Cheers 3dogs...
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Cheers 3dogs...
Finshed installing sound system yesturday... sounds so much better with amp subs and 6x9s in the back... also installed a 10 fuse panel up frnt under dash.. 5 constant. 5 keyd powr... makes it so much easier to wire up rocker switches/relays and power acc than running wires through firewall to battery...hopefully get some power through to these gauges if i get some time today...
Still has the hrd startn issue and high idle... do these have like a crank sensor?
Gauges are in... Just need to tap into boost n drill hole for pyro...
Attachment 55566
yes and its a biatch to get to its called a crank angle sensor.
They changed mine as the patrol was going into limp mode all the time
Love your work
Nice place right of that top gauge for a toggle switch for something
Dont you need to weld a bung for the pyro????
Looking good mate.
Keep it rolling.
Sorry if you've written it but have you changed glow plugs yet?
In the kit it comes with either a clamp fitting where you just drill hole and tightn clamp to dump pipe.. when funds permit il upgrade to 3 inch exhaust and get them to weld in the bung.. has adapter fitting so u can run either.. just not keen on taking off dump pipe to weld in bung.. too fiddly in this hot weather.. haha id rather just drill a hole.. n maybe tap it.. should work alright for nw...
Ye my mate reckn it might be the crank angle sensor.. its got to be sum little scummy sensor messn things up with the high idle and hrd starting... slowing getn there...Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
they ended up pulling half the front of my motor off to get to it.
took most of the day, but fixed the limp mode problem
We'll I took the bus out for bit of a thrash dwn the beach out 2 rocks ways.. I reckon once I sort the hrd startn and high idle I might have a half decent 4 wheel drive... Was cutting lose in only 2 wheel drive.. I can't fault it compared to my 80 except for one thing.. It has a crap turning circle... Which makes it so much harder to turn around in small spaces... So I'd dear say I'd scored me some custom bush pin stripping frm today's efferts... Hope everyone out enjoyn there long weeknd...
Hey mate, did you buy the gauges and pod as a kit or bit by bit. Also where did you get them?Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
Yea that's a down fall of unbreakable drive line.
The gu is a much nicer rig than the 80. So once you get your issues sorted I have no doubt you'll be a happy man.
ye the ups are starting to out weight the downs... as in before when i had to use to jump through the passenger door to get in.. then hit the key and no start.. i would instantly get the shits.. lol.. now doors sorted.. ice cold air-con on hot days like today.. sound system all hooked up.. boost/pyro gauges in.. all the electrical wiring cleaned up/sorted and semi easy startn when turning the key... haha slowly get there..
hi 4by4..Quote:
Originally Posted by 4bye4
got everything from flea bay.. all from different sellers...
i was going to go with red arc gauges by I'm happy i went with the autometer cobalts...
they look really trick especially at night.. they suit my blue head unit and blue lcd on my uhf... I just ordered me some blue led lights for my dash cluster and some for my in cab middle and rear dome lights.. and a led strip kit for rear barn doors... gonna make her look like a spaceship at night... haha na.. but i do think it gives the bus a new modern look that the boring old standard lights in there at the moment...
Quick qustion regarding sub tank... how does this work.. you push the sub button and does it syphoon diesel frm sub to main tank? Filled my sub tank and had only quarter in main tank.. hit sub tank button and then nxt time i jumpd in car sub tank was reading quarter empty? Is this normal? Lol
Now who's turned their frown upside down Ha Ha Ha
Theres your next big mod fit a 75 ltr AUX tank
Sub Tank empties into the main tank via a transfer pump ....Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
The transfer pump will also pump a small amount of fuel into the main tank every time you start the truck ( about 10 seconds of operation ), if the main tank isn't full.
Also, when you hit the sub tank button, it starts transferring fuel, but the gauge doesn't react straightaway .... There seems to be a small lag between fuel use and the dash gauge.....
Yes the patrols use a transfer system unlike Toyota. It has it's ups and downs.Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
The stock sub tank from memory is only 40 litres. So an 75 ltr tank is a good upgrade. Near double its capacity.
Another little nod I've done in my and is free that gets you more fuel capacity its the tank breather mod.
Simply remove the fuel pickup for the main tank. The gq is assessable threw the rear floor, not sure about the gu's.
But if you feel around the top of the tank over near the filler side you'll find a tube running about 50mm from the top of the tank.
This is the fast fill breather. Once fuel reaches this it starts coming up the filler.
So simply force this tune to the tank roof.
This will fill that air gap with fuel.
I get 115ltrs in mine. A mate can get 120... It all depends on how hard you push lol.
Haha cheers all... I guess I was use to how it works on a Toyota.. Happy days.. Ye turning that frown upside dwn realy quick...
anyone got tips for easiest way to remove turbo sheild.. open to all tips/tricks... been doing a little research.. 6 bolts and rotate clockwise? planning to remove heat shield and install my pyro into my dump pipe... then maybe finish my dawes and needle valve... might also see if i can get a bung from masters up the rd so i can weld it into my intercooler piping for boost pickup...
One of the bolts on the top of the shield - towards the back of the motor is a dummy bolt, and you don't need to undo it ....
I did have a thread about it a while ago, from when I did mine
Too easy might shoot u a pm if i get stuck..cheers mullet..
This looks like a good way to increase air flow, looks easy enough to do,,, now to source to parts
If you or Mudski could suss out sizes it would be great
Here is the thread for you .... search for this : 3 Litre CRD Heat Shield on Dump Pipe
or try this
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...d-on-Dump-Pipe
Well i went out early this morning to have a crack at removn heat shield.. bolts were rediculously tight even with a heap of wd40 sprayed over them.. managed to crack/losen 5 of the bolts.. the one at the back is rounded so my socket was just spinning.. will have to get out the dremel n cut out arnd the bolt or something.. or otherwise try smash a 11mm onto the bolt head n have a crack with that.. but i think id rather save that job for another dayy...
Very nice , gauges present well too,
late model flares will fit, just letting you know
Is that ur setup 3dogs, tidy.. in terms of better airflow.. i plan on getn a 4 inch stainless snorkle installed from either moonlight fabrication or ontrack fabrication.. 4 inch all the way to airbox then 4 inch to 3 inch silicone adapter then use hpd billet airflow lid and hdp billet maf housing.. there should be minimal air restriction with this setup.. ad mentioned by musdki he could run upto 30 pound with no limp issues... also lookn at upgrading to 3 inch exhaust.. which should also compliment all the above mods...
Its only a 3 ltr mate not a strocked 383, make it efficient by all means
but performance mods .lol, I'd be making it as light as I could and any
motor mod would be to inprove fuel consumption
It would be like two snails having a drag
Stainless does look good satin brushed
Nah not mine BTW this is mine no engine cover
Well i ended up getn heat shield out.. and original dump pipe off... had to smash the head off the rear bolt on heat shield as it was a bit too rounded off and the paper trick wasnt working... id say previous owner or someone must of tryed to have a crack at removn the heat shield and gave up after rounding the first bolt.. lol.. anyhows i decided i was gonna upgrade dump pipe since i had to order a bung for the pyro anyways... scored me a new manta dump pipe, gasket and couple bungs for 140... so welded in bung on dump pipe for pyro and welded in bung into intercooler pipe for boost pickup.. pyro workn like a treat.. my boost gauge aint working cause i accidently tossed out the fittings to go frm the nylon line to the brass fitting. Lol.. tryed to do roadkill/back yard cable tie fix but it dint wnt too play the game.. so will have a look at fixing something up tomorrow so i can get a cortect boost signal...
Quick question.. Do I have to run the hrd nylon hose for my boost gauge or can I change fitting on back of my gauge and run vac tube?
I have teflon except where I "teed" into it I used small pieces of vacuum hose
For acuracy I would use Teflon/nylon hose/tubing
My gauge is showing no boost at all.. Thought my gauge might had been faulty.. Hooked it upto my bike hand air pump and I can see the dial moving so gauge is working ok.. So must be leaking boost either out of the inter cooler or inter cooler piping.. Just removed inter cooler nw and gona check for leaks.. What's the preferred method? Tape one side dip it into water and use air pump and look for bubbles?
Pretty sure this intercooler might be stuffd..i dipd it in water i couldnt see much bubbles.. filled with water n if i turn intercooler frm.side to side i could see a little bit of the water seeping through... this would mean its got to be leaking somewhere ayy..
Chances are being an 04 model it will be leaking, tape up one side and use a bike pump to pressurise it.
you'll see the bubbles , dry with a hairdryer before installing
Cheers 3dogs.. id say shes leaking.. might have to jump online and have a look for tigged up replacement... otherwise go with that one frm the link posted up earlier.. thought if it were leaking i would at least get a couple psi through the gauge...
I dont think mrs has a hair dryer only a ghd thingy... so im just drying it out in the sun...
Quick update.. i couldnt see much bubbles if any when i was checkn intercooler for leaks but was still convinced she wad leaking.. anyhows checked everything and then noticed this fitting had no hole in it... what the? Anywayd changed it over nw im getting boost.. only thing is its saying im getn way too much... if i giv it the berrys i can get upto 25 pound.. as soon as i change gear it drops to 5-10psi... when i rev i can get upto 20.. but it normally arnd 5-10psi when im just cruising... is my gauge reading right? Shouldnt i be getn limp mode with that much boost? Wanted to get quick comparrison with boost/egt readings befor i block egr n setup dawes n needle valve...
Heres couply pics of new dump n pyro...
Still might wrap my dump pipe with some exhaust wrap to help keep temps dwn plus ive still got half a spare roll just sitting here in my garage... egt temps usually arnd 2-300 degrees...
Whats standard boost on these things? 15 pound? Full boost i can get 25psi.. is this normal?