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My own quick google search showed that "ocam" are doing their own GQ towing mirrors.
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I LOVE This Forum, Cheers Chrisso Mate!!!!
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Have you seen the latest design Clearviews? Not sure if I like them. But they don’t sit out as far as the first Gen mirrors when not extended, and apparently go further out when extended.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
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Unfortunately I haven’t yet Mudski Mate!Excited potential though, linky any chance for a GQ Grandpa Plodder Modification [emoji120][emoji123][emoji106]
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Yeah they look heaps better I reckonQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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https://www.clearviewaccessories.com...owing-mirrors/Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
You could make the 79 series mirrors work but if it were me I would just buy the purpose made and designed ocam versions. They weren't available when I did mine.
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Plenty of knockoff Clearview copies on eBay, I bought a set for $249. Bolt straight on and plug straight into the wiring harness.
Great vision and don’t shudder when an oncoming BDouble passes you on a country road. Easy to fold in flat for tight spots.
I used the knock offs as well. They are great now but I did have to go through 3 sets to get a good one. The others would blow in when driving at highway speeds.Quote:
Originally Posted by jack
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Bloody union turned up....down tools son, 35C and climbing, too hot for tin shed welding [emoji23]
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Brackets should be strong enough, would’ve been a shipload easier just welding tapped plates to the chassis but trying to keep away from having to pay an engineer to sign off [emoji1696][emoji120]
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Made a 5mm polycarb cover for the solar panel so I dont mickhead it when I put a canoe or other stuff on the roof rack 🤪😀Attachment 82829
Nice. Can you make one for me now? [emoji3] I’ve had a 100w panel on my rack for probably 4 years now and have managed not to break it. Even with firewood being thrown on top.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickhead
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Wow looks really nicely done [emoji108][emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickhead
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Tacked the first gullwing thingy deflection piece into place for the wider KM2’s getting pinched off the GU ute.
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Happy I’ll still have a flat/level traction pad footing area for climbing up onto the back of the GQ ute now.
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Strengthening ribs (oil storage baffles) are next on the agenda, they’re getting heavier day by day, @PeeBee you’d be proud of me growing GVM here Mate! [emoji23]
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Very impressive @MB, looks quite robust and a great profile idea to give that glancing function. Can't wrap my mind around the oil reservoir or storage area just yet - are the oil containers to slide inside the 150x40 RHS or be a boxy compartment on the rails but outside the line of carnage? Just need the electric fence installed to keep that brute off the side panels and you are totally ready!! You are chasing 3940 for the win.
Cheers Philstar Mate!
I’m over carrying this big cumbersome greasy 10L emergency sump jug taking up too much space in the toolbox.
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Wacky concept is to carry in the baffled 150x50 RHS sliders moving forward.
Wrong bolts pictured below but hopefully gives the wacky idea.
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Rough calculations should be able to carry 11L of TD42 sump oil on the drivers side main slider & the same volume of gear oil on the passengers side.
Haven’t calculated the wings each side yet but should hopefully fit enough full concentrate radiator coolant shared between both wings to mix up 50/50 from my water jerry cans if in an unfortunate radiator dump damage situation [emoji51]
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You are one crazy MoFo MB. It is a brilliant idea though.
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Not really my idea though Chrisso Mate, have watched way too many episodes of ‘Narcos’ on ‘Netflix’ lately [emoji12]
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So, how does it get into the engine or diff or radiator without a container, that it comes in one to begin with? Are you looking at a coke bottle or something to fill and transfer? Clever use of typically dead space, have heard comp trucks using rollbars for air reservoirs but not this idea. Very little chance of leaks also based on your construction. Good one.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
There’s always more than one way to skin a feral cat Mate [emoji23]
The MB 2000 series have various applications:
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Diff oil funnel tube is great over winter when shits thick dribbling, may not work so well on your rear diff wagon, utes....front <>back = sweet [emoji106][emoji106]
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Decided tonight to go back to the old ‘K.I.S.S’ methodology for reliability on this GQ build:
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100psi onboard adjustable on-air coil replacement bellows have served the Fat GU Beast very well with instant anti-tree leaning damage saving over the years [emoji23]
Back to 60psi potential Kevlar socked inner coil bags this time around and a shipload less piping/leakage worries needed too[emoji106][emoji106]
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Won’t be as soft/comfy but it’s all relative to a pre-millennium GQ [emoji23]
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Is that gauge a permanent fixture?Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
That was the wacky plan to be able to check coil bags psi each side without a tyre gauge. Any recommendations for a decent pair of bullet proof outdoor gauges Mate?
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Yeah I was gonna say mate. That gauge will last 5 minutes. Then you'll have no air. If it were me. Get some decent steel braided air lines made up to fit where the gauge is sitting in your pic. Then either run the new line up to a gauge out of the way, or plumb it into a gauge in the cab. The latter is what I would do, then you can keep an eye on the gauge whilst surfing the whoopdies of the VHC.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Cheers Mate! Have to agree it was great fun watching the heavy GU utes full on-air bellow gauges incab on the whoopdies [emoji23] [emoji106]
Quite handy too for chassis protection as you could really visualise the strain she was going through sometimes witnessed massive 60-100psi fluctuations side to side out there fully loaded.
Should be ok this time around as the little GQ has been weighed up for some Dobinson rear variable coils of 50mm lift and a 200kg constant load rating with the inner coil bags only as ride levelling backup this time around.
Shouldn’t need to watch the gauges so fiercely and they’ll hopefully run below 5psi most times unless highway towing or a quick external top up if hauling firewood back to camp out there [emoji1696][emoji106]
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@MB, the air lines are imperial, 1/4" from memory, not as readily avail as the metric stuff and from experience 4 times the price. I would get a 6m length and a couple of in-line joiners as well.(let me know if you cannot get the joiners as I have a few here you can grab.)I run my airbags inside 3/8 clear/reinforced airline as well. The gauges have never worked for me in-cabin as the bend radiuses to the gauge and from the air bags, plus the flexing, I found the hoses came loose and leaked over time behind the gauge. I think if I go this way in the future I will go this electronic gauges instead of the mechanical. Regards the location and use of that gauge, look, if you protect it it and maybe relocate it out of any line of fire or foot thumping, tree bashing, it will be fine. Focus for me would be the bending of the airline and as @mudski suggests a hose will be better than a plastic line, but saying that, there are 100,000's of air locker installations out there running 5mm airline in very severe locations without issue i would say. Protec the line and the gauge and the little cheapie will do the job - they are an industrial application gauge and you don't need oil filled for this application, and accuracy is not a priority. Vehicle is coming along well it looks, going to be well set up for the battle.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Do you really need in cab gauges for airbags? Thought you said KISS
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Must’ve misled youz with my dribble again, definitely not putting in cab gauges in again, trying to keep inside as OEM as possible too, no pillar pod this time etc....
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FWIW: Have had 30psi max inner coil bags in the family GU wagon for years towing varying weight lunging forward horses and many a half gnarly off-road adventure shared too.
Was a most simple KISS wagon standard install with the two rear air valves routed up to each underside of the steel Kaymar rear bar.
It only ever had one failure on the rear left plastic line down on Climies Track Tasmania where the exhaust was kindly redirected upwards and burnt through a loose line [emoji51]
Pain the arse well protected valve location though as you have to climb underneath to check how things are going.
FWIW-2: Amazing how much airbags psi changes throughout even a short weekend in the high country areas ranging from 140m - 1,400m ASL trekking [emoji106]
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Thanks again for the lead Chrisso Legend!Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Spoke to a lovely young helpful lady at Ocam late last week and today....free delivery to work as I was in no rush [emoji106][emoji106]
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First impressions so far, they appear extremely well heavy cast, certainly a stronger contour mounting design from the old farm spec mirrors I was truly worried about peeling the door panel open if ever clipped.
Bottom holes unfortunately didn’t line up, no big problem and no doubt the old farm doors issue and not Ocam’s.
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Again not Ocam’s design problem but I will deliberately look to voiding my warranty by delving deep inside their folding mechanism to hopefully achieve an easy extra 10-15 degrees off their OEM bump stops for gnarlier track needs/wants [emoji23]
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Standard driving position is an incredibly strong ‘lock/click’ can honestly say I’ve never passed a Road Train wild enough to flop these rippers back IMHO[emoji106][emoji106]
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You could keep it simple from a plumbing point of view and use a cheap tpms as an in cab gauge for your airbags. No lines required just give the tpms reciever unit ignition power.
Absolutely love that idea thanks Mat Mate!
I did have to look up the Tyre Pressure Monitoring System acronym at first I must admit [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
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good to see you in the pages mate. Yes i agree, i did think that the other day MB when you first posted. as long as you can get the TPM into the line then it would be simple enough. I assume you are not looking to pump up or adjust on the fly then it is basic. Would not be that hard either way though surely.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Certainly not wanting/needing to pump up on the fly again GQ this time Daz Mate!
Since Mat’s simply brilliant intervention I’ll kindly ask Phil’s team at the 4WD Shed if they can position the standard valves either side roughly off my nuffy slider top tray 45 degree brackets.
TPMS caps on there after and all should be stealthy sweet indoors thanks please orificer [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
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Took the truck down to Dobinsons for new rear springs 2 weeks ago and on the way down the water detector light flickered, and when coming home it was running rough at idle. Decided to swap out the two filters in the fuel line. So, got them out and replaced in about an hour,(no water evident, fuel clean and clear) then 7 hrs later got the truck running. Would not start, cranked but no go. So started at the lift pump and up to the IP, and out the other side to the fuel return line at the tank. There was a blockage of some sort. Long story short, the IP solenoid valve 12V supply was flickering then dropped to zero. Checked fuse on the main engine control circuit, all good - one of them powers the solenoid. Anyway, ran a 12V jumper from the battery POS to the solenoid and off she fired. . Initially I thought I had a fuel line kink or similar, but at least I know for sure the hoses are kink free. So, happy to some degree at least it isn't something major, but now more electrical tracing to sort this one out. I head back to the mine Wed morning so for now the problem can sit until i get back.
Also bought one of the bent adjust rear diff control arms to get a bit of clearance over the belly tank - might throw that in tomorrow as a reward for todays jink around.
Electrical gremlins are fun hey Phil...Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I am well used to them as generally I generate them! This one however looks like something in the Brunswick loom splice. i will think it thru - either leave it like it is with a simple jumper, or dig into it and resolve. If i don't fix it, the turbo timer won't work, and its probably not roadworthy either as I can't turn it off with the key? Its got to be simple, just well hidden at the moment and my mind is not in the space to sort it right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Decided to inspect the old highway GQ’s snorkel and entire air intake system for potential water intake on future river crossings.
Bloody glad I did, the stupid snorkel design doesn’t even connect to the OEM dust catcher guard thingy.
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Wasn’t impressed either with the amount of daylight that can be seen through almost every joint on the whole OEM airbox.
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Bugger it all off I decided and got to grinding off the plastic snorkel flange and blasted a hole big enough for a 4” elbow to pass through.
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Shifted and rerouted the vacuum system back towards the firewall and re bolted the radiator overflow bottle rearwards back into the OEM vacuum position.
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Ratting through my pile of shed junk found the old whopping Donaldson cannister filter from the 6.5 Chev GU original purchase days before its Millweld upgrades.
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Should hopefully do the trick and only cost 2 x new silicone elbows to the little Safari turbo below and a 180 degree silicone bend, all other bits were hoarded perfectly over the years [emoji23][emoji106]
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Is there enough room to take the lid off the new air housing to inspect the element?
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Heaps thanks for double checking Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Did stress myself to near death all afternoon though testing/testing exactly that [emoji23]
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Bugger @MB, I sent all those air filter elements back to BD with the junk from the vee belt to serpy conversion on the basis neither of us would need that size again. Just hate that! I guess it was a fair swap for an IP though!!!