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Hopefully it just needs the bearings nipped up and you're good to go.
Wouldnt stress too much over it, as it'll be sorted wednesday.
The up / down movement makes me agree with Mark and that a shock has failed
and your just running on springs, the shocks not controlling the rebound.
Is it possible a stone may have damaged one??
I haven't driven it since I noticed it not feeling right. But hopefully all sorted tomorrow.
As for shock, it's not so much a feeling of the car bouncing up and down on the springs, but more of a vibration in an up/down direction, only when cruising at 100km/h and up...
I've tried jumpin up and down on each corner and it feels very firm, or no different to when I first had the suspension done...
Could the bearings also make this happen? Being slightly loose and all?
Evo
It's quite possible something else aswell, but the bearings are just making it worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo
Possible slightly work bushes or rod ends.
One way to check rod ends after bearings are done is to fill them with grease, it'll rid the shakes but only for a short time. If it does rod ends are a simple thing and then a wheel alignment will be needed
Mate I had the same problem and had to remove the shims to fix it. There is a measurement of how much force it takes to move to hub so you don't put the bearings under to much load. I'll try find it for you.
Check out page 8 figure 16 on the link.
http://www.pedders.com.au/sites/defa...stallation.pdf
I tried everything and got told heaps of different story's from mechanics and this is the only thing that worked for me. Been good for 20000kms.
Thanks guys.
Left the patrol there overnight as they have been/will go over all the front end again, and they will also be checking the tyres thoroughly.
See how it goes.
Evo
Ok, so from what was explained to me, all the bearings and the swivels were rechecked and are all good, the issue is due to the tyres.
With the new wheel bearings and swivels, issues with the tyres have been more pronounced.
Also, the tyres were wearing in a certain way with the old worn setup, and now the tyres are being made to wear differently because everything is now new and tight.
Also being mud terrains, the wear difference is also going to be more pronounced and noticeable in the ride.
Have been recommended by them to keep driving normally to use these tyres up (as they have a LOT of tread left still) and then switch to an all terrain.
They have guaranteed that everything else is good.
To me the explanation makes sense, so hopefully all good.
Evo
sounds feasible to me mate, if you want to borrow some wheels and tyres that are round let me know as i have a set of at's at home as i just changed over to the muds for winter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo
Agree that tyres may be part of the issues but the rest sounds like total Bullshit to me.
Try a tyre rotation and see if it makes it better/worse
Check the wear across your tyres as well and if it is reasonably even then I call BS
What brand are the tyres?
If they are quality brand and correctly balanced I call BS
Some muddies are more prone to tyre slap than others
Tyre slap is when the centrifugal forces cause the leading edge of the each chunky block of the tread to hit the bitumen 'early' so it wears the leading edges prematurely.
Check for that as well as that can cause some weird issues as well as being bloody noisy
Might just take you up on that sometime Stropp.
They found one tyre is slightly out of round and not true on the rim, so they turned tyre on rim and balanced as best they could. Tyres all seem to be wearing very evenly, brand is Summit.
Also they said pressures weren't right, they need to be run at 40 where I didn't realise last rotation and balance they were set to 32 (different tyre place).
Pending how my back is, I might jack up the front tomorrow and try checking these wheel bearings myself again...
So the general consensus is one play is removed, tighten until the next closest hole lines up rather than slacken off to last closes hole?
Evo