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So this system is wicked.
So the weekend has been over cast as hell.. Near raining..
The cf50 is connected to the system as a freezer to cycle the system..
Its going that good even on these crappy days im thinking ill leave the 120w folding home..
Yesterday put in 10ah at around 18v..
Todays a brighter day so will see how its proformed today..
186wh produced today
Here's mine for the dayhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/05/112.jpg
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Isn't that much the same as yesterday Westy ?
Im only metering input with the watts up meter so voltage varies.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
So all though it put in "10A" it may have been from 13v up to 20v..
So by reading the watts input it doesnt matter the voltage or amperage as its the sum of both..
But yea, both days have been similar.
Only just reached a peak of 100w input threw the day, so still got a lot of headroom..
Yeah, I know what you mean.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
I have 4 x 25 watt semi flexible panels feeding a Tracer MPPT reg and that outperforms my prev 120 watt (2 x 60's) folding setup plus is 1/2 the size folded up and about 1/4 the weight.
Ended up selling the 120 watt about a year ago as I wasn't using it.
So today was a shit day lol..
97wh lol..
So im taking my portable with me lol..
Yeah quantity wins every time , the 600 watt I had on the van kept three batteries going no matter what the weather and most of the time it was only charging two anyway .
I've heard 250 watt of solar minimum per 100 amp of battery covers you on overcast days but only just and depending on usage .
Well atm the van had 200w pannel and 120ah battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
So adding my 120w gets me around the 2.5-1 ratio..
I did read 2-1 is good.. but more is better as you say..
Best bit is both are 22v pannels.. so ive set it up to run in parallel so itll be 14A @ 22v..
Yep, if all panels are the same Voc (open circuit volts) that idea will work tickety booQuote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
Well the fixed is 22v and the folding is 22.5v..Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Thats close enough yea??
Yup good enough both will essentially be 22vQuote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
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Hi Cuppa, Just purchased one of these controllers for my twin folding 80w panels. In the instructions it says to always connect to the battery first so that the controller can recognize the system voltage. Knowing not much about solar gear, does this mean every time I use the panels I need to connect the controller to the battery and then the panels to the controller? Seems at bit of a pain on a portable system with the controller mounted on the rear of a panel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
Not having personally used that specific controller myself I can't be 100% certain, but I would be very surprised if disconnecting the controller from the batteries each time is necessary. I would think that if you leave the controller connected to the batteries it would be ok if you then connect the panels to the controller using an anderson plug ...BUT .... just to be cautious I would suggest that prior to connecting the panels that you have them either covered or just laying face down so their output is restricted to 'not much at all'.Quote:
Originally Posted by bazzaboy
Just leave it connected to the batteries all the time.
You can connect/disconnect the panels as often as you like (which is sorta what happens when a cloud passes or the sun goes down).
If, for whatever reason, you do disconnect the batteries from the controller, reconnect the battery before you reconnect the panels/s.
The reason isn't actually to do with the batteries it is to do with the load voltage.
If the controller doesn't know the load is 12 volt equipment it can send overvoltages to whatever you have connected.
Depends how your controller is hooked up to your panels, but if space allows, IMO include a rated isolating switch between solar array and controller (single pole ok here). Handy for for safe PV isolation and testing panel out open circuit.
Thanks Bidja, that's exactly what I will do, permanently mount a rated water proof switch and the controller to the rear of a panel. Saves another removable connection, allows me to isolate the panels, and to connect the controller to the battery first via the Anderson connector.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
@bazzaboy when you say portable panels are you wanting to be able to connect to other vehicles or is it simply so you can move the panels around to catch the sun?Quote:
Originally Posted by bazzaboy
The best location for this regulator or any regulator for that matter is no where near the panel, mount it as close to your battery as possible. Regulators dont like heat, the sun and the back of panels are great sources of heat. By having the regulator close to battery it increases the effectiveness of the regulator and reduces the voltage drop effects.
Mine is permanently mounted in the patrol, and my panels are easily connected/disconnected via anderson plug extension lead for portability chasing the sun.
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Agree 100%... worst place for a Reg is on the Panels due to heat and voltage drop, best place is close to the Batteries as is reasonable.
Agree totally that Regs should be close as possible to the battery bank, also be mindful of the temp range and ventilation of the enclosure that is to accommodate the controller.
Good info, thank you. This has all come about due to the failure of the original controller that is connected to the rear of one of my twin folding 80w portable panels. I like this set-up as it enables me to relocate them to catch the best sun. I recently had my auxiliary battery fail while away camping. It dropped a cell reducing the battery voltage to 10volt. While checking out the battery I checked the panel's output and found it fluctuating between 7 - 16volts. Not good, and obviously faulty and possibly the cause of the battery cell failure over time.Quote:
Originally Posted by sooty_10
Taking your advice, and mounting the controller close to the battery would locate it under the bonnet, a place I thought would also be hostile for a controller due to engine heat, or are you suggesting that I locate it in the vehicle? Maybe I should make a small switchboard in the rear of my vehicle to mount the controller and run a red Anderson connector out the back for panel connection, similar to your's, might solve a lot of issues.
You state that youQuote:
Originally Posted by bazzaboy
OK, guess you checked panel outputs with array disconnected from controller. If not, good idea to check the PV array output (full sun) when isolated from the controller: open circuit voltage and the current flow with a multi meter. Then if all is good, connect your sys up. PV output specs should be on the back of panel. Note: open circuit voltage of panel will vary depending on sun exposure.Quote:
checked the panel's output and found it fluctuating between 7 - 16volts
Yeh, checked both panel outputs in isolation from the controller. All good, meets specs. I think the cheap Chinese controller just decided to "spit the dummy". I think I'll just have to get on with building a switchboard panel to mount everything on, including the new solar controller. Finding an easily accessible location has been the delay.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
IMO, it appears you have a good handle on what you are doing there, sounds good.
@bazzaboy Mounting it under the bonnet with the heat there as you stated isnt ideal, but better then in the sun under the panel (solar is usually utilised when engine isnt producing heat). Mine however is mounted up above the glove box out of weather and heat, short distance through the firewall to battery. Even mounting it in the rear somewhere like on a cargo barrier or back of drawers or anywhere in the car (usually well less than 3m cable) is closer than the back of panels with the standard 10m solar panel lead.Quote:
Originally Posted by bazzaboy
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And yeah the cheap Chinese controllers are rubbish. Mine would never work from day one on the back of the panels, always overheated and failed. Changed to the fixed 75/15 regulator in car and the fridge now runs 24/7 @ -1°. Frozen water bottles stay that way for months.
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OK. I'm going to buy one.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F252996529182
What are your thoughts on this.
Is it over kill for a 140ah battery.
Thanks.
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Dunno... what size are you getting?
Solar Panel 'size' depends more on the load rather than Battery capacity.
I see the Reg is on the back of the panels which is the worst place it can be put (but they all seem to do it) other than strapped to the Turbo.
I know nothing of these panels, but at the price are worth a gamble. How many are you getting & what size?
Treat the reg supplied as a throw away item & buy a decent reg mounted close to the battery.
An example of load (as ET suggested):
If running a fridge freezer (only) which draws around 5 amps (ie. a 60l to 80l fridge) when running you would need 2 x 120w panels for full time use, (ie. more than a weekend), or 1 x 120w for Weekend use only. Assumptions are that you have the means to charge the battery to 100% before & after the weekend & that you don't have any other form of mobile charging (ie. dc to dc, VSR or gennie).
Any other loads (lights, radio, phone charging etc etc) need to be added in & solar input adjusted accordingly. So before choosing solar panel(s) work out what your loads will be. This is important, 'cos if you just get 'a panel' which can't keep up with your usage you will destroy your battery prematurely, plus it is exceptionally frustrating when relying on something which sees you 'chasing your tail' & worrying about killing expensive batteries, not to mention the beer getting warm & the milk going off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
I was looking at the 200w.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
We are caravan park camping (unpowered) for 4 days. Power consumption will be the usual. Fridge (50l), some lights, charging some phones and gadgets. How much amps does charging a phone draw?
What I'm after is something that will put back into the battery what it has used the night before or there abouts.
I've also seen systems that use 10, 15 and 20 amp regs. What do I need.
I understand and agree with not have a huge panel. Quite happy to have the smallest one as long as it works for me.
Only other form of charging is through a redarc solenoid type or a 240v battery charger once back home.
Apologies for the delay in responsing.
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Hi jay see
Phone charging takes 3/5ths of bugger all. Lights vary considerably depending on type. Of course lots of phones add up to more. :)
50l fridge will most likely draw 3.5 to 4 amps, & if being run as a fridge & not opened too often, will run around a 50% duty cycle. 42Ah to 48Ah each 24 hours. Unless you are running a bunch of Halogen lights 50 to 60 Ah's should cover your needs over the 4 days.
A 200w panel in perfect solar conditions at this time of the year will feed around 50 to 60Ah a dainto your battery, possibly a bit more, so you should be ok, even if the weather is not perfect you should have sufficient capacity to get you through the 4 days until you can recharge the battery at home.
For longer periods I would advise greater solar capacity & looking to the future it would be a wise move to buy a regulator with sufficient capacity to cover that now, rather than having to buy another reg in the future. If you buy a good quality reg they are generally capable of operating at full capacity & often a little over (cheap ones are the opposite). I would think that 300w of panels would cover you indefinitely year round for what you have said you want to run. 300w would manage with a quality 20 amp reg.
I suggest that a 200w panel is a pretty cumbersome & heavy thing to lug in & out of the car. My preference would be to use 100w panels.
My apologies for a delay in replying too. Haven't had any phone connectivity for a few days.
Thanks Cuppa no need for an apology.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
The folding panels all seem to be the same lengths, the height is what changes and not by that much about 100mm.
I'm getting a 200w folding panel and will upgrade it as suggested. As for adding more we'll see if we needed.
There won't be any harm in adding the 20amp reg now?
Look for a good brand of regulator.
Morningstar & Victron make good affordable ones .
Better to buy a good PWM only one than a cheap MPPT.
https://www.solaronline.com.au/victr...regulator.html
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Morni...8AAOSwKQ9Z60MG
https://www.solaronline.com.au/victr...regulator.html
Bypass/remove the reg supplied on the rear of the panel.
Change the supplied cable for thicker cable. You can determine what thickness (thickness of copper core in mm2) according to length from this table. http://hobohome.com/news/?p=581
Do not scrimp on cable size! It makes a big difference.
Thanks again mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
Should be going camping next weekend, but won't have enough time to change things around. Will do it before the Easter trip tho.
Have taken all on board.
Does doesn't there need to be a fuse between the battery and the panel right? Just a regular.
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Put a fuse between the battery & the regulator, as close to the battery as possible. It's purpose is to protect the wiring from getting too hot & causing a fire in the event of a short circuit. It's rating needs to be higher than the regulator's output so a 25 amp or 30 amp one will suffice in your case. Best not to use a standard auto blade type fuse, (they can become a fire hazard themselves over time when used in this type of situation). A manual resettable circuit breaker is a good idea as it allows for disconnecting the panels too. Auto reset fuses/circuit breakers are a lousy idea as I found out recently. They can make fault finding far more difficult than it needs to be.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-2...EAAOSwoddaa~1s
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30-Amp-M...EAAOSwL5BZyiLr
No fuse required between panels & regulator.