Will do our absolute best Dazman, 4,700km and we’ve finally run out of road, time to turn back today and get busy [emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]
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Will do our absolute best Dazman, 4,700km and we’ve finally run out of road, time to turn back today and get busy [emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2021/08/11.jpg
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That's awesome mate. Your Ute has evolved mate. Looks greatQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
Perfect Tourer. What rooftop tent is that?
Queen’s Clam shell Brother, 240v CPAP semi-permanently equipped too thanks to @Cuppa & Mrs Tea Touring Legends Assistance [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
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fixed corning lights on the guards to come on when the blinkers are in use ,now trying to get rear wiper to work have narrowed it down i think to the brown wire !
Left it at a Caravan Park, heard some hoons thrashing saloons a few kilometres away so took a walk to investigate ……pleasant surprise [emoji322][emoji106][emoji106]
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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2021/08/90.jpg
$5 tins & $6 steak sangas, win win [emoji106][emoji106]
https://youtu.be/22xNHEjAf4c
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Removed the catch can drain hose that was just resting in the engine bayhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/08/138.jpg
and relocated another extended length into the passenger wheel arch for easier access.
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Finally installed a shower awning/tent thingy for some privacy [emoji4]
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These pricks have been more than giggling at mine, rude bastards 🥲[emoji23]
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They won't hurt ya mate, they go for snakes. But watch out for maggies, they go for worms!! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
PMSL [emoji23] Great to know thanks Plassy Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Is that how you got rid of your squirmy ring, just bent over and let the Maggies work their plucking magic [emoji1659] [emoji90][emoji23]
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Finally got around to replacing my dented rear step.
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Didn't realise how much had to be taken off just to replace the allow step.
I finally updated from my old black max air compressor (12 years old!) to something with a bit more oomph! Also took the chance to bring my tyre deflation and inflation into this millennia. And yes, there will be a couple of lockers going in at a future date.
Had to add a bit of plate to the custom cargo barrier to handle the weight of that compressor! Thing weighs like 30 kilos.
Attachment 84434
Today was the day for our Patrol's annual wash!
When you are full time 'on the road' & travelling mainly on dirt roads washing the car seems a little pointless. However we will now be staying in one place for the duration of the wet season & have no need to use it as we have a couple of quads & a Landcruiser ute to use. I also have a gerni at my disposal. Last year 'she' had a gerni wash, but this year she got special treatment - gerni and CT18. Woohoo! Gone (at least for now) is the 'Cape patina' & the old girl is looking surprisingly white again. Not showroom condition of course, that would be a tad namby pamby, to say nothing of pretentious, but definitely a lot whiter than she has looked for quite a while.
Attachment 84439
Patrol at Moreton. Tvan will get a wash once we have moved into the station homestead.
Yesterday I had the 'repair to the repair' done on the Patrol. I'd had the swivel hubs done in Weipa last week, cost was I thought a reasonable $1440, I'd thought it might be a lot more up here on the Cape, but by the time I had driven the 130kms 'home' to Moreton Telegraph Station, the passenger side swivel hub was leaking , worse than when I'd taken it in. Sent them photos & they agreed to re-do it. Went to leave at 6:30am yesterday morning but found the battery wouldn't start the car. Cleaned terminals etc- no different. Battery was cactus (about 5 years old). Tested my jump start off the Aux batteries (at the turn of a switch) for the first time ever & it worked like a charm. Swivel hubs re-done & a new battery fitted. All good now.
Finally got my patrol onto a truck for the journey back to WA, lucky I came back when I did looking at the numbers in Victoria today and I still do not have approval from SA health to drive back, I only applied for an urgent approval 5 weeks ago 😜
Updated my control box with the new WARN GS series 12v box.
Works way better than my old one!!!
Attachment 84465
What was I thinking. This is killing me. The worst instructions ever. I am making shit up as I go. I'm shooting a video to so hopefully it helps the next shmuck that has a crack. The bolt package is wrong. The instructions are literally Wrong! I have raided my supply of Metric bolts more than twice.
Bloody Rhino Bar!! Bloody Hell!
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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2021/10/89.jpg
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Picked up the patrol from the truckie and took it home to wash it as it was covered with road grime, she looks good again.
Finally fixed my bent door brackets and caved in front quarter panel today!
Opening the car door in crazy winds on the beach at Tassie took the door screaming into the front quarter panel and bent the crap out of it.
Lucky our warehouse guy is an ex panel beater so he brought in his tool of persuasiveness and fixed it.
Not perfect but 10 times better than what it was!
Attachment 84510Attachment 84509
Attachment 84525Gave the plastics a going over with Maguires , makes a huge difference
Not today….but are truly chomping at the bit too to swap my little/bigger pumpkin clearing 35’s back onto the GQ finally outa full lockdown at 18:00 Friday for some VHC highest altitude breathtaking [emoji100] [emoji3590][emoji106][emoji106]
Not kidding myself though, every Muppet & their Puppets will be out this weekend sporting KTM’s with badges and vag’s, patience is a virtue Trojan’s [emoji23][emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]
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Drove it to work.
This is how many k’s the Patrol has done since the 1st of January this year.
Including our summer trip to Omeo > Bright > Mansfield then home.
Attachment 84532
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Are you warming it up for the next few weeks ? [emoji4]Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Trying to use the old fuel in it really. Probably a bit stale by now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Fuel doctor. Stabilises it and cleans it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Plus a quick run up the high country will clean it up good and proper sometime soon. [emoji106][emoji12].
Shackles and chains come off tomorrow.
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Mounting screws for the front grill to replace the cable ties.
New alternator, 100amp.
removed the front bar and remounted winch after servicing
now I need to fix the 32-year-old wiring that is now corroding rapidly and falling apart, the copper is old, crusty and prone to snap if you look at it.
managed to snap a few plastic connectors along the way, so more work now on the list than I crossed off. sigh
Gave up for the day, made some toast.
Charged my telephony keeping warm in a SWB TB45NA Maverick via a cigarette lighter USB modification, sweet & easy rocket ship nuffy understandable dials [emoji12][emoji106][emoji106]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/10/153.jpg
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You outta power too? We’ve been out since 7am.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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Finally got my winch running again!
Turns out somehow moisture got into my Albright solenoid and destroyed it damn it.
Not sure how that happened as it’s supposed to be a sealed unit.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/10/154.jpg
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Yeah. Its fate is sealed...
I use proper electrical J boxes for any winch gear or driving light circuit breakers.
Attachment 84639[ATTACH=CONFIG]84638 new mags and toyo 285/75/16 RT tyres today, still had tread left but with how hard it is to source tyres and rising costs I bit the bullet.
Spent much of the day under the car trying to find/fix the cause of my sub tank to main tank fuel transfer system not working,
It died half way up the Old Telegraph Track. I never did trust it so had trialled emptying the 85 litre sub with a jiggler hose wen we were at home, hoping we wouldn't need to use it, but giving us a failsafe means of avoiding becoming stranded somewhere. Siphon into jerries & then siphon out of jerries into main tank. A PIA, but it worked.
At the same time the sub tank light came on the sub tank fuel gauge went to empty , when the tank was full. Found nothing whilst we were camped at Canal Creek for 3 days.
Yesterday I found one of the twin cable running from sub tank to transfer pump had been flapping about a bit & contacted the driveshaft, wearing partially through one of the two wires. Optimism rose & I cut out the damaged section & rejoined the wires with a new length. Switched on ignition & hey presto the sub tank fuel gauge went from empty to full. Taped it all up & zip tied the wires to keep them out of harms way & then re-tested. It was like I had done nothing - back to square one. Back under the car wishing I hadn't done such a good job of taping it all up. Removed tape & found three of the el cheapo ebay special spade connectors had not crimped properl due to having ultra short crimping section hidden by the insuation. Grrr. Re-did the job & triple checked the comnnections, including usining the multi meter to check continuity. Ignition on - no movement on the sub tank fuel gauge, & nothing I've ried since has changed that. Checked fuse,wiggled connections, traced wire from the tank's sender unit to the other side of the car (plastic cover over a couple of multi pin connectors roughly below the passenger door attached to the chassis) & checked continuity from there to the disconnected plug on the side of the sub tank. All good.
The sub tank warning light still comes on & the green light on the switch doesn't.
Have given up, can't think of anything else it could be other than a fault up inside the dash on a PCB. Not a job I'm going to take on.
Either it will be an auto sparky job when we eventually leave the Cape (but if things work out, that may not be for another 18 months) or I may try to bypass the car's sub tank control system & just have a manual on/off switch to operate the transfer pump. Can't imagine that would be too hard to do, but I would prefer to heve a working sub tank fuel gauge before i do that.
If anyone has any further thoughts as to what I could check I'm all ears. And yes I have disconnected the battery (multiple times). Prior to the system failing the sub tank gauge had for some time been showing about 3/4 full when it was 100% ful(?? consistent with the pump wire rubbing on the driveshaft, & wearing it away, & the sub tank lighr commomly came on if I overfilled both tanks. The latter had always been rectified by disconnecting the battery for a while once we had used a bit of fuel - a pain because disconnecting the battery would reset the trip counters. The fuel gauge not working at all was new. For the life of me I cannot understand why it worked again briefly after I repaired the transfer pump power cables. It did at least suggest to me that the fault wasnt at the sender unit in the tank end.
I used to think the designer of two hard to reach horizontal oil filters should have been given a good kicking, but now whoever thought this stupid sub tank sstem was a good idea should have been committed to an institution for the insane!
Geez & double geez!
Possibly shorted out the transfer pump. I have heard of this issue over the years, from memory, some just installed an aftermarket pump and wired it in. How long did you disconnect the battery for? Just reading on the interwebs someone had to leave it disconnected for an hour for it to work.
The sub tank sender units do have a level switch so when the tank is empty it will shut off the transfer pump? Might be a dodgy sender unit?
Shorted out transfer pump sounds like a possibility. Can thy short out internally? Whilst up on the Tele Track one thing I tried was running 12v direct from battery to pump. It ran, but far more slowly than I recall hearing running in the past.
Can anyone suggest any further tests I could try to determine whether the pump has or is turning it's toes up?
Can anyone point me to a suitable transfer pump which will fit into the same space to keep things nice & simple.
Try this @Cuppa
Pulling fuse #24 worked to reset the sub tank warning light. It also resets the odometer, which I was hoping to avoid, but it's certainly easier than removing the negative battery cable.
From this thread "fuel system": http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=46132
This would allow me to reset the warning light, push the switch and have the green light come on and the pump work for 15mins to 1hr.
I haven't invested the time to try to fix mine, so the warning light is still on and I'm not using my sub tank, but I certainly don't need it like you do!
Had the battery disconnected overnight & have also tried the removing the 7.5A fuse as per the thread you linked too. No difference. Am thinking now it more likely to be the sub tank sender which is the problem. If so it will have to wait. I'm not up to dropping the fuel tank myself. Once all the pain & discomfort from my recent time under the car has faded away I might try hooking up the transfer pump direct to a 12v source & try pumping into a container just because it is reasonably accessible & to tell me whether it is working properly with a reasonable flow rate. The fact that it sounded like it was running slower than usual out on the track may have been due to the, at the time unseen, partially severed wire.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cremulator
This control box thingo is well out of my comfort zone (& understanding), but I cant see why a failed or failing pump would cause the sub tank fuel gauge to not register anything, but I suppose anything is possible....... even a coincidence of 3 things 1. Failed or failing transfer pump 2. Failed sub tank sender unit 3. Damage (now repaired) to transfer pump wires.
One thing keeps going around in my head. When I repaired the transfer pump damaged wires the sub tank fuel gauge worked - but only once. After switching off the ignition & back on again I have been back to sub tank warning light & no fuel gauge. Seems inconsistent with a failed sub tank sender unit...... but??
Is there any way of diagnosing the sub tank sender unit without removing, & replacing/substituting? If not is sub tank removal on a Cab chassis a big job (or not) for a well equipped workshop? It's tempting to bypass the control box with a simple on/off switched transfer pump, but I need to be able to watch a gauge if I were going to do this.
Come back Yendor! (For those who didn't know him - he was the best auto electrical resource imaginable , on this forum - offering step by step diagnosis on all things to do with Patrol electrics).
Yes @Yendor aka Rodney was, well still is, a god at this stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
To rule out the pump, can you "hard wire" power to the pump to see if its working? Then atleast you know if its the pump or something else. use some twin core wire direct from the battery and to the pump...
@Cuppa
Could this be the switch itself in the cab?
I recall @the evil twin once talking about the switch being a culprit in many sub-tank issues.
Dust/moisture compounded cement like overload in my beloved very first 2000 GU leafy work ute sub tank dash switch was the culprit. Apologies if I haven’t read properly symptoms above but many early working GU’s I’ve known too also changed to aftermarket manual ON/OFF pump switches which unfortunately do take highway concentration to turn off again when visually transferred but faithful +\-
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.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Anything is possible. Could be more than one problem? I have decided that the first priority is to get the sub tank fuel gauge working again. Could be some time before that happens though - no auto sparkies around here - might have to wait until the end of the Wet. Rains have started. Can manage with a single tank for the time being.
Finished fitting two new rear cameras & a monitor today. The old ones had become unreliable after almost 10 years & lots of corrugations. Fitted a 30 degree rear vision camera for driving (https://www.nassecurity.com.au/30-vi...-r-cs212w.html & a tiny 170 degree one (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183696421838) pointed at the tow hitch to assist with hitching up. A new 'mirror monitor' made up the package.
One job left to do (excluding the subtank issue - arthritis makes under car work increasingly difficult). After 10 years of use our hot water system has developed a leak, cause is a lime scale build from all the outback 'hard' water in the tempering valve assembly. Replacement on it's way, hopefully on this Wednesday's mail plane. A messy job which will be good to get out of the way. We got by for a couple of months by bypassing the hot water system, but Mrstea does like having hot water. After that the car will be stored on (relatively) high ground to hopefully avoid the flooding when the Wenlock breaks it's banks.
This is where we are. On the northern bank of the Wenlock, just the two of us at Moreton Telegraph Station.
Attachment 84647
Changed the transmission filter
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You can fix that calcium buildup easily with descaler (as used to descale kitchen kettles etc). The valve will almost certainly be perfect except for that buildup hindering its operation. I have done this on domestic hot water systems a couple of times.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa