Eliminate the 80% of bullshit to help obtain the 20% of facts. the 80/20 rule.
PS, this is only my opinion!
Regards RLI
Does anyone run REDLINE oil,????
Thinks its $450 for first oil change and good for 100k
if someone ran that and didnt have a catch can imagin the crud in the oil after 100k even after doing filter every 5-10k no thanks lol
I always go Penrite or Nulon. Their websites have a good search by model and year which lists all recommended fluids for your vehicle (except beer for the driver).
Just so we are clear, The "W" Stands for "weatherly"(name of a guy) not winter. Its an American Petroleum Institute (API) standard. The Lower number in your multigrade viscosity index indicates the oil will be "NO THINNER"(in other words, always thicker than) than 15 when its COLD in a 15w-40 (Knowing that oil thins as it gets warm and thickens when it cools). The higher number means it will be no "thicker" than 40 when its HOT. The general understanding is usually that the lower number is cold start, this incorrect, if it were, then a 0w-50 Full Esther based synthetic oil would provide ZERO lubrication or atleast as much as water and we all know this aint right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shannow
Information here has been taken from Valvoline and Pennzoil training ....
Cheers Glenn
Cat DEO 15W-40 - good stuff
I use to have a Toyo-VAN, where in some places was called Toyota Tarago, and I switched from regular OIL to synthetic and I can tell you the difference was like from Hell to Heaven. I switch to my Patrol 3.0 like a year ago, and I wasn't sure which OIL to use, I started with the CASTROL multigrade 15w-40, which has been working quite ok, but from my experience with my other Car CASTROL burns fast with HIGH temp CARs like my old Toyo and like my new Patrol. I will see if I can find AMSOIL around my place ( I live in Costa Rica). Thanks for the sharing and good information.
My firewall has detected malware with lubesonline site.Quote:
Originally Posted by wogboy
I think I'm reading you correctly as saying 0w is as good as water to lubricate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lister
If not,other may think so, no offence just want to clarify.
If so m2cw, .
0w is it's ability to flow.
It does not relate to how well the oil lubricates the engine at all.
Others have sorta touched on this.
never lower than and never higher than, but in it's ability to flow only.
m2c it's all the special additives "addpacs" as the industry likes to call em, that make the difference.
And if the oil is left for to long the addpacs can wear out and protection is lost.
And then even if you run a good filter and bypass in combination addpacs still wear out.
you can even purchase bypass filters now that have slow release addpacs to extend oil's life span.
Though running these type of filters it's still recommended to test oil for addpacs, stability and contamination.
the old castrol add, " Oils anit oil sol".
there is a huge amount of info on web about oils.
here's a couple http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html.
this particular link cover alot of info the people here would like to read.
Black soot, mineral and syn it covers alot of other stuff to.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/API_gravity
cheers
@ Mega Roon Moon runs Redline oil in his extended 4.2 GU wagon.
the oil was analysed after 100k and was still at spec levels. its not for everyone,
and I believe Ron does have a catch can, service intervals are extended as well but not sure
how long between filter changes.
edit:: I use Penrite 5/40 fully synthetic very happy
Castrol Gtx Magnatec Diesel for me in coz thats what Castrol recommend. But will be changing to RX Super soon and many here use and hype about Delo400 which Castrols equivalent is Rx which I can get cheap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I feel there would be more to this than just the oil. It doesn't matter how good it is once its dirty, it's dirty. A good diesel oil keeps your engine clean while still being able to maintain its lubrication properties. To keep it in spec there would surely be extra filtration used like the franz one mentioned earlier (toilet roll style).
Delo 15w/40
I remember reading an article on this. He installed an extra aftermarket in line oil filter that cost an arm and a leg to achieve these intervals.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
What are people recommending to chuck in CRD?
About to do the 105000 service.
Previously I have always ran Penrite in my vehicles and have been happy with the performance.
I run a Franz In my GTR as a bypass and it certainly works very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
the amount of soot it captures is surprising.
Seeing RB26 motor cost about 18k , I recon its justified.
I use Delo multi 400 in the 3l
That Ron Moon Dude was changing filters regularly and sending a sample off each time. The tested sample was still good so he kept using it.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I don't know if he had any other filtration as well as or replaced the OEM filters.
Here's a link, he did have an extra dunny roll filter.
http://motoring.ninemsn.com.au/cars/...-long-life-oil
A dunny roll filter on eBay,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BYPASS-OI...item3ccf690f62
I'm a Penrite user too 15W50 Semi Synthetic, seems OK and I think an Australian company
I was recently changing the oil in my 3.0d GU4 2005 and was looking / reading a lot in the nissan manuals about it. It needs to go with "turbo diesel" oil and as far as API it depends what is the coldest and hotest temp around your area of driving. I am leaving in Poland where during winter (Jan-Feb) we can have -30C and during sommer months (Jun-Jul) it goes up to 35C ... So it is recomended to use 5W40 - and I used this time Castrol Magnatec Diesel 5W40, though it is C3 type not B3 - but same CF type so good for diesel engine with turbo. I know from these Guys (who are maintaining mostly patrols) that with Castrol GTX and with Castrol Mgnatec (both diesel with turbo) they never had issues. They told me that for 3.0 CRD there is other than CF type but I don't remember now. It is the same if not more important if you use good quality oil filter not the cheapest one from ebay... and you need to take into consideration the outer conditions as well as driver - driving style. 10k kms and 1 year is not the only time you shall chng the oil.
Rgrds,
Krzysztof
Switched to Delo 400, Can get at the Traralgon Caltex Truck stop on princess highway (20L drums), have noticed a bit more blow by in the catch can since using it, seems quiter than when I had the penrite 10-40w semi synthetic but want to change to penrite 5-40w as then it would be all penrite oils in the vehicle or really considering the Castrol RX Super, still not sure which way to go..
Thanks for post. I assume its good for non turbo engines.
Has anyone ever used or heard anything about BP Vanellus Multi-Fleet 15-40W?
I've booked in the patrol for a service at Outback 4wd in Bayswater, and after reading this thread was interested in what they recommended. As far as I can call the reason why they use it is becuase "they've got a couple large tanks out the back and it works real well"
Should I be concerned?
Cheers
http://www.bp.com/en_au/australia/pr...gine-oils.html
I run Penrite 5-40 semi syn for diesels, combined with a dose of T2Quote:
Originally Posted by SG1
every now and then I have no problems at all very happy
I used to sell Castrol a few moons ago now. I still keep in contact with the rep who's been there for donky's. RX Super is not recommended for the ZD30's but the rep was confident that I could use it. But I wasn't. So I have kept on with Magnatec Diesel 15w40. Been using that since day dot and start ups are really quiet and I catch around 150ml of oil in the catch can every 5k service. I did switch to Delo 400 a while back after reading all the hype. After using it for 3 services the motor, used a little oil, had more in the catch can and was noisy on start up. So I switched back and haven't looked back. SCA have the Magnatec on special at nearly half price every now and then on the 10L so I stock up when I can.Quote:
Originally Posted by SG1
One thing you need to remember though is, if you do switch oils, stick at it for atleast two changes, minimum. As different oils use different additives and your motor will react differently maybe to not what you like. But it may settle down, give it a go...
But I wouldn't be using RX super in a ZD30. TD42? Hell yes!
anyone use RX Rimula R4x? is it good for zd30?
Ok, so for the ZD30 its Delo 400, Penrite 5-40, or Magnatec 15-40, or Nissan oil..
Was confused as read some were running RX Super or thinking of switching to it soon/next service but have now realised they must be talking about the TD42.
Like the Delo and runs good but same found more in catch can than was expecting and used a small amount, might go the Penrite or Magnatec then, still got 500k's to decide.
I'm using Castrol Magnatec 5-30W in my GU9 CRD. I used to use Magnatec 5-40W in my YD25 Navara and it ran beautifully.
I gotta do an oil n filter change before the Aussie day meetup dunno what im gunna get now
Been using Penrite 15W-50. At $72 for 10 litres it's pricey. I had a credit balance of $32 on my Supercheap car so grabbed some yesterday at near half price, schweet.
How good are those Club Plus Card Hey? One would be mad not to have one.Quote:
Originally Posted by macca
Yeah, Ive probably scored 200 - 300 dollars easy from them.
interesting to read:
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissa...esults-239225/
was a good read lot of oil testing thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by trol3.0