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I have a ZD30 and want to go the same thing - got any pointers? Got a GU 3.0l TDi Y61 ZD30. Just want to remove / bypass NATS alltogether, if that's possible....Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
ha guys anyone know the part number we need to be replaced having the same troubles with mine at the moment
cheers for any help
post #28 shows the numbers on the part,dunno if it will help ya,one must be a part numberQuote:
Originally Posted by avdwhans
You mentioned the backing plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
So if we used long nose pliars to remove the security screw. Will the backing plate just then come out?
Thanks
Yes it should but I'm.not sure you will get a bit on it. Good luck though. Take pics please.Quote:
Originally Posted by drgtr
Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Will do I have chatted to my mechanic mate who is excellent with this stuff and mods so Will tackle it soon.
That and the door lock on GU that can be a potential problem
Damn these pratrols and their little idiosyncrasies!
Such strong drive trains. Great TD4t motors but its all those little other things around the car
Search spring tower braceQuote:
Originally Posted by drgtr
Thats it Im selling my GU and going back to a toyota prado 120. No problems with my last one lol
Why did you have to show me!. Sheesh
Too many Patrol problems.
Buy a TD42ti they said. It will be reliable they said.
hi guys. would this be the same on a 2007 ZD30 gu ute?
Found this infor for the zd30
When the NATS plays up in the ZD30s it normally a faulty IMMU (the part that wraps around the ignition switch and reads the chip in the key). You can easily replace this part yourself.
owever there are a few things you can check first.
- Have you tried a spare key as they have a security chip in them.
- A common fault on the Z30 is the aerial ring in the key barrel.
- Worst case scenario you should be able to get your IP modified for about $400 to solve the issue.
Hi, I am having the same NATS problem on a 1997 2.8 but the previous pics aren't my pump, heres a pic of my pump so where do I go from there i.e.which bit do I hack off.Attachment 77773
I found this Injector pump stop solenoid GO GU RD28 & TD42 on line, so do I hot wire this??Attachment 77774
Apologies for dredging up an old post but I remembered reading this recently and think it's a mod worth doing even if it's still working okay.
I took the nats off my old pump as I'm going to try get some dollhairs back out of it. I assume the unit on the pump is matched to the key and will be of no use to the next owner. Took a couple of snaps that might help clarify what's going on and what you're trying to achieve smashing bits off down in the dark.
The large black part is the bit you're trying to smash off..
Attachment 77920
Once you get in behind it there's a wire heading back to the solenoid. This needs to see +12v when the key is at the ON position.
Attachment 77921
If you cut or break the wire too short don't panic. It's a bit fiddley on the car but there's a little nut you can just attach a new wire.
Attachment 77922
I like pictures and I know this would help me. Good luck and happy smashing.
Hi Yendor
Yes mate i always use the same key, and as for little red flashing lights on top of the dash, i don't recall seeing one unless it's hidden under the dash matt, anyway i had to get the car towed home so now it's in the shed i will be able to check out the fuel system right through to eliminate that issue and look under the dash matt for red flashing lights and hope NATS is not the problem.
One other thing is where is the fuel pump and is it electrical or mechanical as i have never had to deal with any fuel problems before, come to think of it i brought the car with approx 28K on the clock (now 210K)and never had any problems what so ever in the 14 years i have had it so i cannot complain, and thanks to everyone for the suggestions now it's in the shed i can have a proper look.
Cheers
mojo.
Yendor is no longer here mate. The fuel pump is on the drivers side of the motor under the power steering pump. It sounds like your NATS mate. The pump is mechanical and a significant job to remove and refit. As you read this thread I went at mine with a wood chisel mate!!!! A Very big deal!!Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo53
There are a couple 9f other threads on the forum about the task of you have a search but fundamentally it is laid out here.
The red LED light will be under your dash mat for sure basically directly in front of the driver.
Read this thread a couple of times mate. Happy to chat.
Thanks MuddRunnerTD
I found the red flashing light, my dash matt has been on there forever and i completely forgot all about the flashing light under neath it, as yes it stays on if i am lucky to get the car started and i have two keys and tried them both with no change so it looks like i will be up for the big bash to fix my problem.
You would think someone would make an exchange pump without the bullshit on it but knowing nothing about pumps i guess it's not that easy or cheap.
Any way i will red through all these posts again and i might get the courage to attempt it.
Cheers Guys.
Good luck mate. Yes I took some balls mate. A new pump from UFI is about $2700 plus fitting.....Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo53
Well Guys
I took the big plunge and started on the injector pump this morning to get rid of the immobilizer crap and i am glad for all the information and especially the photo's from everyone who submitted them as with out them i would not have done it, and it was scary enough with all the photo's and help especially hitting a very expensive injector pump mostly hidden from view by all the clutter with a very big hammer and hoping i don't f...k up and damage something.
One item i would like to remove so i can get to the solenoid wire is highlighted in the enclosed photo i but it looks like it's some sort of adjuster and i don't really want to mess with anything that might stuff up the setting for the pump, but i cannot get a spanner onto the nut on top of the solenoid so i can replace the black wire and lengthen it to make sure i get a good clean connection, anyway the black box is gone and it's time to rebuild the mess i have made and hope for the best.
To be continued.....Attachment 83024
Job finished finally, not something i want to repeat again and the best part is it started first time so hopefully that problem is over but the red flashing light stays on when car is running not flashing as it does when it's stopped, just a steady red, has anyone else had the same indication after removing NATS from the injector pump, i was hoping it's because NATS is still lurking in the background for whatever is it controls who knows.
I would still like to know what the adjuster screw is in my previous post as i want to check the solenoid for collateral damage after all the violence that happened around it and that adjuster is blocking access to it.
Thanks to everyone for the advice and especially the photo's they were a great help.
Well done mate. Yes the red LED is now there and one forever. Put a piece of tape over it or hit it with a Black texta.
I am not bothered by the light as i have a dash mat that covers it,until this drama unfolded i had forgotten it was under there for the past 13 years.
Thanks for all the help.
I am pretty sure that is the Go Fast screw mate. If you have never had your car on a Dyno i would certainly encourage that. the potential from a stock turbo and pump is a significant improvement over factory settings without any real compromise. I would expect to see 20% power gains from a tune.Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo53
Hey Guys awesome info here I have same issue. Q has anyone been able to simulate signal from NATS ECU to CSOLU? Thinking it may save destroying CSOLU or is the CSOLU generally at fault? Cheers in advance JK
Hi all, lots of interesting info to try & sort out the same problem on my 2002 Y61 3.0L TDI. I can barely touch the plug going into the back of the I.P., above the 4 outlet pipes let alone remove it. Just above it there are 2 multi-pin plastic connectors. The right 1 is a black 8 pin plug into the main wiring loom but the left 1 is a grey 6 pin plug with a short cable going down to the inaccessible plug on the back of the I.P. Its wire colors are light blue, pink, green/yellow (visible left to right while still connected), & black, white, blue visible from left to right if you disconnect the plug & twist it 180 degrees.)Quote:
Originally Posted by Koonwarra
Any ideas if 1 of these wires is the fuel cut-off?
What do the following abbreviations mean: CSOLU, CRD, Y61(GU?), Y62, etc. I haven't found a glossary here yet.
Cheers,
Steve.
Hey mate.
In case you didn't notice, this thread and the issue is related to the TD42 engine variants with NATS.
Now I don't know IF the 3L DI and CRD models have the same sort of system... You have to make sure before and IF you go down the "hacking the system with a chisel" road...
CSOLU = The solenoid at the back of the bump being discussed here.
CRD = Common Rail Diesel - Your Patrol isn't one of them. Yours is a DI (Direct Injection). CRD 3L variants kicked in, 2007 ish???
Y61 = The GU series of Patrols. Y60 was GQ and Y62 is the new V8 petrols.
Aaaah! So simple if it is explained. I am surprised there is no glossary of abbreviations, acronyms, etc on the forum.
My 3L D.I I.P. looks like it is a Bosch but is impossible to even get the plug off the back socket without dismantling half the engine. It is nothing like the pix of the 4.2L donk, so nothing to hack or bash.
Cheers, Steve.
Gday MRTD, Will it still work if i trace the cable back cut it there and then hook the correct wire up to 12v? Or does the whole circuit board need to be removed CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD